competition hammer and SA trigger

[Lonnie]

Would like to buy these from Angus, but it sounds as if some fitting is required. Installing on a CZ75B, turning it into SAO. Anyone here install them already and able to provide detailed pics on what actually will need filing/fitting? Thank you.

[burningsquirrels]

Check my sear guide at czforumsite.info in the gunsmithing section to trim the safety leg of the sear. There is also a thrread by me to convert to SAO there. Pretty easy.

[Lonnie]

Check my sear guide at czforumsite.info in the gunsmithing section to trim the safety leg of the sear. There is also a thrread by me to convert to SAO there. Pretty easy.

Thank you very much! I'll check them out.

[JamesLovesJammie]

I am not a gunsmith and can barely qualify as "someone who works well with his hands". I did all the work myself. If I got frustrated or confused, I just referenced the articles listed above and figured it out. It isn't as complicated as you would think.

Burningsquirrels' post on the CZ forum gave me the confidence to do it. I took my time and studied the photos and the result was fantastic. The thing that took the longest for me was fitting the safety. I really took my time, as I didn't want to take too much off and have it not function.

When you make your order, make sure you purchase the CZ Custom trigger pin. Instead of using a roll pin, the trigger pin is a solid pin and much better.

My SAO trigger pull breaks right at 2.25 lbs. I have the Comp hammer, Flat trigger, 13 lb mainspring, extended firing pin, no firing pin block, trimmed lifter leg, and removed disconnector.

If you get questions, the CZF is a good place to ask them. Great group over there.

[burningsquirrels]

yes, the new style trigger pin is a must. i recently ordered a few of them. they much easier than trying to re-set the roll pins.

if you compete and need lightning reloads, the flat mag brake is a must... polishing the underside of the slide and beveling the breech face helps reliability to prevent first round walk, that can prevent a mag from dropping free.

also, make sure that when the trigger is pulled and the sear is in the 'up' position, that the hammer hooks don't drag the underside of the sear. allow the trigger overtravel screw to let the trigger move back until the sear is fully clear of the hooks. you don't want the half-cock hooks slapping the sear, this causes premature wear and potential doubling.

[eerw]

great info given here..

for the most part the install is pretty straight forward. the thing to be cautious about is lots of small parts/springs in a CZ.

usually the sear/safety will need to be fitted. couple of ways to got about that. either taking metal off the sear arm or off the pad on the safety.

I have seen where the trigger may need some fitting, but the last couple I have done, there was nothing out of the ordinary.

[CocoBolo]

I took mine to a smith and he had to call Angus to figure it out. But it is worth it.

[beltjones]

I'll add one suggestion:

Before removing any small springs (and there are a few of them), take a break, study how the springs seem to fit together and how the part functions with the springs, and maybe even take a picture of everything. Once you take the springs out, getting them back in can be a headache because they're so small, and it can be a nightmare if you aren't absolutely sure how they're supposed to be positioned. Also, don't work over carpet.

One other thing: If you're going to a comp hammer and a SA trigger, I don't see a real need to go with a reduced power mainspring. The reduced power mainspring makes a huge difference in the DA pull, but a very minor one in the SA pull. I went back to the full power factory mainspring after converting to SA, with only a 1/16 lb difference in trigger pull weight (it went from 2 lbs to just barely - almost imperceptively - greater than 2 lbs). I think the reliability of having a heavier mainspring is a good tradeoff for an ounce or so of trigger pull weight.