ihatepickles

So as I sit here learning Miami Valley geography and hoping the tornadoes miss me, I realize that I don't know what time class starts tomorrow... Anyone? P.S. Kai Sushi Cafe was pretty good and the Food Cub has a very odd layout for a grocery store.

Yep, traffic sucked. The locals who fight that everyday have my sympathy. I'm gonna grab sushi and hit the grocery.

The mark is from hitting the ejection port opening on the way out. The brass deflector dings up the case mouth usually, not the case web. You can someone verify the mark is from the ejection port. Look for the mark left by the extractor, the extractor mark and the ding on the case web should be lined up if I'm right. You can lessen this damage by clipping a half-coil off the ejector plunger spring at a time and testing. Clipping this spring will make ejection a bit less forceful. Getting the spring out is a bit of a pain unless you have an AR bolt disassembly tool. You have to compress the ejector plunger, drift out the retaining pin, and then slowly let off the spring pressure. If you're casual while doing this, you'll likely launch the assembly across the room. If in doubt, disassemble the bolt while it's inside a plastic bag to hopefully retain the part should your tool slip off the bolt. I think the brass is OK as is to reload and shoot. I'd prefer if the ding wasn't on the brass though and I'd tune the ejector spring if it were my rifle.

I think it's awesome when LEOs get into competitive shooting. Glad you found the best forum on the web. Steve

Both, based on the post title.

I hear you Lee and I do realize Glock isn't the only one out there spitting out guppy belly brass. The term Glock'ed isn't going away anytime soon though amongst reloaders.

I'm about 2 weeks away from taking delivery of a CasePro. I think a roll sizer with a case feeder is a big deal for maximizing my shooting time. If there were other options for the home reloader, I'd welcome the added free market competition. I get my brass from a local guy who buys from the police ranges. It's 99% Glocked brass and my finished ammo fails case gauge 5% of the time. Once I'm up and running with the roll sizer, my club match and practice ammo will be a lot less hassle. I'll still case gauge my major match ammo.

Sorry - I'm going to call BS on that. I loaded up once fired brass that had been roll sized to major PF and fired it through a fully supported barrel. Then, roll sized it again and reloaded it again. 10 times. Zero failures. ZERO You could hardly make out the headstamp. Ouch, that's kind of harsh. I think your statement spelled out an important point. If you were firing out of a fully supported chamber, you'd experience a different result than a shooter with a stock Glock barrel without full chamber support. Cut Dillon a break, I think they make a good point (as do you). If you're roll sizing (heck, even if you're just using a sizing die) repeatedly Glock'ed brass, that brass is going to get work hardened a lot more quickly than brass fired out of the full supported chamber.

Skip the Bladetech DOH. I know a lot of people like it, but I think it's subpar compared to a belt holster. I like the CompTac belt holsters. The DOH setup puts the pistol grip at the same height as your belt. When you draw, your thumb has to fit between the pistol grip and belt to get a firing grip. When you run a belt holster, the pistol grip is above the belt line and this gives you better access to the grip. The DOH is in a weird position for sitting starts. I've had the DOH get tangled in lawn chairs. The belt holster keeps the same position for starts with a bent waist, like sitting. The DOH isn't legal for IDPA. Yes, you can disassemble the DOH and reassemble it as a belt holster. Then you're learning to draw from 2 different positions as you switch between sports. Also, the frustration level of dealing with the perpetually spinning backing nuts on the DOH is a pain in the butt when they have to be disassembled. Should you ever disassemble the CompTac screws, you'll see how much nicer their non-spinning hardware is (and they use resettable loc-tite on their screws to make it less likely for the screws to accidentally back out). CompTac shipping time is usually 3-4 days. Bladetech (assuming you can't find one in stock from a dealer) is a month. I do use Bladetech mag pouches. I have 3 singles and a double pouch. When I shoot IDPA, I simply move the holster and the double pouch to a IDPA legal belt, it takes about a minute. I hope that helps, I ran DOHs for 5 years. The switch to a belt holster was a huge improvement.

I wasn't impressed with the trigger on my CZ Custom SP01 Shadow. It was a touch gritty and the DA was heavy. It was nice having the LPA adjustable sight cut already done. The CZC gun didn't come with an extended firing pin or reduced power firing pin spring. Also, I was brushed off when I called to get a tracking number after the pistol shipped. Stuart Wong (eerw here on the forums) is who I'd choose if I were starting over. My build sheet would look like this: Shadow SP01 Barrel with throat reamed for longer loaded ammo Polished feed ramp Extended firing pin Reduced power firing pin spring 11 lbs recoil spring (depends a bit on ammo, could be 10 lbs or 12 lbs) Thin CZ safeties Adjustable plain rear sights Serrated plain front sight DA at a super silky smooth <5lbs and a crisp SA Extended magazine release internally relieved (prevent mags from occasionally snagging on exit) Slide release profiled for long or heavy bullets (I want an extra one of these for spare parts kit) Ten 17 round Mecgar AFC magazines VZ Tac Diamond grips Grip tape on front and backstrap

She's a Maniac

Still healing the carpal tunnel RSI stuff?

Wow, minimum round count of 202! I gotta get my revolver sorted out by April and hit these matches.

Mecgar has 15 round CZ75 mags. http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-11100/Mag-Cz-75b-9mm-15rd-Mecgar.aspx CZ sells rubber basepads for CZ mags or you can also use rubber basepads for the Beretta 92. http://shop.cz-usa.com/P-273199000850/7585--Rubber-Mag-Base-Pad.aspx http://www.berettausa.com/products/for-beretta-92-96-black-rubber-magazine-pad-15-10rd-mds-brand/ms1770332/?F_All=Y

I'll be driving up Friday night. If any fellow University of Kentucky fans want to hang out and watch the payback whoopin' on IU, drop me a line.

Because some of us are nerds and realize that all sets begin with a reference of zero! Have you ever thought about birthdays? Each year we have one and we always get the label wrong. People will say "It's my 37th birthday", when really what they mean is "It's the 37th anniversary of my birthday". The most important birthday is the very first on you had, but everyone always skips that one. So really, on the day you celebrate the 37th anniversary of your birthday, you are in fact celebrating your 38th birthday (the very first one plus an anniversary each time we make a successful revolution of the Sun). So, wait... what was the question again? The others made it clear, the numbers on the mags are so we can tell the difference between them in case one of them should screw up.

I haven't verified these numbers, but these are notes I took a few months ago when I was considering doing the same. I decided I'd just get a 75 Shadow instead, as I didn't want to mess around this much. I kept the notes though, hope it helps. Remove material from the backside of the grips. You can get 3/4 oz out of the thin AL grips if you have a friend with a mill. The fixed rear site can be drilled (left to right) as well, but that's only worth 1/10 oz. The magazine guide can be narrowed, I think that's another 1/10 oz. The plastic guiderod is 1/2 oz lighter than the steel OEM one. The 10 round mags are 1/2 oz lighter than the CZ 16 round mags.

I zero at 25 yards. I also test at 7,15, and 50 yards though. You need good knowledge of where your rounds impact. When you show up to a match with some 50 yard standards, you'll be a lot less anxious if you're not guessing at holdover.

I don't think it's just the CZs that have this problem... Here's my thinking, the rulebook says 2" from the inside of the belt but it doesn't explicitly state the measurement should be taken at the top or the bottom of the belt. I suspect most if not all DOH are compliant if measured from the bottom edge (where the pistol is closer to the body). It's splitting hairs of course, but for what it's worth I think the holster is fine for Prod and SS despite the ambiguity of where the measurement should be taken. For me, I switched to on the belt holsters from CompTac. I'm with Corey and think the higher grip is better. No more DOH for me, ever.

Finally quit procrastinating and sent my app in. No idea why I didn't send it in sooner, I guess I kept thinking there would be plenty of time. Not so, looks like it's filling up really fast. Saturday is nearly topped out!

I mixed in some Slide Glide Lite and now it cycles much more smoothly!

Perhaps they don't want to reshoot a classifier that they've recently shot with a particular gun? Who know what goes through people minds, it's easier to predict the weather...

A house divided... oh boy...

Gun problems are frustrating. Perhaps an aftermarket extractor is in your future? http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=136287 I hate to throw money at the problem, but this seems to be a common complaint of M&P owners and seems to be more common with reloaded ammo with their slightly abused case rims. It's happened to one friend in particular with new ammo, but it went away without any work being done (I assume a chip of brass was stuck in the extractor and it eventually cleared itself). Still, it's happened enough that even I'm aware of the issue and I'm not even an M&P owner.

Give the Bayou Moly 135 a shot. Slightly different bullet, might work out better.