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New 625


SVI4ME

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I just got a S&W 625. It has had an action job already. I loaded up some Clays and Montana Gold 185 JHP's. Very nice load but I had enough misfires that it screwed up my match for sure. After the match I turned in the main spring screw all the way. I will also change from Winchester primers to Federal. If all that doesn't help what might I look for next. Stock mainspring? How much will that foul up my nice trigger pull?

Thanks

Rob

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Hi, nice to see another fellow revolver shooter here. Stock springs work fine, but Wolff or Miculek springs give a marginally lighter pull with the same reliability. It all comes down to personal preference though.

Just make sure you seat the Federal primers all the way. This makes a huge difference.They have to be at least flush.

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My favorite spring set up is the Wolf factory spring with a 15# rebound spring. I shorten the strain screw a little at a time testing with CCI primers. Then I use fully seated Federal primers from that point on.

With some good stone work on the trigger hook and the cylinder stop for recovery, this set up works well for me. Now if I only could shoot :(

Happy Holidays,

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One of the guys that shoots revolver with me was having problems with misfires and cured it with and extended firing pin from Brownells. He is using Winchester primers with good reliability although with federal primers (my choice) you can still maintain a good trigger job.

dj

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  • 3 months later...

Spook, you had three S&W 625, two of those with the firing pin on the hammer and one with the firing pin within the frame. You told me there was a difference between the those revolvers. With the new method of firing pin you needed a heavier spring and this made you decide to sell that one and use only the revolvers with the firing pin on the hammer. Has anyone felt the same?

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Well, I've noticed that the revolver with the frame mounted firing pin wasn't as reliable as the others with the same trigger weight. There must be ways to fix this (oversized FP etc., but I don't like to fool around with guns to get them the way I like).

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Federal primers are the way to go.

My 625 would back the strain screw off even if it was seated against the frame. A little blue loc tight keeps that from happening and also allows adjustment if necessary.

Out of all my S&W's, my 625 is the only gun that I run with the strain screw backed off slightly. (It is also the most recent that I have set up). I have the pull at 9lbs with the screw seated fully and then backed it off and added the blue loc-tight to hold it there. I marked a line on the frame to line up with the screw slot with a sharpie and then covered it with a piece of tape. If there is ever a reason, I can twist it back to 9lbs with just the turn of a screw driver.

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Some of the revolver guys here in Oregon are using the Power Rib mainspring, and an 11 lb. rebound spring, and then adjust the mainspring tension until it reliably ignites every time, then they cross-drill the grip frame at where the tension screw is at, and tap it for a set screw.

I'm having Brian Hawley of Experimental Machining do the set screw treatment to my 610 right now. I still need to polish all the internal parts, and then go test fire before I will know how low I can go with the trigger.

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With the new method of firing pin you needed a heavier spring and this made you decide to sell that one and use only the revolvers with the firing pin on the hammer. Has anyone felt the same?

YES, my guns with the frame mounted FP's require more mainspring force to ignite and thus, a heavier DA pull is necessary. I have not sold any of the new ones, but I do regularly curse SW for going to the stupid frame mounted firing pins (a solution to a non existent problem). I put C+S extended firing pins in all mine and did NOT see a noticable improvement in that department. BTW, the "extended" FP just moves th tip of the FP out to where it was on the old guns (so it can't pierce primers).

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