Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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I have a bone stock STI Eagle in 45 ACP and it runs lead 200 SWC's fine. I got new STI mags (had it for 10+ years so Gen 1 mags) with it and have used them with no issues, no tuning needed with mine.
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Down here near the border there is lots of .40 brass around from the Border Patrol. While they use the purple Winchester stuff now you used to find lots of Both the regular Federal and the FC 12 headstamp so I have used both types with no problems.
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My PSA 9mm PCC rifle ran fine with all my glock mags including some new 33's until I loaded the 33's up to full capacity. When breaking it in I didn't bother loading the 33's up to full capacity so I thought everything was fine. When I finally did load the 33 up full I had nose dive jams. Messed around with bullet shapes and OAL with no improvements. I finally just installed the Taccom feed ramp and it started running everything with zero issues.
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I have used FC 12 40 brass quite a bit and have had zero issues with it. I have a batch that I have loaded multiple times for practice and it has been fine.
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I use both the spray and the lotion. The lotion is good for getting a good base coat on the hands and then I use the spray for touch up during the match. Trying to use the lotion to touch up a few lite spots adds too much, the spray is just right.
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It is my understanding that it is some sort of Zinc plating on a brass case and then coated in purple dye. Being down here close to the southern border I see a lot of this stuff since it is used by the Border Patrol. When I first got my hands on some I immediately tried it in my wet tumbler and got the same crappy results. I do know that you can run it in a regular vibratory tumbler and it cleans up decent and loads good. The purple dye will get polished off and it will just be silver but it can be used. I lost interest when I discovered I couldn't wet tumble it plus I still have buckets of the regular stuff.
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Also case volume is a factor for powder burn with light charges, smaller combustion area is better. In my case the volume of the .44 Mag case I was using was a determent, case volume in a .38 spl is much better. As I said, I was a newbie and started using faster burn rate W231 because it was cleaner and got in the habit of using a small brush to keep things clean and never had an issue again.
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18 hours ago, PatJones said:
Looks like a solution to a non-existent problem.
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Pat Jones
Firestone CO
USPSA #A79592
Funny story. Back in the 80's when I got my first revolver (Lew Horton 3" round butt S&W 629) I was shooting it a lot with reloads using 240 gr. lead bullet and Unique powder. One range session I reloaded and could just not get the cylinder closed? It was close but it would lock in and I couldn't see anything wrong that was causing it. I was a relatively new shooter at this point and this was my first revolver so after not being able to troubleshoot the problem I put it away for the session.
Later I took at it to try and find the issue and looked it all over even looking at the part of the cylinder under the extractor star and found nothing. I kept at it and finally looked at the underside of the extractor star and found one perfect flake of unburned Unique stuck to the underside of the star that was causing a headspace problem. A quick brush off and everything was back to normal. It was then I realized than a small thing can put a revolver out of commission. At that time with no internet to consult I actually came to the same conclusion and took a Dremel cutoff wheel and grooved the backside of the extractor star to provide clearance for crud. It made sense at the time but because of this experience I also started regularly brushing under the star on the cylinder and on the back of the star. I also learned the lesson of using a clear burning powder. With the many revolvers that came after that, I never did the Dremel thing again, just kept them clean.
Just a story to show that it can be a problem. Now if I had not had that problem back then and started cleaning my revolvers properly (and using cleaner powder) I would have never known it could be a problem. With the internet shortening the learning curve for shooters today, it is probably not an issue anymore.
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Typically seating stems are for round nosed or truncated cone bullets. Been awhile since I loaded on the SD but I assume that is what is on the machine. If you are talking about seating full wadcutters (not semi wadcutters) Then you typically want a flat stem. Sometimes you can seat WC's with the RN/TC stems but sometimes it doesn't work especially if you are working with soft swaged WC's. If they are cast WC's they will probably me more resistant to deformation but you have to try and see.
Something I have done in the past to make a regular seating die work for full swaged WC's is to back the seating stem out and stick one of the WC's backwards into the seating die and then use it to seat some test WC's. The WC will get seated/compressed and now act as a solid faced seating plug to seat WC's since it will not compress anymore after the initial seating. You can still screw the seating stem up and down like a normal seating die. The good thing is since it is not a permanent modification you can just pop it out and keep it with the conversion and reuse it when needed.
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I just dropped one of my G20 10mm mags with the large Arredondo 140mm extension into the gauge and it dropped right in, perfect fit.
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Primers are two pieces and when the primer is seated to the correct depth it is "set" or "cocked" and then it is ready to get hit by the FP. If it is not seated correctly then it is not set so it doesn't go off when hit. That is why if it goes off with a second hit many times the first hit "set" the primer so the second hit will then set it off. Simplistic explanation but it gets the point across.
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15 hours ago, AustinWolv said:
McFadden Lightning loader
I second this recommendation, but I also think it is the only real option available?
I use mine quite a bit and it makes it real easy to load my 5x mags at a time.
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Collet style pullers don't work with coated or lead bullets, inertia is the only way to pull those without ruining them. Some profiles of 9mm fmj's are tough to grab with a collet unless you totally distort the bullet and if you really want them pulled you need to pull them it takes inertia.
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I had 2x gen 1's in .40 (sold off 1x off to a friend) and they both ran fine with reloads and some hot LE ammo I have laying around. I picked up a gen 2 in 9mm and it also have been running great with lead reloads and hot JHP ammo. I really like them, lots of fun to shoot. The only thing is being a big dude I have a hard time getting down on the sights. On the gen 2 I put on one of those Midwest Industries scope mounts so I could mount a red dot. It seems high on the gun but it turns out it is perfect for me and works well.
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A SAKO style pivoting extractor built into the replaceable breach face. Interesting.
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No, I have done it with the same mags. I have a 90's SV open gun with a bunch (3x170's & 3x140's) 1st gen mags that was chambered in 9x23. I had it re-barreled into 9mm and the mags run fine with no changes.
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1 hour ago, Toolguy said:
Ron also invented the Wichita Rib, shown on the .44 above, and licenced the manufacturing to Wichita Arms in Wichita, KS. They also made many bolt action and break open pistols for shooting Metallic Silhouette.
They also made a nice adjustable rear sight that was an alternative to a BoMar. While the BoMar was square and sharp the Whichita had a nicely rounded body and rear blade. I had one sunk into a Tanfoglio back in the 90s and whish I had bought more.
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I have my bench set up with my Dillon 650 and 550 and a single stage. I have the holes drilled for my shot shell presses and Star lube sizer but it is a PITA to clear off the junk to mount them so I just don't use them like I should. I started using the Inline system and now it is easy to pop off my Single stage press and mount the lube sizer or one of the three shot shell presses.
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Was using my STI Spartan in .45 ACP until I got this a few years ago.
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I sent my Rem 11-87 Police to Hans back in the 90's when he was still in CA. It is a great shooting HD gun. Throughout the years I have used a lot of his accessories, I like his mag extensions and his big dome safety button. I was glad to see he finally got out of CA and came here to AZ.
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If you are using the small rifle plate (that is what I use) you need to slide the metal clip over in the drop opening so the cases drop correctly.
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18 hours ago, Explosiveo said:
What does everyone think about shooters world Clean Shot?
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
Basically the old version of Accurate #2 before they went to a different manufacturer. It is great stuff, meters well and burns clean.
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Until I changed my bench around my 650 was located real close to the garage door. My wife would complain at times about the case feeder noise coming into the house. I found that if I draped a folded beach towel (bigger so I had 3x layers ) over the feeder it really cut down on the noise. Also if the towel went down the sides of the feeder it also seemed to deaden the noise coming through the plastic sides of the feeder also.
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On 1/13/2020 at 7:47 AM, FENWICK7 said:
curios about Adjustable Main Spring Tension System ?
will call them
I was expecting some info about this? I am curious what it is?
750 High primer ratio
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
Your problem is that the CCI primers are slightly larger in diameter than other brands. They are still within tolerances, just larger. Learned this long ago when I used to hand prime all my reloads. The CCI were always harder to get in the pockets and almost impossible in Mil cases. I use CCIs on some batches of brass when regular primers start going in a little too easy. I found CCI primers have just a bit more friction and lets me continue to use the brass.
Since the 750 is manually primed by you pushing the handle on the return stroke you should feel the resistance and know if the primer is fully seated by the feel and distance of the return stoke. Been running a 650 since 1995 and I know the primers are seated fully by how far I push the handle forward on the return stoke and can feel when the primer seats in the bottom of the pocket.