Step on activator

[jmorris]

I was at the shop yesterday and went to build a few but didn’t have a photo on my memory card and a search here came up with nothing also. Pretty simple but a photo is always nice and now I know where to find one.

I know there are many different variations so if you have photos of how they work please post them.

[Pat Miles]

The activators my club uses have two activator rods so two props can be released if wanted. The second is on the opposite side of the frame from where yours is pictured. The cover is a two piece affair where both pieces of plywood come together centered over the push down releases so stepping on either the front or back portion of the cover releases both activators. The cover halves are hinged on the front and back of the frame which would be the lower right and upper left sides of the activator you have pictured.

[latech15]

What are the chances if getting some more pics or maybe even a video that shows how this works. I just don't get it from the picture provided. We are building targets this weekend and I would love to whip one of these out as well.

[raz-0]

What are the chances if getting some more pics or maybe even a video that shows how this works.  I just don't get it from the picture provided.  We are building targets this weekend and I would love to whip one of these out as well.

Looks like the little blue lever is the trigger, and there is a hinged piece of plywood that is what you step on. It's folded back in the pic. The activating rod is cocked and under spring tension. Push the little blue lever, the rod is released, and gets pulled in by the spring. 

That's my guess anyway.

[latech15]

Yeah, I get that much, I guess I should have been more specific. How does the lever release the spring loaded rod? How is it cocked exactly?

[Flexmoney]

I believe that second rod (the one that is about 4 inches inboard) is just a guide to keep the tang of the main rod from digging into the ground as it activates.

The tang (trigger tab) is fixed/welded to the main rod, which is the one under spring tension. The tab is pressed down, it slips off the fixed "sear", allowing the spring to drive the rod to the rear. (When set, the main rod sticks out the front. That is where the activator wire attaches. Be sure to weld a handle on out there of some sort at 90 degrees...to aide in resetting.

[jmorris]

As above, it is in “cocked” position in the photo. The bent tab in the center is what activates it from the plywood hinged cover (far left), if you look close you can even see where the paint has been scraped off by use. As Flex notes a lever on the outside helps with rotation into “locked” position or I just welded a carabineer on the end to give you something to twist with.

I made two the other day and didn’t have any appropriate compression springs so I use tension springs instead. It turns out this works even better because it gives you a little help resetting it and keeping it out of the dirt below. If you can imagine a ¼” bolt welded 90 degrees from where the end of the compression spring is in the photo above and attached to the bottom of the frame, running below the latch in about the same position as the bottom round rod in the photo.

[latech15]

Flex- I get it now. Thanks for the explanation.

[hitman]

Anybody got plans for a cheap / quick wood activator platform?

Dont have the time or steel to weld anything up right now.

[gunsteel]

That picture of the foot activator is a GUNSTEEL target design (BEARTRAP) I know because I built it and sell about 50 a year. You can go to gunsteel.com and see 3 pictures. Problem is if you don't know the measurements of everything it sure makes it a lot harder to build. Need a certain "power Lb. spring" so it is easy to cock but will also activate 2 Targets at once. Need to be able to cock from the front or rear, etc. I cut the proto type apart probably 12 times before I came upon the right combination

of everything. Max TY-21921