Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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Hornady published load data for WST in 9mm at one time.
I use WST for loading shotshells and started using it for .45 ACP. Found it to be a great clean shooting powder for 9/38/40/10/45 loads using lead bullets and use it all the time for regular loads. Loaded my .40 major loads with it for many years and always had good results.
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I also tried cutting down RP .38 Sepcial brass to Mid and had issues with the internal case taper. I ended up cutting down a batch of Federal .38 brass to mid length and it worked well.
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On 11/19/2019 at 8:27 AM, Sarge said:
Could it have been static discharge that set it off? If you barely touched it that seems just as likely a cause as anything. If flash hole was exposed static may have set off powder instead of primer if the round was loaded.
I guess it is possible? The round was not loaded, I caught it when it was misprimed at the priming station.
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22 hours ago, MJinPA said:
I always worked under the assumption that you needed a direct impact on the primer and never considered that they can be unstable once damaged.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkSo did I and that was why I was really surprised when it went off. I had picked out sideways primers that had not been shoved in all the way before without any issues but this one was more mangled than normal. Been reloading for 30+ years and that was a new one on me.
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This was causd by the damagd primer. Primer are sensitive and once damaged like that they can be super sensitive and can be set off very easy. Never would have known but I had a primer go in a case off center/sideways while reloading. I felt it go in bad so I took the case out of the priming station and was going to pick the primer out with a small pick I have on the bench. I went to pick out the messed up primer and it went off. Suprised the heck out of me and I was fortunate that I had my saftey gear on.
So in this case you damaged the primer and the shock of the hammer puller made it go off. Nothing wrong with the hammer puller for regular rounds with undamaged primers.
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Need to make sure you got the right dies for the right rifle. The chambers are different (slight differences) between the 1911 and the K31. The Lee dies work for the 1911 chamber but will overwork the brass if used to load for the K31. Hornady and Rdding dies are the correct dimension for loading for the K31.
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Until Lee started making thier dies longer they all were too short for the Dillons. standard fix has always been to use the lock nut on the bottom of the tool head.
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I had that rubber tipped overtravel screw in my Bill Davis PPc revolver. It was strange so I just made sure it was screwed in enough to not affect the trigger pul. I have very large hands and long fingers and stumbled on the "techniqe" (Described by the OP) myself when I first started shooting revolvers. I have never liked the 'Staging" way of shooting revolvers so while I could make it work I never used it. I shoot my revolvers using a smooth even pull and use the X frame Hogue grips on all my revolvers (including the 617) for propper trigger finger placement.
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It is about bullet and case friction. A 115 gr.bullet being shorter has less bullet seated in the case so less friction. A heavier bullet will have more since there is more bullet in the case. If you are using factory ammo that will be the only way to affect this, try a heavier bullet/load.
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When I got my MAX .40 I had full intentions on getting a set of Tripp mags but since the gun came with a few of the Wilson 47NX 10mm mags I figured I would test them out by using them to break in the pistol before match use. I ran quite a few rounds through the gun breaking it in and getting used to it and had zero problems with the mags so I just decided to order a few more (since I already had some) and use them figuring if I ended up having problems then I could go with the trips. Hd the mags fora few yesrs no and still have no issues.
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The Lee facotry crimp die is made to work on loaded ammo and would do the resizing you need and may or may not affect the bullet sizing. I typically dont use mine for loaded ammo but I do use it to size down my 9mm brass for my revolver since it sizes down further on the case than the Dillon dies odes and makes the ammo chamber better.
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14 hours ago, NuJudge said:
Get the attachment to power it from an electric hand drill, or you will get Carpal Tunnel:
I got that for mine and use a power screwdriver rather than a drill as they ar smaller and lighter than a drill.
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Two different clubs and ranges:
Pima Pistol Club: https://pimapistolclub.com/
Southern Arizona Pratical Shooters at 3 point range (Tucson Rifle Club) : http://www.tucsonrifleclub.org/Tactical_Intro.shtml
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11 hours ago, ShrinkMD said:
Also, I'm wondering if other people were able to switch shell plates from 45 to 45AR, and not have to readjust any of the dies on the toolhead?
I was able to do that on my 550, worked good.
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+1
Just about all of my revolvers have the X frame Houge grip. I have larger hands and like how they feel. I had various types of grips but most end up feeling too thin and didn't fill out my grip. I put them on my competition revolvers and then just put them on most of my other revolvers (610, 625's etc...) even if they aren't for competition. Now when I pick up and shoot a revolver they feel exactly the same.
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Unfortunatley, there is not any one in SV that I could recommend, specifically for 2011's. SV is a small town and the gunsmiths that are here are more oriented towards general repair and rifles.
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Those loadbooks just complie data directly from other books. That data in particular is originally from Hornday, very distinctive how the data is displayed.
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17 hours ago, EEH said:
I’ve had mine longer than that ,and I don’t plan to get rid of it anytime soon.
I got my 650 back in 1995 and have been running it hard ever since, loaded countless amounts of ammo on it. I had a refurbed by Dillon a whike back and it is still going strong. I really like the rotary priming system, the one on my 550 is always a PITA. I guess I can see why Dillon made this change (simplicity and less customer issues) but I think it is step backwards.
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My general shooting load for CS is the same as it was when I loaded it as the original #2. 4.0 gr. behing a 124 gr. lead/coated bullet in 9mm is my standard shooting load. I cant tell you how many thousands of that load I have loaded and shot. It ill get you in the ball park and you can adjust from there.
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N320 & WST both fast burning so they shoot clean.
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1 hour ago, Timido said:
Now I'm putting a *thumb rest [generic]* on my PCC.
https://www.speedshooter.com/product_detail.cfm?id=GG-GPRS&gogun-ar-15-polymer-gas-pedal
I got a few of these one year at the Nationals. Put one on my 1522 and it didn't work out well for me due to my large hands.
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4 hours ago, rowdyb said:
where i live in San Antonio we had the same thing at 3pm yesterday. multiple houses in my neighbor hood had their garage doors blown off, doors to houses blown off, tons of shingles gone, cars smashed by fallen trees, fences smashed by fallen trees. it went from totally clear to chaos and then done in 2 hours.
My son is up just north of Austin and they got hit by the weather about the same time so it was big.
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I also have never had a primer detonation on my 650 (got the 650 in 1995) using all brands of primers especially Federals for my revolvers. The funny thing is years ago Lee specifically said they do not recommend using Federal primers in their hand primers. Not sure if they still do but I remember reading and looking into it before deciding that I was going to anyway.
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I have one on one of my 625's and Dawson's on all the rest. It works good but I prefer the Dawson's for the smaller FO.
The hacks,short cuts and money savers thread: How you save money and s
in Little things I've Noticed
Posted
I have used it for many years to clean guns. Important to get the non-chlorinated versions, usually in a green can. The non-chlorinated brake cleaners affect less types of polymers than the regular brake cleaners.