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Trigger Pull On A Para P16.40 Limited


Norwegian Viking

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The stock Parts (hammer/sear) parts are junk according to most gunsmiths.

But you can get the pull down to about 3# by expertly tweaking the sear spring.

I about to install a new hammer and sear along with the series 80 to 70 conversion shim in my P14.

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Take out all of the junk that came with the gun and buy a quality hammer, sear, and disconnector set. I used a Nowlin speed demon set and put in the series 80 to 70 shim like TDean mentioned. Add a 19# mainspring and a new searspring and your done, almost. Next you have to move the trigger backwards to take up the slop of the series 80 safety and shorten the grip safety. All of that makes a huge difference in the trigger pull.

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BTW-If you drop to a lower weight hammer spring, don't go below 19#. I went to 15# and had 5% of the rounds not go boom. The primers need a pretty good hit to reliably ignite every time. 17# works most of the time. I switched back to a 19# and all rounds go off every time.

Good luck,

Kirk

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I have two P16's with 2ish pound triggers. Both have stock para parts including the plastic triggers. My local smith does trigger jobs for 35 bucks so I got the work done and told myself I would change parts if they started to wear out. That was two years ago and lots of rds/dry fire later. Both are still crisp, safe and working great.

I think I have #17 main springs. Don't remember a huge difference in felt trigger pull when I lowered the main spring lbs only. I did replace the plastic mainspring housing with stainless S&A magwell/housing parts. Seems like I read somewhere that the plastic ones can flex giving inconsistant trigger pull.

Changing the internal parts in a para before a trigger job is pretty common, but in my experience it's more by shooters choice than necessity.

[hopfully helpful thread drift mode on]

I would suggest replacing the para ejector, extractor, firing pin stop and firing pin spring. I broke those pretty quick in both blasters.

[hopfully helpful thread drift mode off]

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Guest Larry Cazes

Don't know about the Wilson parts but I too went with the nowlin Commander hammer,sear,disconnect set and am very happy with it. I also replaced the mainspring with a 19lb ISMI and fit an STI trigger. The factory parts are junk in my opinion. The sides of the hammer were not even relieved and they were rubbing on the frame.

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Check Dawson Precision, they have a couple of trigger/spring/sear combinations for a Para depending on the trigger pull you desire. I had Dawson install the competition setup in my P16 with a Koening hammer. I have a 17 pound mainspring, and have yet to have any misfire. My trigger pull is 2.75.

Some fellow shooter have gone to 15# mainspring with an extended firing pin to get sub 2# triggers. My new parts for a sub 2# are on the way. I do have the stock trigger.

Cameron

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Viking,

My experience is very similar to 3/4time. My factory P16.40 still has all its stock parts (except for replacing a broken ejector). After a break in period, I had a local smith clean up the trigger. Trigger pull came in at 2.5 - 2.75 and has been that way since. I have around 15000 rds thru gun, runs 100%, heck I've never even replaced any of the springs in it.

Just my .02 worth, have a local smith clean up the trigger for around $35 and run with that for a while and see how you like it before you go spending more for extra parts. Then if you later decide to go with new parts, you can keep your smith'ed factory parts as back-up (because you know they fit and work if you need them in an emergency).

Best of Luck,

Tyro

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The sear and the hammer should fit fine. The 1911 parts that won't fit in a Para are the widebody pieces such as the trigger, mag release, magwell, & grip panels. Para also uses thier own sight dovetails that a standard Bomar will not fit in.

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I suppose if the disconnector doesn't have a smooth channel to ride in or the trigger bow and areas where it contacts the sear are not smooth then the trigger pull weight will also suffer. I've used many different brands of disconnector and so far none has failed me except for a surplus type that was very out of spec. The best I've used is the C&S polished, a little bit pricey but the quality is worthed. josh

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The main problem with a Para and the disconector is the area of the bottom of the breechface. Para does not radius this corner to allow smooth movement of the slide. Take a file and a few swipes at that corner and put a nice radius on it, and then polish the corner up. Now the slide will cycle smoother.

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Excellent parts choice! I have had great success with the triglide parts in my SV .40.

BTW, I had a chance to fire a recently made S S Para P16 the other night & in my opinion, it is a fine limited tool that, even in box-stock trim, shoots 90, maybe 95% as well as my SV at less than 1/2 the cost. I am still a proponent of bull barrels & I even run a tungsten guide rod, but the Para shot better than I expected.

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I've been very happy with my new Para P40-16 Limited Dawson-Jarrett. It has Dawson's optional Cyliner & Slide innards, Koening (sp?) hammer, STI (for looks) hammer and the Dawson Ice Magwell. I guess if I ever get stuck in Master and can't seem to break into GM I might get a SVI but............. I'm not worried about that :D

I get a very high grip and it's a 'real shooting machine' ;)

Steve

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Am i correct in understanding that you put an SVI tri glide system in a P16-40? If so, I would like to know which trigger you used and how it fits? I have heard that the tri glide will not fit in a para body, but if you've gotten a way to make it work, i'd like to know. Thanks

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I also have a P16 with Wilson A-2 sear and ultralight hammer. The disconnector used is Caspian. My gunsmith worked on the trigger and got it to a little less than 2 lbs. My question is if i change to a 17lb mainspring will it change the trigger pull weight? I'm not sure about the current mainspring weight i have on my Para now, i believe it is still stock.

Thanks.

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