Dan4147

Fyi the Gold Team V12 is not “no good”. It performs well but not excellent; get your loads right. Now if you’re wanting a build project, you picked a good (challenging) one. Have fun!

Woe! That’s beyond what I have seen for a comp 1911/2011. Does it actually use use it all? I only did .325 and buffer down to about .210. It feels and functions great. The brass buffer is showing obvious slide contact after about 200 rounds so I may take it out and see if the full .325 is better in some way. Guess I’ll have to respring too. Good shooting to you.

I was crushed until I saw my simple mistake. Adrian is there a replacement guide rod that is just straight like a 1911...... no relieved section?

As promised.

It looks original, even the small radius where the vertical meets the horizontal is there. Patriot Defense did it on a mill. I will make a pic later anyway.

All good suggestions above. I will make a couple more. Use a loaded bullet when shaking for extractor tension. Look at the extractor movement to make sure it has a little “overtravel”. There is a “stop foot” on the inside of the extractor to limit travel inward to grip the shell and it MAY need to have a few thousandths removed to grip all brass. Don’t do that if you have good travel. 9mm has a lot of variations. Also, polish the underside of the slide where the hammer rides, and very slightly ease the front edge of that. That area can drag the next round in the magazine too far forward and cause a road block for the fired shell extraction. Keep searching. You will get it.

https://forums.brianenos.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=134324 I tried all the springs and ejector lengths. Still have some hits. So I just blame it on range brass variations. I switched to a Eaa rail mount (which is too high and I don’t like) and just used one side to mount. I think I may try a blank Slipstream mount and drii to fit. As you can see in my pic I couldn’t get the Ipsc Alex clearing.

I can take a pic later, but I can tell you now the slide looks the same as stock. Shorten (remove) guide rod hood slide material where it meets the frame on recoil. That’s it. Amount removed equal to increased stroke.

The first reply is totally correct. I will also add this, because the biggest issue I had was with mounts and ejection. Oh, and I do not use the full size cmore. I only use rts2 and Vortex Razor. Shoot your pistol without a mount, with your preferred load. Note the direction of ejection. If it is up/forward around 1 or 1:30 you will probably have issues with a double side mount. It is very time consuming and frustrating to work through that because of all the variables that are affected by EVERYTHING. Hopefully you won’t be subjected to this. Oh, and make sure you relieve/clearance the mount you get so that there is no chance the slide can rub when fired. Ask me how I know.

So, guys who are proficient at building will know I made a thoughtless mistake. Patriot Defense did a great job of slide work stroking .325. Before shooting, when relieving coil bind I clipped a few coils off the recoil spring. Guys, when you do this turn the clipped end of the spring inward on the guide rod, with the closed end into the plug. I didn't, and the gun locked up on the 3rd shot. I was stunned until I got the GT apart and found the open end of the spring had wedged between the plug and the relieved (small diameter area) of the guide rod. Turned the spring around and all is well. For the record, I added 1 brass buffer. That actually reduced the stoke by about .120. Adding a buffer also adds the thickness of the guide rod shoulder to the stroke reduction. I have not tried using the full stroke of .325 yet. Results after a few hundred rounds of different major loads; dot tracking is a little better in that previously the dot movement with some loads was "wandering around", not just up and down. That is noticeably better but not gone completely. And, shell ejection is way more consistent and no brass has hit the bottom/back of the sight. I can't say for sure that the shot impulse cycling in the gun overall is much different if any. Round feeding has been 100% and I think will stay that way. I was told by someone who should know that stroking improves bullet movement up in the mag all the way to the chamber. Disclaimer; I can't say that better results are from stroking or just the spring changes. But, I wouldn't have made the changes but for the stroke.

I like chrome in every way. Have 2, including a Tanfo. Plenty of good info in the above replies, BUT I will throw 1 experience in just fyi. I have 2 OLD Para open guns. The original finish on both was old and looking terrible. 1 like new and 1 showing significant wear. On a whim, I decided to spend a little to spiff them up, and maybe sell. Cummings Custom Refinishing has a process called CP2. Plating, only 1 color (similar to stainless but with a hint of grey). I was totally surprised by the quality work and attention to detail on assembly done. They were done so well and perform flawless so I kept them.

Just for info, what were the "issues" in UT? Also, do you plunk test every round? I agree there should have been no useable difference in batch.

My head is poppeling.

All of this is correct, except.....making major. When I got a Tanfo V12 9mm I was a bit worried about it because of what I had read in various forums. I turned out to be pretty easy if you keep the basics in mind. After a LOT of testing here is what I found on gold team.....others may differ. be careful! -!! short mags with a spacer in rear!! 1.140 max oal. (I actually set my seating die to 1.135) If I go any longer I start getting a random feed issue. Rmr has a 124 jhp multi purpose round with profile that is about .020 shorter that a montana gold or rmr jhp. Loading 1.140 with the rmr is about the same case volume as loading others to 1.160. -watch your primers. Most people accept flattened but don't want flowed or melted, obviously. I use cci500 at minimum, Win small pistol didn't make the cut at all. -Autocomp and HS6 will make major easily without too much volume. The AC is cleaner and the HS6 is a bit softer and I think more gas for the comp and popples. Both will load on my dillon without spillage. Though there are better gasy powders like Major Pistol they would splash out of the case while loading so not for me. -I got the least dot movement when my pf is between 172 and 175. That's where I like it. Yes, the concussion and blast is pretty radical, but luckily I don't have any arthritis lol. -Yes, 38sc is better in every respect, except $$. No experience, but I bet this is especially true with the GT v12, but I don't know how the short cycle function tanfo handles the longer oal. May get one some day when I get rich.....hmmmm Extreme?

Since no one has opinioned, I will contribute something, fwiw. I have a full size 45 (with 22 conversion) that I have shot a couple hundred rounds through. 100% out of the box as good as any others I have including 1911. No experience with a 10mm but I wouldn't pick such a long load as I have read there can be more feed/eject issues. I do have a 40 P for home defense with a streamlight. Never thought about ccw with the tanfo so no help there, but if it is not too big/heavy for you, ok. I have no experience with the striker fires, etc that everyone swears by. If you decide to use it as your life defender, don't forget to choose your ammo and plunk and test fire some. Reliability starts there.

The ribs end where the spring and follower would normally set full mag. Adding a aftermarket base and follower allows everything passing below the ribs. Bullets did not transition up past the rib bump well. Just bevel that bump a little and polish. Your feed lip tune is new to me. I get a shell left in not ejected occasionally. I may try a mag 340 to see if lower bullet presentation makes a difference for me.

Same here. But I only used 1 side to mount.

Thanks for the follow up. I went thru the same ejection hell as you with the ia mount and rts2. What did you end up with? I just got the eaa picatinny mount and use 1 side.

Yep. Did what you did along with the Patriot Defense bolo and Titan hammer. Also, when I added extended mag bases, went nose dive crazy. And grams guts may have had something to do with the issue. Took a dremel grinder tip and "ramped" the front control ribs inside the tubes at the bottom and solved that. The "bump" was just too abrupt I guess. Did one tube on both front and rear control ribs and it worked just as good. Fwiw......

Ok. Reaming is std thing. Are you using 9 mags with the spacer in the back? If so, 1.140 oal is the longest I can use and run 100%. Longer gives mag feeding issues, particularly with extended base pads. In my case anyway.

Curious to hear if you have brass hitting the back of your red dot.

Colby, I got a Gold Team just because it fit my hand better than any other open gun out there. Seems to me the cz would grip very much the same. 2nd reason was the chrome. I’m a sucker for shiny things, and I knew it would wear well. 3rd I already had a witness so making the trigger outstanding was already in my bag. The GT is a short stroke gun (unlike the 2011/1911) which seems to make cycling in general including ejection (9mm) wild. I think somewhere I saw that the cz had a little more stroke from the factory. Magazines and aftermarket base pads are readily available but take some effort to make run 100%. NOTE the mecgar eaa mags limit bullet oal to about 1.140 max and I tried all profiles. Making major was no problem but it’s not the flattest shooter which is in line with my skill anyway. Scope mounts are obtainable but I had to use a single side due to ejection clearance. And I went through a couple of ejector/sear cages and extractors getting that solved. So, I don’t know if the czechmate is ready out of the box but the GT takes dialing in for sure. I enjoy tinkering and tweeking, and spent about 500 on mags springs trigger parts etc. Good luck. Get what you like.

Well your post gave me some inspiration and it paid off. I beveled or eased the end of the control bumps on the inside of the mag so the transition of the bullet from the “flat” area to the ribs is gradual. For testing i only did the front rib on each side of the tube. Then I seriously polished the ground area. Tested with henning 141 and 121 base pads and grams guts was successful. Even better, the TF +10 base even shoots 100% (100 rounds) without nose dives. For the heck of it I did the same grind polish steps on all 4 ribs on a 2nd tube. It tested out and performed the same 100%. I think the henning 121/ipsc bases would probably work with a unmodified tube, but I won’t chance it after blowing matches recently. I am ready! oh, I used a dremel withe a small tapered abrasive tip. Then a small hard fiber tip and polish compound.

Wish we could get that long tube over here. I would take 9 or 38.

No knowledge the czechmate, but mbx has NO mags for tanfo in stock or in process. I do know that!