Intel6
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Posts posted by Intel6
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7 minutes ago, acpie360 said:
Do these "indentations" serve any purpose?
Those are where I grab the drum as it provides more ledge for me to grab.
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I grab it by the rolling ring on opposite sides with my fingers and then use my thumbs to hit the longer wings on the cap to give equal force tightening.
I also make sure to wet the rim of the drum and the top of the clear plastic cap to provide "lube" so everything slides smoothly.
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In the case of the 929 the cylinder does not have the recessed cut for the moonclip. The cylinder is like a 625 as it is used to headspace rimless ammo. So in the case of using .38 SC brass the moonclip actually sits on top of the cylinder and headspaces the round so if there is no clip then there is too much headspace. Just got 100 SC cases to try them out in my 929 using my 627 clips.
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Since they both come from the same mould there is no reason why they shouldn't.
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I must have missed this initially? Regarding the Redding Profile Crimp, I have been using them for 20+ years and 57K was all over it, including the Wiley Clapp reference. I did a bunch of testing in various calibers (.32 S&WL/.32 MAG/38 SPL/357 MAG/44 MAG/45 Auto Rim/45ACP) using various crimp dies and always had better results with the PC. I tested the differences using my Ransom Rest for accuracy and my chronograph for consistency. Sometimes it wasn't a significant difference and sometimes (like with my Bill Davis PPC revolver) there were significant improvements in accuracy and load consistency. After doing those tests, I have never used anything different.
As you can see this is only concerning revolver cartridge Profile Crimp dies as I believe the auto loading cartridge PC's are just regular taper crimp dies.
Neal in AZ
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Back in the 90's when I had my Caspian open gun built Wayne Bergquist was the guy. He built a lot of competition stuff on Caspian hicap frames so I chose him.
He is still around and I assume building still. And he is in Naples so you could drive down and talk with him directly.
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Going to be in the high 80's today.
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I have a 6" limited gun with a lightened slide (to the weight of a 5") and busing bbl. I use the 12.5 lb recoil spring and 165 JHP's.
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I load 45-70 for my Marlin 1895SBL and the issue with levers is the round being too long. The way the feed system of the Marlin works short will work fine but too long and it will jam up.
So in your case you are overthinking this and can seat the bullets to the crimp groove and crimp. It sounds like the bullets you got are specifically for the 45-70 as 405 gr is a common weight and they will have the crimp groove in the right place. It is when you get past 400 gr or so some bullets may not be made to load in the lever guns but made for single shot 45-70's.
As an example in the pic attached below you can see the two rounds to the right are 45-70's. The one is loaded with what is called a collar button which is a lightweight bullet made for short range shooting/plinking in the 45-70. Next to it is a 350 RNFP which is a 45-70 bullet loaded to regular 45-70 length. As you can see the collar button is very short compared to the 350. Both of these rounds function fine in my1895 SBL so also long as it isn't too long it will work fine. The second bullet from the right is a 500 gr. bullet that could be loaded in a 45-70 for use in a single shot. You can see if it was loaded in the 45-70 case it would be too long for the lever gun. I use them for loading them in my .458 SOCOM for use in an AR15.
Neal in AZ
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Pretty normal from my experience. I had two stock Glock 24's and shooting the same ammo through both of them across a chrono yielded different results.
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Depends on what you are loading it for?
If it is a lever gun then LOA is important for proper feeding. If it is a single shot then it doesn't matter as much.
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Zombywoof gave a great overview, I do something very similar with my casting and HT coating.
When someone talks about starting in casting I always question them on why they want to. If it is to make large amounts of bullets to shoot USPSA then I will say unless you have a great source of lead and a decent amount of time you would be better off just buying coated lead bullets from one of the normal vendors to our sport. Casting has changed from what it was in years past. In the past lead wheel weights were common and a cheap(or free) source of lead that was everywhere. That made casting very attractive but now most of the wheel weights are being made out of something else so the main source of lead caster used is drying up. When the lead is free/super cheap then the time and equipment needed to keep you shooting is worth it but when you have to start paying a decent price for the lead to start with plus your time and equipment then just buying them starts to make a lot more sense.
I started casting to be able to make bullets for odd calibers/weights or ones that were expensive even though they were cast lead like heavy weight gas checked bullets for .44 mag. This wasn't so bad because I wasn't using up much lead. Then since I had the equipment I decided to make handgun bullets in quantity and while it was not too much trouble and I could get a decent production rate running two six cavity moulds at once I found I was going through my lead much faster. Since I don't have a giant supply of lead I realized that I could buy lead to cast but then I was getting into what I discussed above. These days I just buy bullets for my competition guns, blue for the autos and Bayou for my revols. I still am casting a lot but it is mostly bullets for my milsurp rifles (303B/54R/8x56R) my 30-30 and 45-70 lever guns and lower quantity bullets for my handguns 357/10mm/44/45 Colt.
I guess I rambled but I think you get the idea.
Neal in AZ
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I just used the reverse plug below and then you can just use regular 5" springs.
http://www.shootersconnectionstore.com/Caspian-Reverse-Plug-Long-Slide-6-P1957.aspx
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I like the Blue bullets as well as Bayou and I cast and coat my own with HiTek which is what Bayou and S&S use.
The blue on the fingers is just coating dust from the bullets rubbing together in shipment. Just because your fingers get some of this on them doesn't mean they are bad or the coating is coming off. I don't think anyone should take it as a sign of poor quality. IF it was bad enough to where there was bare lead showing on the bullets then I would think there is an issue.
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That looks like the guy off the Desert Classic (Area 2) logo. I would guess that that is a Caspian (sponsored the match for ever?) slide and they engraved it and it was put on the prize table. In years past I have seen slides on the prize table with logos and the match name, year etc.. so the answer to your question is Caspian.
Neal in AZ
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I have a stock STI Eagle in .45 ACP and have just run the factory mags without any issues at all? The only issues I had was when I found the ammo loaded to fit in a SS mag may be slightly too long for the doublestack mag. After I figured I needed to load all my .45 ACP ammo to fit the doublestack mags I have had no issues.
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By the looks of them they are like the SV mags without the smooth sides which work with either .38 Super or 9mm. The STI mags have those indents/inside ribs that cause issues with 9mm unless it has spacers installed. The smooth sided mags work with both .38 and 9mm so I assume they are marked 9mm but work with both.
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This works real well. I do this when I load on my 650 (or 550) and use my Chargemaster to dispense powder.
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Told yah...Well Eric did first
Glad it worked for you like it did for me. Funny how that support hand is supported also isn't it. I wasn't expecting that but really appreciated it after I started using them.
Neal in AZ
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I spray a few shots into a gallon ziplock bag, pour in 200 cases and massage the cases around in the bag to distribute the lube on the outside of the cases only. No lube in the cases no problems with powder sticking in the cases.
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I used the standard one also. I didn't realize they made different sizes and didn't want to break down my gun and measure the 80's parts because I was shooting it. Just ordered the standard one and it fit fine and wasn't really loose or too small, seemed to work fine.
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Do you have to be a member of ICORE to shoot this match?
If not what do you use for a classification? USPSA Classification?
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While mine shot pretty good with it in I did get a spacer and took it out and now it is even better.
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Good News. Eddie is a great guy and it is no surprise he squared you away. I am interested to see what you think when you get it.
929 hammer choices
in Revolver Forum
Posted · Edited by Intel6
here is a pic of one. This is heavily lightened but may help you with locations to lighten however much you want.