Cylinder release return spring

[RevolverJockey]

When my cylinder is open, there is nothing pushing the release toward the muzzle. I can actually dryfire with the cylinder open. Am I missing a spring? It doesn't appear to be hurting anything, but I am sure it is not right. I have a 610 with a Hogue release if any of that matters. Thanks in advance.

Lee

[RePete]

There should be a bolt plunger spring there.

[Carmoney]

It's a superfluous part. You want zero forward tension on the bolt, it should not be pushing on the centerpin significantly or it will impede cylinder rotation (to at least some extent).

I used to remove the little spring and plunger altogether. Now I generally cut the spring down and leave them in, just to prevent it from rattling around when the cylinder is open.

Don't worry about it.

[snertley]

I got a bag of parts back from Mike with my gun (610) and no I dont have one in my gun and it runs like a champ.

[adweisbe]

I leave it in. I don't think it's necessary but it is one less thing to rattle and the pedantic software engineer in me can't help but think it was put in there for a purpose even if I don't know what that purpose is.

I have one gun that I took it out from and I haven't taken the side plate off since so it hasn't gone back in. That gun runs fine as well and I used it at matches for a few months.

Edited August 25, 2010 by adweisbe

[BE Fred]

I cut two coils off of this spring, when I do an action job.

[Toolguy]

That spring is weak and doesn't cause cylinder drag. What does cause the cylinder to drag is the stronger spring on the center pin that pushes backward towards the hammer. It's pushing on the front end of the cylinder release assembly, and pushing the cylinder tight up against the back end of the crane. The way to fix this is to file some off of the thumb latch so it can go more to the rear, thus taking the pressure off the center pin. Alternately, you can file or mill the slot in the frame further back to let the thumb latch go back more or make the center pin shorter on the end where it goes into the hole next to the hand. I do not shorten the center pin. What you want is for there to be a little space so when the cylinder is closed, the thumb latch can be pulled backwards just a little bit more. This creates a neutral situation where the cylinder is free to spin without being pushed hard against the back of the crane.

[BE Fred]

Toolguy,

I believe the spring they are talking about is the one you describe. I also file the bolt release at the rear and cut off two coils of this spring.

The above is part of a Jerry Michulic (sorry for the spelling) trigger job. I incorperate his method with a few others on my trigger work.

Fred

[Toolguy]

When my cylinder is open, there is nothing pushing the release toward the muzzle. I can actually dryfire with the cylinder open. Am I missing a spring? It doesn't appear to be hurting anything, but I am sure it is not right. I have a 610 with a Hogue release if any of that matters. Thanks in advance.

Lee

It looked to me like the subject was the spring and plunger that pushes the thumblatch forward.