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BayouSlide

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Posts posted by BayouSlide

  1. Does the trigger pull still read 2 lbs, 11 oz. on your Lyman gauge?

    Maybe a slight adjustment of the sear spring is in order.

    Yup, checks out the same a yesterday, around a 2 lbs, 11 oz. average, maybe an oz. or two lighter, but pretty close to what it was before.

    I considered that perhaps the sear spring might need adjustment. The trigger has massaged stock internals. Now that Bobby Keigans is just about finished with my Limited gun, I'm thinking of sending him the Trojan to rework the trigger anyway. Just don't want any surprises for the match this Sunday.

    Curtis

  2. Over travel screw needs to be backed out ?

    Should I wait to see whether it occurs again or go ahead and back it out 1/16 of a turn now?

    Curtis

    Sorry, got it backwards. The screw needs to go in some. The trigger bow could be pushing the sear not allowing the hammer to hold when the slide cycles.

    Or of course it could be a hammer/sear issue.

    Would be easy to adjust it in 1/16 turn as a precaution. The trigger has probably broken in fully now and could need a slight adjustment. This will also decrease the overtravel slightly, correct?

    Curtis

  3. My new to me 9mm Trojan fell once to half-cock while I was running some practice drills today. First time that's happened in around 2500 rounds I've put through the pistol. Pistol probably has about 3500 rounds at this point.

    As near I remember, I was drawing and putting two shots on paper when the pistol failed to fire on the second shot when I pulled the trigger. I looked and saw the hammer at half cock. Ran another four magazines, including two with 10 shot strings in rapid fire and no further problem.

    The previous owner said the trigger had been lightly massaged by a member of this board and it has run like a top until now. The trigger runs about 2 lbs. 11 oz. on my Lyman gauge.

    Still a 1911 newbie here, so appreciate some guidance about what steps I should take next.

    :cheers:

    Curtis

    Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

  4. Pointing towards the backstop is always good policy, but not required as long as you stay within 90 degrees of the backstop. Now if you actually break a shot and it leaves the range, bye bye, different rule.

    "10.5.2 If at any time during the course of fire, a competitor allows the muzzle

    of his handgun to point rearwards, that is further than 90 degrees from

    the median intercept of the backstop, or in the case of no backstop,

    allows the muzzle to point up range, whether the handgun is loaded or

    not (limited exceptions: 10.5.6)."

    Curtis

  5. You'll probably fine, but keep an eye on that spring. Me, I'd probably think about changing it out. This test is a rule of thumb, not absolutely definitive. Springs don't last forever though. FWIW, I use an ISMI 13# in my G34 and change it out every 5K as a preventative measure.

    :cheers:

    Curtis

  6. I always carried spares but only broke one in about 18 years of shooting Glocks. Use Glock factory springs and make sure they are installed correctly, the opening on the spring should be down at the trigger bar or it will bind and break.

    Tim

    My bet is that Tim wins the tech support prize on your dilemma.

    :cheers:

    Curtis

  7. Are you perhaps stressing it at the "loop" bends when removing it during detail strip/cleaning? I have broken only one trigger spring (a reduced Wolff which I won't use any longer) in 55K rounds. You've probably already checked the spring hole on the trigger bar for roughness/sharp edge. If the spot where it's breaking is consistent with this, you could put a chamfer on the edges of this hole.

    Curtis

  8. I don't see anything about vanek triggers in D4.

    "21.5 Exchange of minor INTERNAL components (strikers, sears, springs, connectors/disconnectors, and other wholly-internal parts)" pretty much covers the Vanek "classic" type trigger and any other similar setup without any external mods because it specifically authorizes all the parts involved. A previous NROI ruling on the Vanek excluded the Vanek but was speaking specifically about the original Vanek which relocated the trigger pin hole.

    Curtis

    Edited: 'cause I hate tipos typos!

  9. There is not a lot of extra meat to play with on the Dawson extended pads...just ask a buddy of mine who tried to fit the gauge this way. The results were less than satisfactory. Just a light touch behind the feed lips will do it...it will take much more material removed from the basepad, due to the fact the gauge is already countoured for the shape of the feed lips.

    Curtis

  10. Lets put it this way...when Bob called to let me know the gun was being shipped back to me I asked him to grade my work. He sort of chuckled...I got the hint! I'll stick to airplanes! :cheers:

    I used to roadrace motorcycles and, as I told Bobby, there are parts changers and then there are mechanics...and I'm a decent parts changer. Just keep me away from files and Dremel tools. :devil:

    Curtis

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