SVI4ME Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 I just got a S&W 625. It has had an action job already. I loaded up some Clays and Montana Gold 185 JHP's. Very nice load but I had enough misfires that it screwed up my match for sure. After the match I turned in the main spring screw all the way. I will also change from Winchester primers to Federal. If all that doesn't help what might I look for next. Stock mainspring? How much will that foul up my nice trigger pull? Thanks Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 Hi, nice to see another fellow revolver shooter here. Stock springs work fine, but Wolff or Miculek springs give a marginally lighter pull with the same reliability. It all comes down to personal preference though. Just make sure you seat the Federal primers all the way. This makes a huge difference.They have to be at least flush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Round_Gun_Shooter Posted December 24, 2003 Share Posted December 24, 2003 My favorite spring set up is the Wolf factory spring with a 15# rebound spring. I shorten the strain screw a little at a time testing with CCI primers. Then I use fully seated Federal primers from that point on. With some good stone work on the trigger hook and the cylinder stop for recovery, this set up works well for me. Now if I only could shoot Happy Holidays, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dajarrel Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 One of the guys that shoots revolver with me was having problems with misfires and cured it with and extended firing pin from Brownells. He is using Winchester primers with good reliability although with federal primers (my choice) you can still maintain a good trigger job. dj Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derek45 Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 With the C&S extended firing pin, and Federal Primers, My 625 will run with the Wolf reduced "Power rib" spring kit and the lightest rebound spring, 13lbs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockwell Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Fully seated FEDERAL PRIMERS is the only way to go. Since I switched over to them, I have not had a problem in my 25-2. (knock on wood) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NPSA 86-259 Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Spook, you had three S&W 625, two of those with the firing pin on the hammer and one with the firing pin within the frame. You told me there was a difference between the those revolvers. With the new method of firing pin you needed a heavier spring and this made you decide to sell that one and use only the revolvers with the firing pin on the hammer. Has anyone felt the same? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted March 30, 2004 Share Posted March 30, 2004 Well, I've noticed that the revolver with the frame mounted firing pin wasn't as reliable as the others with the same trigger weight. There must be ways to fix this (oversized FP etc., but I don't like to fool around with guns to get them the way I like). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NPSA 86-259 Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 Hey Spook, congratulations with your second place with 99,59 % in Revolver Division at the Int. Helmut Schwaiger Trophy 2004 in Vienna Austria. To be seen at http://www.s-c-w.net/schwaigertrophy/2004/...y-results04.htm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spook Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 Thanks Arie! I'll make sure I'll get 100% next time Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slughammer Posted March 31, 2004 Share Posted March 31, 2004 Federal primers are the way to go. My 625 would back the strain screw off even if it was seated against the frame. A little blue loc tight keeps that from happening and also allows adjustment if necessary. Out of all my S&W's, my 625 is the only gun that I run with the strain screw backed off slightly. (It is also the most recent that I have set up). I have the pull at 9lbs with the screw seated fully and then backed it off and added the blue loc-tight to hold it there. I marked a line on the frame to line up with the screw slot with a sharpie and then covered it with a piece of tape. If there is ever a reason, I can twist it back to 9lbs with just the turn of a screw driver. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bberkley Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 Some of the revolver guys here in Oregon are using the Power Rib mainspring, and an 11 lb. rebound spring, and then adjust the mainspring tension until it reliably ignites every time, then they cross-drill the grip frame at where the tension screw is at, and tap it for a set screw. I'm having Brian Hawley of Experimental Machining do the set screw treatment to my 610 right now. I still need to polish all the internal parts, and then go test fire before I will know how low I can go with the trigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bountyhunter Posted April 1, 2004 Share Posted April 1, 2004 With the new method of firing pin you needed a heavier spring and this made you decide to sell that one and use only the revolvers with the firing pin on the hammer. Has anyone felt the same? YES, my guns with the frame mounted FP's require more mainspring force to ignite and thus, a heavier DA pull is necessary. I have not sold any of the new ones, but I do regularly curse SW for going to the stupid frame mounted firing pins (a solution to a non existent problem). I put C+S extended firing pins in all mine and did NOT see a noticable improvement in that department. BTW, the "extended" FP just moves th tip of the FP out to where it was on the old guns (so it can't pierce primers). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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