jmark308 Posted June 17, 2010 Share Posted June 17, 2010 After about an eight month wait, the .22 conversion for my Match finally arrived:cheers: Have fired about 100 rounds of mixed brand ammo. CCI Mini Mags seem to work the best, but there are still a lot of hiccups. Sometimes it doesn't cycle fully, i.e. doesn't chamber a round. Other times it appears that the empty is ejected to the left rather than to the right causing the whole thing to jam up. But when it runs, it is an accurate little bitch. Anyone else have similar experiences? How many rounds before it is broken in? I have polished the feed ramp and that seemed to help the feeding. Any specific ammo recommendations? Tip, hints, commentary? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted June 27, 2010 Share Posted June 27, 2010 I've been thinking of getting one for shooting plate matches. I have a Stock 2 and I wonder what the thing looks like on a gun. I was just looking in the gallery under "22lr pics" and found nothing. I shoot my EAA in production class and love the way it handles. I can't imagine what it would be like shooting it in 22lr. I'm sure it would be a great practice setup. Anybody have pictures? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted August 31, 2010 Share Posted August 31, 2010 after trying a conversion kit on a CZ shadow, I am thinking about getting one for my stock2. Anyone have one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 12, 2010 Share Posted September 12, 2010 (edited) got my .22 conversion kit with 2 extra mags. Polished the slide rails as it was a little tight. Just noticed the extractor spring is very weak. Could not reliably hand cycle it,...seems the extractor could use a heavier (ie: regular strength) spring. The recoil spring must be about 8lbs,..maybe lighter. **also to note,..the extractor seems to stick out to the side in a fashion similiar to other models....but really far. Could possibly need trimming on the head of the extractor to allow it to grab the brass better. Feeds well though. Edited September 13, 2010 by Mo Hepworth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanfogliofan Posted September 28, 2010 Share Posted September 28, 2010 I finally got up the gumption to order one. I want to try it out on my Stock 2 and use it for a local plate shoot we do out in my neck of the woods. Thanks for some feedback! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted September 29, 2010 Share Posted September 29, 2010 my firing pin is much too short....I trimmed a 9mm small frame to work with it. Still getting light or non strikes,..better check my brass to make sure it is even contacting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedHawk Posted October 16, 2010 Share Posted October 16, 2010 (edited) ** Edited October 16, 2010 by RedHawk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolsf Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 my firing pin is much too short....I trimmed a 9mm small frame to work with it. Still getting light or non strikes,..better check my brass to make sure it is even contacting. I encounter the same issue. I got light strike on every shot. The firing pin is way too short on my eaa conversion kit. Are you able to fix your problem? I haven't been able to find a longer firing pin which will fit into the conversion kit? Have you? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted December 28, 2011 Share Posted December 28, 2011 I ended up making a new pin out of a regular pin. Make sure the firing pin is hitting on the rim all the time...not in the centre or below the rim. The FPB needs to be retained to keep the Firing pin in line with 12 o'clock. You could also try taking weight off that factory firing pin, and also I would recommend using the full power hammer spring..(16lbs) I reshaped the firing pin tip as well, to allow it to contact rim first(angled like a scalpel) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolsf Posted January 18, 2012 Share Posted January 18, 2012 I ended up making a new pin out of a regular pin. Make sure the firing pin is hitting on the rim all the time...not in the centre or below the rim. The FPB needs to be retained to keep the Firing pin in line with 12 o'clock. You could also try taking weight off that factory firing pin, and also I would recommend using the full power hammer spring..(16lbs) I reshaped the firing pin tip as well, to allow it to contact rim first(angled like a scalpel) [/quote Which firing pin did you order to modify? Was it the 9mm firing pin for small frame? Did you order from EAA? Thanks again. The firing pin hits very light and not on the rim. I made the firing pin stop plate thinner but it didn't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Hepworth Posted January 19, 2012 Share Posted January 19, 2012 I used a small frame,...as my conversion was for a small frame. I would try lightening the weight of the .22 firing pin first....also make sure it is hitting on the rim. If not you may have to try and bend it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coolsf Posted February 25, 2012 Share Posted February 25, 2012 I used a small frame,...as my conversion was for a small frame. I would try lightening the weight of the .22 firing pin first....also make sure it is hitting on the rim. If not you may have to try and bend it. Thanks for your advice. It looks like I'm getting there. I had to bend the regular 1911 firing pin so that it contacts the rim first. However, I put 14lbs hammer spring, it didn't fire all rounds. I need to try a heavier one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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