anomad

I have done some 22 sillywet matches. Went the whole 10/22 route at first, spent a lot of money to be almost as good as the bolt guns. Decided to do an experiment. Put a 4-14x Barska on my Marlin 60C with whatever rings I had laying around. Despite the trigger and cheap scope I can shoot almost as high a score as the worlds most expensive 10/22. My next project is a Savage bolt action.

Nice job.

I think H4895 is a little "crunchy" through the Dillon powder measure. It wouldn't always snap into position without a little nudge. I went with their powder adapter and use my lyman. Although it does add a step to reach up and actuate the powder drop.

Very interesting test Mike, thanks for taking the time to write it up.

Maybe there is something to those light triggers?? I think I kind of over-did it on the dry firing. So how much material can I remove by sharpening the trigger hook before it won't work anymore? I would have to take off quite a good bit (thats a scientific unit) to get it really sharp. Its probably 2 pounds now.

Thanks for all the replies fellas. In a fit of caffeine induced euphoria this morning I took the stone to the trigger hook and sharpened it up. Can't push of SA notch now, made the let off a little more crisp, although its still a little on the light side. DA trigger still abominable, but enough dry firing and spinach and I should be ok......after this blister heals. I have given my lil' trigger finger a nice blister dry firing. [Ricky] Its not a rocket appliance [/Ricky] I learned something this weekend!

Thanks HSMITH. I found this: http://smith-wessonforum.com/eve/forums/a/...04/m/6171078242 Yeah, the SA trigger is not trustworthy on this gun right now, so if I make it DA only its a net gain. Doesn't bother me either. I don't want to start grinding on the trigger too and have to buy two new parts if I can get by with one. After taking the trigger out and looking at it closely, that appears to be the guilty party. its very much rounded off. Could have happened at the same time the hammer spur got cracked, wouldn't surprise me at all. I have some good stones, i might try sharpening it up. The hammer has a pretty clean notch, so I am leaning towards blaming the trigger and either an accident or an over zealous trigger job.

Yeah baby! You should see me with an arc welder and a grinder! That's scary. I am trying not to turn this into the worlds most expensive model 10. I wanted it to be a budget classic carry piece, but its already gone over-budget. I'm also a little miffed that the reputable gunsmith I sent it to 'dropped the ball' on the action tuning. Sending it back to Smith would be at least another hundred bucks. So how hard is it to fit a new hammer if I hate DA only? I don't want to use light springs that require super special reloads to go bang, that's not how I roll. My little angel on my shoulder says I should use this as a learning experience and go for it.

Here's the story. I picked up a model 10 (CAI import) a while back at a pawn shop for pretty cheap. Finish was a disaster but it didn't look like it had been shot much. I sent it off to be rust blued and have the action gone through. The DA trigger was not smooth or light and the SA trigger was scary light. Well, the bluing turned out good (a rust blue job, almost a matte finish). The SA trigger is still scary.....and it pushes off, which ain't good. The 'smith found the hammer spur was cracked when he nickel plated it. The DA trigger is H-E-A-V-Y, but smoother than it was. Didn't come back the carry gun I was hoping for. So, as my tiny brain thinks about this . I would like to hear if folks think this would be a good platform to mutilate with my dremel and convert to double action only? It would fix the cracked hammer spur and single action scariness by telling those functions bye bye. I would have to do something about the heavy DA trigger though, like dry fire it 5 million times a day and eat a lot of spinach. I haven't researched lighter springs yet, reliability is a must. Worse come to worse I guess it would cost me a new hammer and maybe having it 'professionally' fitted.

I haven't loaded short colt, but I have a lot of plain 38 smith and wesson, and of course 38 special. I concur about swaged leading much worse than hard cast. Laser Cast or the like just don't seem to lead unless they are smokin hot loads. Might want to try a smaller outfit like www.tennesseevalleybullets.com I just got 1500 38 DEWC's from him delivered for about 100 bucks.

I have had the same failure to extract you describe, although in a G22, using a LWD 9mm conversion barrel (no other modifications). It happens every 1000 rounds or so with cast round nose bullets if I get weak in the powder department. If I keep the loads on the warmer side (I would have to check my books) it happens less frequently. I chalked it up to a weakness of a conversion barrel, based on my and others experiences. Good luck, glad the TC bullets run better for you.

I am a little surprised that the consensus here is not to carry hand loaded ammo. Seems like what kind of ammo you used would be a small matter in a self defense shooting. At least, rather low on the list of things that would get you in deep doo-doo. I know there are many cases that involve over penetration with your average 9mm ball ammo. But I don't know of any where someone got framed as a whacko for reloading their own ammo. Could certainly happen though and is easily prevented, if that sorta thing keeps you awake at night.... We have a 442 in the house and the trigger is quite heavy, but it smooths up nicely with use and a little lube. But I wouldn't hesitate to tune one up for carry. There are a number of reasons for advising against handloads. First off, none of us can make better, more consistent, more reliable ammo than the manufacturers. Yes, it's possible to tune your handloads so that they're more accurate, achieve higher velocities, etc in your particular gun, but that doesn't mean it's "better". Not only that, but they're the ones doing ballistics testing in various media etc....none of that is easily done by a hobbyist. With all of that aside, why allow anyone the opportunity to attack your intentions in court? If you are forced to defend yourself and get questioned in court why you used a particular "deadly ammo" you can say "it's what the expert at the gun shop, or the gun magazine recommended" and there really isn't anywhere further for that line to go. It doesn't matter if you know ten times more about guns and ammo than the gun shop guy, or the magazine writer...the jury doesn't know that and nobody can blame you for taking the advice of "professionals". I've taken this line of thinking one step further. I purchased identical ammo to my duty ammo to keep in my personal guns. In the unlikely event I have to use one of them while I'm at home and can't get to my issued guns, I already have an out. Why did I use that ammo? If they did the research (they did) and determined it was good enough to issue to protect the public, I figured it was good enough to buy and keep in my personal guns....pretty hard to argue that. My sister is a lawyer, she would advise (for a small fee) against owning a gun if you really wanted to avoid gun related legal issues. Sorry for the thread drift. The point is do carry and do defend yourself if needed. And by all means tune the j-frame up if it makes wifey happy and more likely to carry and/or practice. If you don't mind shipping the gun, Sam has tuned up a couple k-frames for me, much to my satisfaction. Wildcat Traders

I am a little surprised that the consensus here is not to carry hand loaded ammo. Seems like what kind of ammo you used would be a small matter in a self defense shooting. At least, rather low on the list of things that would get you in deep doo-doo. I know there are many cases that involve over penetration with your average 9mm ball ammo. But I don't know of any where someone got framed as a whacko for reloading their own ammo. Could certainly happen though and is easily prevented, if that sorta thing keeps you awake at night.... We have a 442 in the house and the trigger is quite heavy, but it smooths up nicely with use and a little lube. But I wouldn't hesitate to tune one up for carry.

Thanks Chuck, I will check out jetloaders too.

Did I mention they time me with a calender?!

Thanks steelshooter! I use speed strips for carry also. Better for slipping into a pocket, but slower for reloads. I will research the comp 2's and 3's you mentioned. I have seen the spring loaded deals, they really shoot the cartridges out. That must be what the faster wheelie shooters 'round here use. The local match (San Juan Wildlife Federation) is pretty laid back about the official IDPA rules if you are just starting out (like we are) so a little third world engineering for a holder won't be a problem.

Hello, First a quick story. I introduced a couple of my friends, both new to handguns, to the local IDPA matches. Started them off with the ubiquitous and simple to operate 9mm Glock. Then they both wanted to try a revolver and I offered up my Model 65-5. After a couple matches they were both "sold" and went and picked up a couple corrections trade ins for themselves! I only have cheap HKS speedloaders that don't fit exactly perfectly and they slow down reloads in this game. (I usually use my 610 or an auto) So, I would like to hear specifically what model speedloaders are good, better, and best for IDPA. Something that would double for CCW would get bonus points.

I can't imagine 15 degrees F would make any difference with a light charge of Clays? I could be wrong... I have shot clays at sub zero temps in Alaska. I do know what if you are pushing the envelope with rifle loads, what might be a perfectly safe load during a Thanksgiving weekend elk hunt at 9k feet in Colorado is NOT a safe load on a hot New Mexico summer day. But then we are talking 80 to 100 degrees F difference.

I think the cracked brass was a fluke. The 10mm loads were moderate also, I forget the exact velocities. chmerr, I use HS6 because it is such a versatile powder and fills up the cases nicely so its easy to see a double charge. I mostly use it in auto cartridges, 9mm, 40, 10. I also use it for cowboy loads.

Hi folks, thanks for all the help. I was able to go out and shoot over the chrony a coupla few weeks ago and thought I would check back. The same 155 and 165gr loads shot about 1050fps out of the 4" 610 and just a little faster out of my Glock 22. Slightly warmer than I was looking for, but well within the velocities listed in my data for a moderate charge of HS6. Not an issue of loading too hot, the shape of the area around the firing pin is to blame.

I have a gold bead on my 610 because I had a hard time picking up the black ramp under less than ideal light conditions. Its dialed in to hit just at the top of the front bead. My thinking/experience is (not being a serious competitive shooter mind you) that fast or close shooting I don't really stop and focus on the sights. Longer or slower shots I still line it up the same as a front black ramp. Overall the gold dot is much easier for me to pick up under less than perfect lighting.

Thanks guys, my chrono is brand new, haven't even used it! So I didn't think of using it to help diagnose, but that should be quite telling. And shooting the same load in bottom feeder and revolver should help also. It was only 100 pieces of brass so I am thinking the split case is a fluke. I'll shoot the rest of them and keep an eye out for problems before I call Starline. I have been very happy with their brass in general. I need a macro enable camera and I will post a picture or two.

Hi folks, I have a 4" 610 that I have shot very little. At the range today I put about 50 rounds through it, mostly 40 and a few 10mm. Both with near starting loads of HS-6 from Lyman's 48th, 165 jacketed bullets (don't have the exact amount handy). Had one new Starline 10mm case split and some seriously flat primers. Recoil on all shots fired was rather mild, of course the 10mms pack a little more punch. I have been reloading for years and never experienced anything like this. I have reloaded a bajillion .40 for my bottom feeder. Do 610's have a way of slamming the primers that other guns do not? I know its not always a repeatable sign of high pressure. I had a .357 that would flatten cowboy loads. The split case could be an anomoly, but it has me spooked. To be on the safe side next round I will start below minimum.

I use double hearing protection. You can purchase Caldwell electronic muffs (on sale) for 25 dollars and a bulk package of foamies for less. That would keep your ears safe for a long time. My two favorite foamies are Howard Leight multi-fit and EAR Classic (plus size for me). Both are quite effective. Then add the electronic muffs on top and crank up the volume to hear timers, range comands and other sounds safely. Some safety "experts" argue that proper fit is more important than total NRR. Fit is very important to me, I have tried many of the fancy muffs out there and finally settled on top of the line pro-ears. However the Caldwell muffs are remarkable, for the price, and fit me well.

I tried the Hogue on my Redhawk, which I also use for hunting. The finger grooves don't agree with me. I would be happy to send them to try out.