Modifying revolver springs...

[Stradawhovious]

I REALLY don't want this to turn into a pissing match, I'm just curious on the schools of thought on the three different techniques used for adjusting the hammer spring tension on a modern S&W revolver. I have heard three differend techniques from 12 different techs, all of whom say the others are dead wrong, and shouldn't be allowed to touch a firearm. (This is the type of stuff I want to try to avoid in this thread)

The three ways I have heard to adjust the spring tension are bending, filing, and shortening the strain screw (or a combination of some or all). What methods do you guys use, and why? What do you see as the down sides of the methods you don't use?

Edited June 4, 2010 by Stradawhovious

[Viggen]

It's sort of an "all of the above" sort of thing, with a 4th option thrown in as well,

#4 being, Buy a better spring for the intended purpose.

Opinions will differ.

[LPatterson]

I started out with a Bang Inc spring from Brownells but it didn't lower the trigger weight like I wanted so I did what hundreds of others did, I sent it to Mike Carmoney. Best decision I ever made other than my divorce which IS at the top of the list.

[Carmoney]

Thanks LeRoy--that is a great testimonial!

For the record, I generally retain the factory springs when doing my action work.

In most cases, I shorten the strain screw somewhat--this allows it to be fully tightened down rather than used as an "adjustment" screw--then re-arch the mainspring to achieve the proper final tension. The goal is to make it as light as possible (and this directly depends on what ammo/primers the owner will be using), with a small cushion built in to ensure 100% ignition reliability.

The trickier part is balancing the rebound spring tension to the lighter mainspring tension. I do this by cutting and polishing the rebound spring. The goal here is to keep it as light as possible, while still retaining a nice snappy rebound. A rebound spring that is slightly too light (or too heavy) will really mess up the feel of the DA cycle.

This whole process is not particularly difficult, but it can be time-consuming and it's definitely more art than science. Every revolver is an individual specimen unto itself, and that's why nobody has ever been able to successfully package a drop-in spring kit that will work optimally in everybody's gun. I figure there's not much use in paying for aftermarket springs that will probably need to be adjusted anyway.

[Stradawhovious]

Thanks for the explainations!

And for the record, by "adjust" the strain screw, I should have put "shorten" which is what I meant. Sorry!

And thanks to those that suggest sending to a professional...... I know that's the correct thing to do since that's where it will end up when I ruin it (only to be charged more than going rate to fix the things I sullied..), but I'm too proud (read: too stupid) to do that with this one.

This question is also not about getting advice since I have already chosen my path with this, I'm just curious about the thought processes behind the different methods.

Thanks!

[revomodel10]

I went for "send it to a professional!"

"A man's got to know his limitations" a quote from a great revolver man!

[AzShooter]

After years of working with a couple of gunsmiths I learned to bend the main spring and to use a reduced rebound spring. Also to polish the heck out of the interiors. I also use different metal preps to keep everything running smooth.

Best bet... take it to a pro and let them do it right for you. I'm retired and don't mind having to take hours to do the right job.

[Mooney]

woops...clicked then didn't click right box.... played with one (bent spring), and had RGS play with a couple (believe bent and MAY have filed...). Still like the ones he did best, can't beat experience, and I don't have time right now to screw mine up . Thanks RGS!

[Boats]

I think it's more art than science and have given revolvers that are important to a real S&W gunsmith. On your own, I recommend getting a beater gun and playing with it, go wrong and not much loss, I did and learned enough to know how it works and appreciate the work that a real smith does.

Boats

[inkedshooter]

I just bought a Wolff spring kit and filed the strain screw a little for both my 686 and 625.

Edited June 6, 2010 by inkedshooter

[Round_Gun_Shooter]

Bend and balance. I bend the main spring, polish the inernals, and mate the proper rebound spring to the job and shooter. I use/used a heavier rebound spring than I did for Mooney and heavier than I do for most but it is only because of personal preference.

I stock Wolff springs from 11# to 16# but I don't do this work anymore. (except for you Mooney :-) )

[kevinj308]

I clicked shorten the strain screw but I've also used a reduced power hammer spring in my N frame. Lightening the hammer strike to be reliable with Federal primers. Then I played with the rebound spring to balance it out. In my K frame however I ended up using the stock spring after some trial and error with aftermarket ones. It just worked better, and a slightly shortened strain screw. The two guns needed different things to end up feeling the same. That's how it worked for me anyway, sure had alot of fun playing with them and learned some stuff too.

Good luck and have fun!

Kevin

[Stradawhovious]

Well, I appreciate all of your responses! Seems to me that there is pretty much a consensus on the way you all choose to make the action lighter/better.

I jsut got back form a range trip to function test my 625, and I'm happy to report that it touched off all of the rounds without a hitch. Trigger is at a silky smooth 6lbs, clean break, and firm reset. (Federal only of course!)

I did what most of the rest of you did, and that's a combination of polishing the lockwork, bending the spring, and shortening the strain screw.

It was eaisier than I expected (I probably got lucky), but I can see how easy it is to ruin parts, or ruin the feel of the trigger pull by doing this. Certainly not for the squeemish, technically "declined", or faint of heart!

[Carmoney]

Polishing the internal action parts and adjusting springs is not hard.

Polishing the parts properly without changing a couple of key dimensions, and getting the springs in proper balance to each other.....well, that's a little harder.

The real difficulty comes in diagnosing and fixing issues that are occurring between the cylinder, extractor ratchet, the hand, and the cylinder stop. Getting the cylinder rotating smoothly and freely (yet without excess play) and indexing and carrying up correctly is critical to a good action job. Cylinder problems are very common in these guns, including a good portion of factory-fresh brand new revolvers.

Ever handle a revolver with a cylinder that binds or sticks, or locks up intermittently? Or one that feels nice on four chambers but heavy on the other two? Those are the guns where the custom revolversmith really earns his pay.

Or so it seems to me!