BayouSlide
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Posts posted by BayouSlide
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So the 50mm rule grew a bit to 2 inches.
So that's what occurred. Just had gotten the old rule book under my belt with a recent RO course and I'm looking forward to studying the new one in depth before January.
I didn't follow changes affecting other divisions as much as I did Production, but in Production, it seems that the final rules followed some frequently expressed wishes offered by members during the initial comment phase.
Thanks again, for the replies, Gary. As I expected, it didn't take long to get some definitive answers on the BENOS forum and I'll be happy to do my part to help spread the word locally on these Production division issues.
Curtis
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Also there is no trigger pull weight rule in Production or any language that prohibits the DOH in Production.
Thanks for checking in, Gary. The reason for my post is that a lot of Production shooters haven't as yet noted the change in the final rules to 2 inch...at 1 5/8 inch the DOH would not have been legal, at least for Glock shooters running the common setup with a CR Speed or other belts. I thought I had been following the board discussion and the various motions regarding the 1 5/8 inch proposal but I never noticed when it fell by the wayside.
Hats off and our thanks to you or any other members of the board who had anything to do with the changes that brought the DOH back into the fold with the final rule change to 2 inch for holsters and mag pouches. I know some members of the clubs that I shoot with were assuming not only was the DOH out, but that certain common mag pouches wouldn't fit the proposed 1 5/8 inch rule.
Unfortunately, it's easier to find the prior Draft rules on the USPSA Web site than the rules as adopted, which has a link buried many levels down in the board minutes notes. You actually have to know what month the rules were voted on, and that it was a phone/online meeting, to find them.
Maybe the Web site could feature the adopted rules a little more prominently until the printed rule books come out in January or are the rules still in the proofing stage?
Curtis
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Not my area of concern, but am I missing something re: Single Stack? The same 2" rule now applies there as well.
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Under the earlier versions of the 2008 Handgun rules, it seemed that the Blade Tech DOH would be illegal for Production due to the new 1 5/8-inch-from-the belt requirement. At local matches and in the forums, everyone had resigned themselves to having lost one of the two main battles of interest to Production shooters in the new rules (the other was the 3# trigger, which died a merciful death earlier in the process).
Now, in the rules showing as adopted in the August meeting, http://www.uspsa.org/bodminutes/online_att...andgunRules.pdf, Appendix D4 now lists "2 inches" in distance from the inner belt for both magazines and handguns. From the inside of my innermost CR Speed belt to the side of the grip of of my Glock 34, measured perpendicularly, it's approx. 1.93 inches. If that 2" isn't a typo, looks like my DOH is good to go in 2008
Maybe I'm living out here in the swamps, but this is real news to me. I had been corresponding with Blade Tech regarding any pending mods in the DOH based on the new rules when I finally saw this: they had asked for links to the new regs. When did this change to 2 inches occur and why hasn't this change, if real, received more notice, I wonder. Interestly, the photos in E2 show the earlier proposed measurements.
Curtis
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I use six 10 rounders as practice mags and have 18 hi-caps reserved for competition (USPSA Production). Never seen this type of failure from the hi-caps. But despite new mag springs and updated followers from Glock, three of these 10 round mags still consistently exhibit this type of failure, especially if my G34 has gone a couple of sessions (300 - 500 rds) without cleaning.
I use ISMI 13# springs and loads at about a 134 PF...the 10 rounders at their best just don't seem work as well as the standard hi-caps, all things being equal, in my experience. Some seem to work better than others, for some reason.
Next time I've got a few spare bucks and run into a good deal on standard mags, I'm canning all six 10-rounders.
I feel your pain, bro, and sorry that isn't an option for you because of your location.
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I also want to put on an extended mag release and slide release. I have not found out much about which ones I can use and still be legal. Also, where to you guys shop for your spare parts. I haven't found any decent shops around me, in Orlando. I know of Brownells and midway, but was wondering if you folks had any better spots to find good deals.
Welcome! You can use Glock OEM extended mag release and slide releases because they come standard on other models like the G34 and 35. My main "go to" places for Glock parts are Lone Wolf Distributors (http://www.lonewolfdist.com) and Glockparts.com. Both have good prices and extremely reasonable shipping costs with their 1st class mail options.
Best of luck, from one Production shooter to another
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The set screw's foward tip should be flat and polished.
Been doing that for years on my over-travel stop screw.
Thanks to Charlie, who went well out of his way to help out a new customer, I ultimately solved the problem---one way or the other---by replacing the entire trigger setup. My new Vanek production drop-in trigger has been running great.
It has a very different feel than my previous trigger, primarily a firmer and crisper pull. The trigger safety works exactly like stock and "pops" the "safety lever" on the trigger out completely. Had to retrain my finger a bit because of this to make sure I cleared the safety lever cleanly every time with my fingertip when shooting at speed. But the trigger pull and reset is really crisp. Like the feel of a clean Glock trigger, just better in every way.
Charlie has obviously spent a lot of time experimenting how to get the most out of a Glock trigger without pushing the envelope too close to the edge---an excellent approach in my book and I'm really pleased with both the product and his excellent customer service.
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Grip Tape?
in Glock
Tried 'em all, but TruGrip is the best IMO, especially when hands are dripping with sweat during summer matches here in Louisiana and Mississippi. Tames the slip on that slick Glock plastic just right, no matter how the temps and humidity climb
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I couldn't find it either. The short version...ease up on the over-travel.
Right you are...the doomed and quixotic search for the elusive "1911-like" trigger in the Glock runs full speed into the brick wall of reality once again
Going to pull out all the modded parts for the GSSF match in Thibodaux, La., in April. Can't remember what a stock Glock trigger even feels like anymore...but guess I'll be finding out soon.
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I think there was just a thread on this over on GT.
Flex, I looked high and low and couldn't find anything related to either "overtravel" or "over travel" or "reset" on this topic. Plenty of food for thought here, though, now. Thanks again, all.
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I talked to Vanek about this very question awhile back and he told me it causes problems with the reset. I had a buddy having a rest problem and he increased the overtravel a little and it went away. Just give it a try.
Very interesting indeed. Thanks for passing on the info, Chuck. When troubleshooting anything, I usually assume the last change I made in any mechanical device most likely caused the problem until proven otherwise.
The gun ran flawlessly with my original---and conservative---overtravel setting...but then I got greedy and wanted just a little more of a good thing
I like things tweeked but on the 100 percent reliable side...I guess I may have just crossed the line into 98 percent reliability with that additional 1/2 turn of the overtravel stop screw.
I'm going back to my old setting, or maybe halfway inbetween the old and the newer setting, an shoot for a couple of weeks to see how it turns out.
Appreciate the info and interest from both you and DF to help out a fellow shooter. I've learned a lot on these forums and the always helpful and pleasant tone of the discussions around here is an increasingly rare commodity on the Web.
Curtis
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Too much overtravel ajustment will not cause the gun not to reset but will cause you not to be able to pull the trigger far enough to release the striker.
Thanks for the info, DF. That is what I recall reading when I orginally set up the LWUTS. That's what had me scratching my head.
So it doesn't appear, in your opinion, that the sort of malfunction I'm seeing could have anything to do with the overtravel adjustment. If that's the case, I'd love to reduce the overtravel back to my previous adjustment, all else being equal.
In all likelihood then, based on the info you've provided, I might be at the point where I may be beginning to get wear in the trigger group and/or connector and that may be causing the problem. For now, I think I'll change out the trigger group springs and drop a fresh connector in and test. I've got at least four practice sessions before the next match and if the intermittent problem doesn't crop up again, I'm GTG. If not, I guess the next step is change out to a fresh triggerbar.
Hate to change out the triggerbar and connector at this point, though: after about 30K rounds, the trigger pull is slick and sweet.
Really appreciate you taking the time to share your thoughts on troubleshooting my problem.
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What weight is your recoil spring? is it so light that the striker spring is not letting the slide go fully closed? Test this by holding the slide back and hold the trigger back while slowly easing your slide forward till it stops. This shows up in dirty guns more often than clean guns. Just one possibility that I have seen in stock guns as well as custom Glocks.
DF
Thanks, DF, but the recoil spring is #13 and GTG with the striker. Passes the above test muzzle up with flying colors.
But just to muddy the waters a little, I had reduced the overtravel in my back up G17 by the same amount [same setup, LWUTS, RS trigger, etc.] and noticed today after cleaning it after today's practice that it was "notchy" going into battery in the above test with the barrel pointed straight up. But after increasing the overtravel by 1/2 turn back to my original setting, it went into battery smoothly.
That's what made me really start to wonder if too little overtravel was really the cause of my problems. I guess I'm a little vague on exactly what too little overtravel would cause. Maybe someone can enlighten me.
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I'm looking for a reality check on something I've been puzzling over today. Here's the situation.
I've had a Ralph Sotello Triggerkit in my G34 for the last 17K rounds and a Lone Wolf Ultimate Trigger Stop for the last 5K. BTW, 28K rds total on the gun. Wolfe competition kit springs and ISMI 13# recoil spring get changed out every 6K, so springs are GTG.
About two months ago I reduced the over travel with the LWUTS another 1/2 turn. Everything working swell for about 2K practice rounds. At the next match, I had a couple of failures to reset that, in the heat of the moment, I attributed to a cold day, stiff lube and a recoil spring that was weakened. Changed out the recoil spring and had no other problems for a month, including another match.
But today early in a practice session, it happened again, two or three times. After a vigrous rack on the slide, the pistol was in battery, but the trigger wouldn't reset until I pulled back on the slide a little and released it again. After a little more shooting, the problem ceased and everything worked hunky dory. FWIW, the gun was a little dirty, but only about 500 rounds worth, and had been detail stripped and cleaned a just a couple weeks ago.
I've been poring over the forum here and on GlockTalk but have run into little that sheds any light on the situation.
Could too much reduction in overtravel prevent a reset in this way? Seemed theorectically possible, I guess, so I've backed off the overtravel screw to my earlier setting and I'm ready to change out all the springs except the new recoil spring, as well. I considered some sort of connector problem, but compared my stock polished 3.5# OEM connector to some factory fresh versions and the shape and dimensions seem fine, i.e. no unusual wear.
Appreciate any ideas or insights. I don't like intermittent problems in my normally stone-reliable G34...particularly ones I can't puzzle out
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FWIW, I just started using my PACT MKIV as a chrono, with very mixed results, i.e. the same sort of errors others are reporting here.
But with two changes in my set up, I've gone from a 25 - 50% success rate to a 98% success rate.
First, following some advice on this forum, I made sure that the two leads from the skyscreen setup run parallel to each other (no touching or cross over) and touch the ground for the majority of their length.
Second, I put the PACT unit in a padded mini-CD player case. The case even has a slit designed for headphone wires that allow the skyscreen unit leads to plug in while the PACT is cased.
I had noticed the first time I used the PACT as a chrono that it started to register shots more successfully once it was removed from close vicinity to the gun. But in my last session, while in the CD player case, the PACT worked fine when placed right next to the muzzle.
Like others, I'm guessing that the impulses to the shot-timer microphone in the PACT may have been interfering with the chrono in some way.
Curtis
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However, going down from 143 to 135 will not get me into GM, so unless I end up reaching 150 I'll probably stick to a load that I know works and gives me good accuracy.
I totally agree. Nothing wrong with even a 150 PF if that's what works for somebody. No trophies for the shooter who chronos closest to 125
Even at this stage of my shooting development, I understand that the more important thing is how the gun feels/works for each person's shooting style. I tend to shoot better with heavier bullets...like more of a recoil push than a snap...and it seems to aid my 53-year-old bifocal eyes in quicker sight reacquisition. And it just so happens that a mid to high 130s PF seems to work well for me at this stage of my shooting.
I've still got a long ways to go to break out of C class and a lot to learn. But places like this forum have aided immensely to quickening my learning curve.
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Bullet: Zero 147gr JHP
Powder: 3.95gr VV340
OAL: 28.6mm (1.122")
Primer: Fed100
That's pretty close to the starting points I selected. I chronoed my first efforts yesterday at the range.
I loaded to 1.112 OAL with Zero 147s, the Fed 100s, mixed twice-fired brass and three different loads in my Glock 34.
3.9gr VV N340, which chronoed at an average of 972.7 FPS for a 143.0 Power Factor
4.1gr VV N350, which chronoed at 939.0 for a 138.0 PF
4.3gr VV N350, which chronoed at 988.6 for 144.7 PF.
It should be noted that both the N350 loads are below the starting points that Vihta Vuori recommends, but the PF specs and the look of a case filled to their specs made me decide to test a reduced starting load...I'm glad I did. Worked out fine. Based on my results, I couldn't see any need for 4.5 gr of N350 for a Production gun.
Both the 3.9 gr N340 and the N350 4.3 gr loads were on the snappy side, with a feel kinda similar to but slightly snappier than what I remember from 115gr commercial loadings. The 4.1 grain load of N350 was softer and more in line with what I'm looking for as far as the "feel" of the gun and similar in feel to the Atlanta Arms reloads I've been shooting. Accuracy was good for all, but I shot the N350 4.1 gr loading a little better in my limited initial tests; unfortunately I only had a few rounds of loads with the N350. But I would have been happy to take that 4.1 gr load to a match this weekend.
Last night I loaded up 100 rds of a slightly reduced load of N340 at 3.8 grains, and will load 150 with N350 at 4.1 gr for more indepth accuracy tests and trigger time before finalizing on my new load.
With a little acclimation to the feel of the machine and its operation, the new 550B I got from Brian is a champ. The only real quirk was that the angle of the powder measure fail safe rod and its adjustment spring/nut needs to be "just so" to avoid binding, so I kept tweeking and measuring until I felt I'd sorted it out. I'm using a Lee FCD in the final station for a light final touch up and my brass is sizing great, gauging perfectly and sealing perfectly in the chamber.
Loads of fun punching tight holes in targets with ammo you "manufactured" yourself. Loving it! Thanks everyone for the helpful info.
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Finally found a post from Clay1 with info from Zero that answers the question. The O.A.L. should be 1.120/1.105. That makes sense based on my Atlanta Arms reloads which work well. I'll make some test loads in that range with VV N340 today.
Once again, this site is a great resource, though the search function is a little quirky in accepting parameters...then again, maybe it's just me that's a little quirky
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Thanks for the replies. Since posting, I've spent a hour or three further perusing info on this site and elsewhere. I've pulled down some good info on what others are using that seems consistent enough with my reloading manuals that I feel I have a safe starting point for a Zero 147 gr OAL for my G34.
I'm leaning towards starting with a 1.140 maximum OAL at the recommended starting powder charge and putting together a couple dozen rounds to test next week. But 1.130 would split the difference between the VV recommendations for Hornady and my current ammo.
I still have over 1K Atlanta Arms rounds on hand so I can take my time developing my load. The Atlanta Arms ammo is good stuff, but I'm hoping to put together something that will be a little more suited to my shooting. And maybe eke out some additional accuracy through experimentation and personal attention to detail than is possible with high volume reloads. And, last but not least, to be able to afford the extra practice I'll need to knock on the door of B class. Time will tell. Appreciate the advice, guys.
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Set up my new Dillon [thanks Brian!] and working up the specs for my first loads this weekend. I'll be using Zero JHP in 147 gr for USPSA Production [been using these bullets successfully for the last year in Atlanta Arms & Ammo loads].
All the reloading manuals list the Hornady 147 gr. loads. I am going to be testing Vihta Vuori N340 & 350. My question is, as far as C.O.L. figures, should I feel confident in using the provided specs for the Hornady bullets for my Zero jacketed hollow points? Got the Zeros on hand but no Hornady bullets to compare side by side: I would assume they are very similar in construction.
The VV reloading info calls for a C.O.L. of 1.142 for the Hornady bullets, which BTW, is a little shorter than the Atlanta Arms C.O.L. reloads I've been using...they seem to run in the vicinity of 1.105.
Appreciate any enlightenment y'all can toss my way...and thanks again to our forum host for such a great resource.
Removing separated copper jacket from barrel post-squib
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Bad enough to have the first squib of my life in the first array of targets of the final stage of the Gator Classic today, but to add insult to injury (fortunately only metaphorically), the lead core of the JHP separated when pounding the squib out of Glock 34 barrel...lead core came out, the copper jacket is still stuck in the barrel in a thick ring of copper.
The only copper solvent available at China-Mart tonight was Gunslick Copper-Klenz and I was going to soak the barrel in it for a couple of days to see if it might loosen it up. But unless the solvent cuts it enough to remove by vigorous brushing, it still need to be removed somehow.
Anybody have any better ideas, or a better solvent?
Appreciate any advice.
Curtis