want2race

Perhaps not ideal for the fastest draw but when a holster prevents my thumb from forming a full grip I put it on the back of the slide. Same placement as when I reholster, thumb on the back of the slide. Anyway, right as the gun clears the holster my thumb drops down into position. I have do this with my concealment holster and it works pretty good. I use a Hellweg for Production and I just heated up the Kydex and spaced it out further due for thumb clearance.

The clencher for me using a 5 is the overall feel of the initial take up. The pull feels the same all the way until it "stacks". Then a nice clean break. With the 3.5 I can feel the cruciform dragging off the firing pin as it is released. The overall pull length is the same from start to finish, but the 3.5 is like 50/50. Half easy, half stiff (pulling down releasing the FP). With the 5 it is more like 80/20. The easy phase is longer but once it stacks, it's very short. Shorter reset too. It will never feel like a 1911 trigger, but I still like it a lot. That being said, the guy I sold my 34 to still wants a 3.5 connector so it's not for everyone. I dropped in a 5 before my last match and proved my ideas (even if only to myself). With the longer "mush" phase of the 3.5 I was more apt to pull rounds. I was actually faster, and placed the rounds better, with the shorter breaking 5. Just my preference, but I would certainly suggest playing around with different trigger set ups until you find THE ONE. Glocks are the pistol version of the AR15.

Take mag out and look at the bottom of the slide through the mag well. Pull the trigger (ensure it's empty first) slowly and you can see exactly when the trigger bar engages the firing pin safety. I limit the pretravel on my triggers based on that, then modify the trigger safety so that it still engages and works as designed. It can be done. Not too difficult. Don't change the angle on the back side of the trigger safety, you just want to reduce the thickness front to back. Don't bevel the very bottom or you'll run the risk of it not working as intended. As long as you keep the original angle it will still work as it was designed. When running stronger trigger springs with reduced firing pin springs, sometimes the trigger doesn't return far enough to engage the safety (when trigger is released slowly for example), that's when I started messing with the trigger safety. If you muck it up, it's a $7.00 part to start over. As long as the cruciform (left tab) is still sitting on the forward shelf of the trigger mech housing, the drop safety will remain intact. My 35 came with a Vanek, but it did not have any pretravel adjustment or reduction. I do my own anyway so it was no big deal. I think the Ghost connector is a better way to limit post travel, over the set screw that Vanek uses. The cruciform flexes a great deal after it hits the set screw (that limits the post travel). Basic physics of "a lever". This flex makes for a mushy feeling trigger. I run a 5 connector because I don't like mush.

The serial starts with a G. I did some more work to it today. Got the magwell installed and had the same issues as when I put it on my old 34. The mags didn't fall free. I'm not shy about using a Dremel or files. Fixed the problem. Did the trigger as well. I really prefer the 5lbs connector over the 3.5, so for now I installed the stock connector from my 23c. Pretravel and post-travel corrected and it feels great. This one came with a Vanek kit in the spares box so I didn't need to do as much polishing as normal. Still need to peen the slide to tighten it up a bit. One huge thing about shooting Ltd over Prod is that I can modify the frame. Something I've wanted to do since I started shooting Glocks. The right side of the trigger guard does not agree with the 1st knuckle on my middle finger on stock Glock frames. It fits like a Glove now. I'll wrap some Tru-Grip on it and call it done. For now.

I guess it's an option from Glock now. The removal was pretty clean, there is a slot in the backstrap where the indicator used to be. I could fill it with black epoxy but I don't really care since I bought this gun to beat the crap out of anyway. The grip will see files and the dremel before I'm done. Just an FYI before your next used Glock purchase, watch for keys.

So I pull my "new for me" G35 out and notice why the mag well was not removed as per the sale arrangement. It was glued on because there was an ILS lurking beneath it. I don't know the brand of magwell, but I don't like it so I pulled it off. The glue broke free without too much force. I really liked my ICE magwell from my 34 and planned to put it on my 35. The ILS had to come out before the brass insert could be installed. There are two small pins visable from the magazine well that appear to lock the ILS in place. They are set in blind holes. After firing up the drill press and running some holes through the locking mech (from the bottom, drilling upwards towards the slide rails) and the plastic around it the ILS wasn't budging. I was able to convince the little pins to come out but the mech still wasn't moving. Basically, I drilled completely through it several times before it would let go. Once I drilled completely through the brass locking mechanism, progress was made. The piece that blocks the trigger bar (when locked) spins freely once the locking mech is removed. The epoxy is setting up right now that will fix it in the "unlocked" position. I'll see how it goes together tomorrow.

The 34 and 35 locking blocks are listed as two different parts in the Glock armorer book. However, they "look" identical. I'd give them a call and find out for sure. They are $10 or $15 I think, my book is at work. The trigger control mech with ejector is $3. Might as well swap that over. Trigger with trigger bar is the same. S

..and you will get those 3 points quick, and then some. You were rollin last time out.

Woot woot. New USPSA card should be in the mail soon. Finally shot enough classifiers to get a rank.

BGSL runs an IPSC three gun, first sunday of the month. Some just shoot the pistol. KAPS is in Bardstown. It's an hour and 10 minutes from Lex. Fourth Sunday of the month. Two other clubs shoot just north of Louisville. They shoot USPSA and steel. If one was so inclined, they could shoot a match every weekend while driving less than 2 hours from Lexington.

Yep, SLP is basically a short SX2. I haven't had any issues with me shell catch so far. I just wanted to be able to shoot shells other than the Long Range stuff, the fireball that comes out of the breech end is fun at the range but not good for night vision. I want to try some reduced recoil slug and 00 buck now.

Yep.

Shot fluffy today. 3.23 clean in limited 10 with my G34. Kind of suprised myself with that one. This should seal the deal, no more U class in Ltd 10.

Light loads: My SLP would not run them (with the "light" piston). I've never even installed the heavy piston since I don't shoot over 1 1/4 oz loads. I have had to shoot the Express Long Range shells, 00 buck or slug rounds for it function properly. Anything else and my semi auto was reduced to a bolt action single fire. I went through the easy stuff first, cleaned, lubed, proper function. Everything was in order but it just didn't like anything with a short brass shell (light powder). I bought it "pre-broken in" so I don't think that it was just tight. I'm posting this incase anyone else has the same problem. I have fixed it, finally. There are two gas ports in the gas block, both are 1/8th according to my drill bit gages. I bored one out to 9/64. Tested with Sluggers, 00 buck, #4 Express long range shells first, followed by Win AA 1 1/8oz, 7 1/2 shot; Federal 1oz, 7 1/2 and some odd ball Remington 1oz, 8 shot. The last time I tried the last two shell types listed my SLP would not even cycle enough to partially eject the hull. I was so excited I was nearly giddy. The SLP chewed up everything without so much as a fart. Felt recoil was unchanged. The gas system is "self regulating" so I'm not worried about excess gas pressure. I wonder if the gas ports are the same size as the 22" SX2's? I figured the barrel was too short for the gas port size. When I cut down my FAL barrel I had to adjust the gas port in the same manner to get reliable function. BTW, I only use this in side matches and for self gratification.

Since we are talking triggers here I'd like to add some things I've been working on. Pretravel. After polishing the FP safety and lighting the spring a bit I limited the forward travel so that the trigger bar bump (that depresses the FP safety) sits just in front of it. In the stock trigger, there are really three stages. Pretravel, depression of the FP safety, then finally releasing the firing pin. All three can be felt quite easily. Swapping the FP safety spring to a lighter one greatly reduces it, but you can still feel it. I've eliminated the pretravel without effecting the FP safety function. You can see this by looking in the mag well will cycling the trigger. The rear of the trigger safety must be reduced to allow it to still clear the frame and be fully functional. This is what I believe may be questionable in Production. I'm into full blown limited mods next so this one didn't really matter. I accomplished the pretravel elimination by adding a vertical pin in the trigger housing. The cruciform (left tab) hits the pin and that limits the travel. The cruciform still sits on the drop safety portion when forward, so I still have not bypassed that safety either. Finally, the post travel. I switched to a 5 lbs connector first. I added another vertical pin in the trigger housing ($13 part from Glock if you botch it). The forward edge of the pin limits the rearward movement of the cruciform. Once pin is installed, it is filed back untill the firing pin can be released upon trigger pull. Unfortunately, the trigger bar and cruciform area flex a great deal when using the pin as a post travel stop. I fixed this by adding a trigger stop attached directly to the back of the trigger. I installed it on the right side since I am right handed and it does not affect the trigger safety. The trigger now feels like close to a 4 lbs 1911 trigger, but with a longer pretravel (long if it was a 1911 trigger). Once this Glock trigger is stacked, it needs less than 1/8th inch to break. That also means the reset is now about 1/8th of an inch as well. Much, MUCH shorter. I test fired it last night and it will take some getting used to, but is very nice. Very short. I prefer the short over the softer but longer 3.5lbs connect that came in the 34 stock. I may try using a Ghost Rocket, but this was free and those aren't. No matter what I do to this thing, it still works. I really thought I'd have some issues but so far it just keeps working. I forgot to add that I started with the RS kit with the light FP and FP safety and a heavy trigger spring.

It's not entirely dead, just for the RA. The SOF guys are still shopping. From what I heard, the XP was the ONLY pistol not to come back in pieces or with pieces. I was honestly suprised. I still don't care for them, but good to hear they held up. I won't mention names, but the 1911's tested came back in many pieces. The Glock came back with pieces (a few broken parts). Of course the upside to glock breakages is the cost of repair parts. Dirt cheap. Simple to work on too. I guess the testing is pretty stout.

The JCP, now CP since the army dropped out, seems to have been written for the HK .45. HK's answer was a modified USP. Since big army dropped out, the need for a manual safety was too. G19's are quite the rage right now. It will be years before the Army actually adopts anything new. Hell the SCAR was suppose to be distributed awhile ago but I won't have any until March.

In my limited experience, I do better pumped up. I do what I'm supposed to do, not what I think I should be doing. I don't mean 175bpm heart rate, but slightly elevated and adrenaline flowing a bit. My auto pilot kicks in then. If I'm relaxed I don't move as fast and I have time to think. That always equates to poor performance for me. Plus, I have more fun if the juice is flowing.

My Arredondo's needed a little work to get the 23'd round in without a fight. I shaved a little off the back of the follower, now it fits 23 and a half. I reduced the height of the the back of the follower, just to be clear. I wanted the last round to be able to compress to ease reloading with slide forward. If you do well in Limited, I give you about a week before you order a Ghost (or similar). I did exactly what you are talking about, last month. Stepped up big with the little bullet that could. It's fun.

Agreed, sights first. I like Dawson, but it doesn't matter really. I installed a Dawson Ice magwell. I like the replacable insert. Pain in the ass to install, no instructions. Of course I figured it out, but damn, a little note with some tips would have been great. I'll just say that it fits VERY, VERY tight. It actually squeezed the mag opening on the grip enough to hold magazines from dropping free. Little work and everythings fine, actually kind of enjoyable. I like a good fight. I really like it. Good weight, I got the lighter of the two, but not too heavy. Don't know if it will fit into the IPSC box.

3.90 and 3.76 today, one Charlie. HF of 12.7937, bottom A class. First time using the Ghost shooting a, now limited class, G34. My reloads were not as smooth as in practice. Choked. I made a personal improvement of over 2 seconds at least.

I was confronted with one stage awhile back that was tough to plan. Start with gun on barrel (unloaded gun). All mags on belt only. I only carried 3 mags on the belt because normally 4 total mags is plenty for production. Well, this stage was designed to mess with ME I guess. 28 round stage, set up with two 10 round arrays and an 8. Kind of, depending on how you shot it. That gave me 2 spare shots for the stage. There was some movement involved but not that I could easily coordinate with reloads. Most shooters just shot till slide lock twice, based on the paper targets. I wanted to avoid that if I could. There were two clamshells spaced far enough apart (the way I ran the stage) that I planned my reloads based around them. Both reloads were done after hitting the activating popper, reloading while clamshell was in motion, engaging it before it finished. My plan was different and I was lightly ribbed for it. I planned both reloads for after each steel popper. I didn't have to worry about counting or running out of rounds (with no misses). PING! reload.

I had one other issue when installing the magwell. the front portion of the grip was squeezed inward a little bit. This caused a serious drag on the magazine. The magwell fits so tight that it squeezed the bottom of the grip frame. A little work with a round file and sanding drum (dremel) took care of it.

Cool. I've never seen anyone load like that, raising the gun. I'll definitely work on that. Thanks for the video.

I put this together today as a training aid. You can mute it if you don't like the music (this is your warning). The last two I tried leaving the gun up higher. Stock Glock19 but using an extended G17 mag and mag holder in Ltd position on belt. The last one also shows my finger clearly out of the trigger guard. I'd been wondering lately what my finger does when I reload at speed. Now I know. I worked with my new timer today too, finally bought one. I was able to reload and pull the trigger on target right at 1.5 (par time). Not all the time, about 70%. At least it's a start. http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=944148875356863872