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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

BE Fred

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Everything posted by BE Fred

  1. Hello, I have a new M&P Core full size 9mm, gun came with two mags. Also have an "old" full size 9mm M&P which also hase two mags. The old mags work in new core but do not hold open slide on empty. Is there a way to modify? I do not see a difference but have not busted out the dial calipers...this is likely a common problem with a common fix (I hope). Thanks in advance for any thoughts and suggestions. Fred
  2. I used the original Burris FF. If the FF3 has the click adjustments, it may merit can other look. Thanks for the heads up!
  3. Well, I learned that sight will ship aprox. June 12! No wonder nobody has a comment.....nobody has one!
  4. Yes, I also really like my full size eotech on my ar-9. What attracts me to the Mini Red Dot Sight (mrds) is the click adjustments on windage and elevation...This is the first little heads up sight I have seen to have this. I did order mrds from eotech. My new M&P CORE came with a coupoun for the discount price...it expired 4/15/2013, so if anybody gets one better rush if you want to take advantage of this seeminly good price ($335 shipped). Fred
  5. Anyone have an EO Tech, MRDS sight? I have a S&W M&P 9mm CORE, it came with a half off coupon for an EO Tech MRDS sight. If anyone has pros/cons on this product please advise. Thanks, Fred
  6. Anyone have an EO Tech, MRDS sight? I have a S&W M&P 9mm CORE, it came with a half off coupon for an EO Tech MRDS sight. If anyone has pros/cons on this product please advise. Thanks, Fred
  7. I am just wanting some clarification...I do not need to swage non military brass correct? Once I get my small rifle case feeder plate I will begin loading 223, I have about 4k of RP, Fed, and Winchester, so I believe I will not need a swager? I like the backboard!
  8. I purchased a wrench off of ebay a couple years ago. It was made of aluminum and produced on a CNC machine. It was great until it broke. Now I notice someone is making the same wrench in steel...but it is about $28 bucks plus freight! Still it did work nice. Below is a picture of wrench currently on one of the auction sites, "I have no dog in this race".
  9. I also think that if the press works well, let it. That being said, if I am loading for national matches, I go over all rounds with hand primer. I also use a test gauge. It may not need the extra effort...it is a mental thing. Shooting is 95 % mental and the rest is in your head! If it help your mental game do it.
  10. My current reloading arsenal is: 2 Dillon 650 (1 small primer, 1 large). 1 RCBS Rockchucker (had this from the beginning, but no longer use it) 1 Redding T-7 I do load 223 on the 650 All other rifle is on the T-7, it is a great machine. My T-7 press gets all the rifle work, which is primarily hunting rounds. As well it gets the odd ball stuff, that I do not load enough to justify the caliber conversions, tool heads to bother with the 650. Universal decaping is on the T-7 also. I do have a second turret head, just got it and will be using it this winter. Shadowrider mentioned a station for a Grx....what is a Grx, I don't know what it is but I am pretty sure I will want one! Reloading does not save money, but you will shoot much more. Fred
  11. A commercial reloader I know recommended this: Mink oil. It is a paste...rub a small amount on one hand and work the brass in a 1 gal bucket, two hands for a 5 gallon bucket. It does not take much and works VERY VERY well. I had a bad experience with a pump spray bottle of Dillon lube...I sprayed brass and then loaded too soon result was contaminated powder and apparent squib loads. This experience was not dangerous just irritating. The mink oil is all I use now. My second choice would be the Hornady spray
  12. I should read these post more frequently. Came up with the same conclusion on my own a few days ago. Removed the bottom washer on both my machines and wire fits much better and no more occasional bind. Fewer parts making it better...go figure.
  13. Incidently, now that I have my new tool head stands made I have the old ones listed in the classified of this forum. Fred
  14. blujax01, The base (what the 650 tool head would rest on) is 1.14 inches tall and 1.0 inches in diamiter. The next shoulder is .75 inches in diameter and is .5 inches tall. The top shoulder (not sure what this is for perhaps the 550 tool head?) is .554 in diameter and .5 inches tall. These measurements are from measuring only one toolhead using dial calibers...ymmv Hope this helps, Fred
  15. My 650 has loaded many 10s of thousands of 38 special "race" loads for my PPC/Bianchi race gun. I have never had a problem with "high" primers. If you do your part and follow thru with upstroke. My 686 is a 5-1/2 pound pull...if you have one of the skelitonized hammers and a lighter pull your milage may vary. My powder of choice (for my 38 load) is HP38 or W231 and powder checker has never been a problem. I uses Tite group for some other loads I do and have never had any trouble with it either. I only use federal primers for this load. I can comfortably load 800 rounds an hour if primer tubes are loaded in advance. hth Fred
  16. I have had it in backwards.. been there, dun that, bought the tee shirt.
  17. Well I am finally getting around to posting pictures of my tool head shelf. My reloading room is nearly done...done enough to use it anyway.
  18. Joking aside...I have my bench at 39 inchs and this works for me, standing with the strong mount. I plan to pick up the Craftsman shop stool (adjustable with back) next time they are on sale...sometimes I would like to sit. Fred
  19. Thanks, I ordered a tongue and groove bit set. It will cut a 1/4 inch wide and 1/2 inch deep slot. Yes a minor adjustment will be needed and a second pass to get proper width, no problem. The depth will be too deep but it will not cause any problem. I read that a 50 bmg case with primer drilled out and screwed to bench will work as a toolhead holder. This would be cool but I still prefer racks on the wall and all the heads off the bench. Perhaps when my project is done I will learn myself how to post pics. Regards, Fred
  20. latech15 Thanks for reply. I have two bearing sizes and with the larger it appears that it will result in a 1/2 inch groove. It will work fine...but I can be a little anal. My current toolheads take up too much bench space and the plan is to put them on the wall above bench. Plus it looks cool. When I get my new relo room finished I will be selling a few tool head stands. Now that I have 50 posts I can use the classifieds on this forum. Fred
  21. glynnm45, I am finally getting back to this project. I have a nice peice of 5/4 stock and made a test cut...no trouble with jig saw but when I dusted off the router and opened up my box of bits I found nothing that would make the groove cut. Did you use the groover of a tongue and groove bit set? Did you need to make two passes? The only groovers I have found will make a 1/2 inch deep groove. Looking at your project this may be what you used. Do you think it would work if several layers of electric tape was wrapped around bearing on router bit to space it out resulting in a shallower groove? Once again thanks for your help. Fred
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