Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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They have a thin stainless steel "floorplate" that you remove and everything comes out the bottom.
Look for the MBX video about them and you see how they are assembled, they also show the floorplate thing.
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I just went out and ran a few hundred reloads through my PSA AR9. I won it off a prize table a few weeks ago at the High Desert Classic in Albuquerque, NM. I initially went out with some Federal aluminum 115 gr ammo and it shot it but I had issues. I ran some of my reloads with 124 gr Blue bullets and it seemed to like the 124 gr better. Went out again yesterday with my new Glock 33 round stick and some of the ETS mags. Shooting more of my reloads with the 124 gr Blue bullets I had initial problems with the Glock big stick and thought "Crap if it doesn't work with these I am screwed." I then ran an ETS 31 round, a 140 sized 22 round and a regular 17 round mag and they all ran with no issues. I then ran a stock Glock 17 rounder and another one with an Arrendondo extension and they all ran fine? I was worried about the Glock big stick so I loaded it back up and it ran fine? I loaded it up again a few more times and had zero issues. I guess it just needed some more rounds through it to knock off the rough edges as it ran for another 150 rds without any issues.
As far as the barrel I am guessing it has one of the new versions in it. I looked for the markings but the gunsmith that built it (I assume he put it together) also did a custom cerakote job on it and the barrel was coated grey so the laser etching PSA does got covered up. My loads were loaded for Glocks so they were probably 1.140" and they seemed to run fine.
The next thing is to work on the buffer and spring and change out the trigger.
Here is a pic of it.
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I was going to suggest the X frame grip when you first posted but you specifically said you didn't want rubber?
I have large hands and the x frame grip is the way to go if you need a hand filling grip. It works perfectly for me and now I have them on all of my "shooting" revolvers 617/610/627/625/929 so now when I shoot them they all feel the same except for the weight differences.
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Shoot those one handed and the gun will unlock and rack the slide back and eject the shell. I used to do that with my 16" pistol grip Remington 870 and tried it with my shockwave and it did the same thing.
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My match load for my S&W 929:
Win Case
3.2 VV N320
160 Bayou sized to .358"
Fed SP
1.170" LOA
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The Tac 14 is Remington's answer to the shockwave. I prefer Remington's but they don't seem to be out yet for sale? I decided to pick up a Mossberg to play with since they are cheap! Fun to play with, I will still get the Tac 14 when it comes out.
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I have large hands and use the X-frame grip on all my S&W revolvers because they fill my grip up and keep me from severely hooking the trigger. I even use them on my 617 10 .22 LR so I have the same feel no matter if I am shooting my 610/625's/627/929. Hogue used to only make them for S&W so they were harder to get but now Brownell's is carrying them so they are easy to get now.
Neal in AZ
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19 hours ago, Hi-Power Jack said:
Same experience - of course no need to use CMJ's or JHP's for mild loads - can use BB's, etc.
I actually started loading this as a super clean load for shooting in my H&K P7M13. I found exposed base FMJ's still gunked up the gas cylinder and closed base JHP's or CMJ's kept it real clean. So when I wasn't shooting up all the CMJ's I had I decided to load some up to shoot in the P7M13. Once I did that I tried them in the other guns to see how they were performing. Yes I know they were very lite (and I should have bumped them up) but they shot OK so I went with it.
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In open I use a 124 CMJ and WAC and when I went back to shooting Limited I decided to load some milder loads using the 124 CMJ and AC (since I had it) to use as a "shooting" load. I found 4.8 grs of AC behind a 124 gr. CMJ gave me right "around" 1,000 fps (950 fps in both my HKP7M13 and my S&W 929 revolver and 1,050 fps in my Glock 17L) in a few different 9mm's and it seemed to burn clean. I figured I could bump it up a bit and get a minor load easily if I wanted but it shot fine so I loaded up some to shoot. Next time I may look at just making it an even 5.0 grs. I also shot some through my 9mm KelTec carbine and they shot well also.
Neal in AZ
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I use the S&W 500 grips on 610/617/627/625/929 so I have the same grip on my revolvers. I appreciate the larger grip with covered backstrap as I have large hands the grips really fill up my grip. They used to be harder to get because Hogue only sold them to S&W but recently Brownell's started carrying them and I was able to pick up the last few I needed. Before that I was having to move them around. I know lots like the wood Hogue grips but those have never worked with my hand type.
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Yes N320 is way too fast. You could use it for a 130 PF steel load but not for making major loads.
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green is for 9mm, 380, small diameter cases etc...
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First off, nice revolver!
I have had my Bill Davis PPC revolver for almost 30 years and the 2.7-2.8 Bullseye load is hard to beat in it. I have tried other fast burning pistol powders and had success with them also. In your case the Vit 310 is the proper burn rate of powder, I would see about trying different bullets like a 148. I have shot lighter weights in mine and had success with them but the 148 is hard to beat.
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I donate my time as a range master at our local range and see lots of these types of things. If I saw it happening I would of course stoop it but usually I just find the cases on the ground after the fact. The 9mm in .40 is very common but I also see the .40 in .45 ACP. A .44 Mag in a .45 Colt will leave you with a case head and some side wall pieces. I had a guy come and shoot 50 rds out of a Makarov and when he left I went over to sweep up the brass (slow day) and found he had been shooting regular 9mm in it. Probably lucky it was an all steel surplus Makarov. The worst ones are when you find rifle cases that have been fired in the wrong chambers and they look like that. .243 in a .308 chamber or a .270 in a 30-06 chamber is common. I also had a guy shot a whole box of ammo trying to sight in a borrowed .300 Win Mag and when he asked me about the side ways bullet holes in the paper I checked his gun and ammunition and found he was shooting 7mm Mag ammo out of it.
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I have large hands with long fingers and also run the X frame Hogue's. They are the best I have found for me as they really fit my hands. I have them on most of my S&W revolvers(610/617/625/627/929) so I have the same feel regardless of the gun I am shooting.
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I always tray up (with plastic 50 rd trays that federal ammo uses) any bullets I use to check for any issues. Not only can you check for problems you can also see when you might have a bullet of a different weight because they are taller or shorter than all the others. I do the same with brass to make sure they are good and there isn't anything inside them or an odd case got mixed in. I also load by trays of primers so I know if something went wrong when I end up with an odd bullet case or primer out.
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I have to pop up and say thanks for this post. I have been having some issues with my 22/45 MKIII with a certain batch of ammo. It seems to be slightly underpowdered and thought about springs like I would with my centerfire guns but didn't know these existed. I know the answer is to change ammo but I have quite a bit of it and figured if I could get a lighter spring I might be able to get it to work. So now that I know this exists I have some options.
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Here you go, the pic below is the scan of the Hornady 9mm data showing WST data.
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let's see some pics!
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Another AR style option is a CNC lower that uses grease gun mags.
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On 3/28/2017 at 8:10 PM, v1911 said:
Wouldn't just buying an SVI Signature/ PT Evo grip be a better solution?
They replicate the shape of a Tanfo, right?
This was my thought also. IF you already shoot a 2011 change the grip and go back to it. Changing guns means starting back from square one on equipment, loads, etc...
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You are experiencing "ringers" as post #2 mentioned. We have been talking about them for years on this board. a quick search for "ringers" and looking for my posts shows they go back to 2008 at least. The post below has a pic of the issues and some discussion. I experienced ringers when I worked for a commercial reloading company while in college back in the 80's. You can keep decapping the brass and see if you get some that will decap correctly but the ones that are ringers are not salvageable and if the majority of the batch are ringers it is easier and less frustrating to just toss it.
http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/topic/216099-odd-primer-problem/#comment-2403905
Neal in AZ
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The first thing is to get the screw out of the bushing so you can then go about installing back in the frame properly. I have found that most of the time it is not in there too tight just hard to get a hold of the bushing without ruining it. The easiest way I have found is to use a pair of wire cutters to grab the bushing (lightly) just above where the threads stop. There is a short space where there is no threads, kind of thin so the wire cutters grab the thin space well. Nice thing is if the bushing spins and the wire cutters rub a bit you can't see the marks anyway when it is installed back in the frame. After you get them apart clean everything up and re-install with locktite, I use blue.
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22 hours ago, Bosshoss said:
That is my work and that is my "IDPA" hammer. "IDPA" requires the gun to not cycle when the cylinder is open and the tang on the back blocks the bolt from coming forward and letting the gun cycle.
USPSA and ICORE or steel gun I remove the tang off the back and make a straight cut with some additional lighting after the straight cut.
IDPA hammer takes a LOT more metal finishing to make look right.
Bosshoss, I didn't know who's work it was to give them credit. I had just saved this pic because of how much metal you took off and when the OP asked for pics of the current hammers that had been lightened I remembered I had it. The USPSA/ICORE hammer is even more amazing, awesome work!
Let's see some pcc's
in Pistol Caliber Carbine
Posted
Went to the High Desert Classic match in Albuquerque, NM a few weeks ago, great match as it always is. It was the 13th annual match so they called it "Lucky 13" and the lucky themed stages had breaking mirrors, starting under a ladder, starting holding a salt shaker which your drop at the beep etc... The club always put on a great match and it didn't disappoint again.
So they always do a random draw prize table and now use practiscore to come up with a random list of the shooters to go to the prize table. Since it was the lucky 13 match the match director hit the random list button 13 times and I guess I was had the luck because I was number one on the list. When I heard my name I was stunned and looked at my buddy to see if I heard him right. Went to the prize table and there was a custom built PSA AR9 donated by Rick Kennedy @ Southwest Gunsmith Technologies www.swguntech.com and I jumped on it. Rick had installed his one of a kind (he is going to produce it but only has his prototypes. He made up one for this rifle) comp on it and also did a custom cerekote job on it also that has the match logo incorporated into it. A real stunning looking rifle and I was proud to win it and extremely thankful for Rick to have made it and donated it.
SO I slapped on a spare red dot and grabbed some 9mm glock mags and went out and ran some rounds through it. It shoots really well, the barrel liked my 124 gr. blue bullet reloads. Probably mess with the trigger and the buffer/spring as most seem to do but figured I would post it up on this thread along with my "lucky" story.