shootmove

#Facts

This emphasizes the importance of shooting at the speed of sight At the moment of shooting a match, our job is to call our shots, that's it. The time to get fast was in dry fire. You aren't going to reliably get faster in a match. The only thing you can reliably do in a match is shoot at your current level of skill. So if we shoot what we can see, then we don't have to worry about what other shooters did. A related mistake is shoot according to the cadence that you hear. That doesn't work either. Vision travels faster than hearing. So, although it's tempting and our mind loves rhythm, we shoot better if we shoot to what we see rather than what we hear.

To shoot accurately by feel, you need A LOT of repetitions. But if you have A LOT of correct repetitions, you will always see the dot So, unless you are Taran Butler literally shooting from the hip, see every shot. At least that is what Steve Anderson recommends. He goes so far as to say that double taps are not even desirable.

It sounds like you might not be calling the shots at all. Have you experienced seeing the dot throughout the *entire recoil cycle*? That was a big step for me. I believe many people flinch as the shot breaks, and that makes seeing the sights through the recoil the cycle difficult to impossible. The moment of lift is the most important moment, because the position of the dot at the moment of lift is where the shot went. As for people saying that calling the shot will slow you down, that is pretty much the opposite of what Steve Anderson teaches. On todays podcast he was mentioning that "Vision is faster than effort", and he habitually says that "calling the shot is free speed"--because you can just keep moving, there's no secondary confirmation.

For an open class gun, there is no comparison between a Czechmate and an Atlas. The Atlas has superior ergonomics (grip, safety, etc; the PT grips are insanely great). For contrast, the controls on the CM are bunched up on the left, and the slide racker rides far too low; people often run the CM charging handle on the right (a.k.a. wrong) side for this reason. The Atlas also shoots flatter. Both guns are extremely fast, and the CM trigger is probably the best non-1911 trigger I've ever shot, but here again the Atlas outshines: less travel to the wall. The CM magwell also leaves *a lot* to be desired (poorly blended with the frame); and even a CZ Custom magwell doesn't being to approach the quality, fit, and function of the Atlas magwell. Atlas customer service is superb. Oh, and the red dot mount on the CM is not nearly as reliable--I find the Atlas holds zero longer and better. (It's ~2 screws on the CM versus ~5 on the Chaos). One possible advantage of of the CM: mags are cheaper and probably require less tuning. Granted there is a 2X price difference between the guns. Depends on how serious you are about shooting open class

Oil in most places, grease in a very few (e.g. AR-15 hammer hook and sear). George Fennell has a video where he explains that oil is preferable to grease in most cases.

Just got this great tip from Steve Anderson's recent podcast (great source of info on drills and mindset.) Apparently, Steve learned this from Ben Stoeger. Low round-count drill of your choice Place a clean target behind a shot target. Shoot the drill. Envision what the target should look like. Check the real target. If all hits are Cs or better, look at the timer. Repeat Aim for 85% As (that's roughly the competition-winning percentage). Excited to try this. Anyone have experience or enhancements to this method?

This remains one of Google's top threads on the Czechmate It is helpful to document facts for posterity, to save other shooters time.

I tried with a copper brush with no luck - the brush is admittedly old and flattened. These threads are pretty fine (9/16 x 32), so maybe that's the issue.

A tip for those of you working to clean barrel threads so that you can attach a compensator: soak the barrel in a glass bottle filled with M-Pro 7. I'm attaching a comp to a KKM barrel. I used Rocksett to secure the comp, but the comp broke loose during shooting. I believe it broke loose because I failed to clean the barrel threads sufficiently--they were still black with carbon fouling. After trying several methods that did not get the threads sparkling clean, I've had the best success with *soaking the tip of the barrel in M-Pro 7 cleaner* (glass spice bottles are a good size.) No other form of saturation or solvent seemed to work (Goo Gone failed, Isopropyl failed, rubber banding a patch soaked in WeaponShield failed--in fairness, these solvents may have worked in a long-term "spice bottle" soak). Let's see how these cleaner threads lock up. Any other tips? I toyed with detailing the threads with a needle, but it didn't seem to work that well.

Losing Ron hurts. I was fortunate enough to train with him at TPC. I always hoped to go back. Never even knew he was sick. He was an amazing diagnostician and explainer of how to shoot well. He will be missed. I think about Ron, Louis Awerbuck--and so many other giants that we have lost. They contributed to the foundational knowledge of our sport. Sad day.

I've been getting a lot from Scott Jedlinski's training tips. He's got some ambitious black belt standards (below), and I think these will be helpful for those of us who wish to go faster and more accurately. All times are from concealment. 3&2 Drill. 3 yards. 3 shots to the COM Alpha then transition to 2 rounds on a 3x5 card in the head box. Par is 2.0 seconds. 1 Shot Drill @ 7 yards. 1 shot to COM Alpha. Par is 1.0 second. Bill Drill. 7 yards. 6 shots to COM Alpha. Par is 2.0 seconds. 1 Shot Drill @ 25 yards. 1 shot to COM Alpha. Par is 1.5 seconds. The full standards (with lower belts) are here. In general, I've found many of his videos to be helpful (especially on the topics of AIWB and red dots).

In my experience, the Czechmate will shoot (with the comp and factory spring) factory ammo. Granted, I shoot slightly hot factory ammo. The same gun (and the same ammo) will also run with a 10lb spring. I honestly believe it's a matter of finding the ammo / spring combo that gives you optimal recoil characteristics.

My personal setup: 2 x 170mm, 3 x 140 mm. Start (usually) with 170 mm in the gun. Reload from any of the three 140 mm in first three mag pouches (reloads with short sticks are easier), and then a 170mm reload in the last pouch just in case. 170mm reloads are different enough to require training imho.

I'm running a Chaos with the Alpha X wtih extended muzzle support and thigh pad (plan to add extended ball joint). With these two additions, the Alpha X rivals the Safariland 014 (which I use for another gun). The extended muzzle support adds more security to the hold, reducing worries that the gun will drop. I concur that the 014 feels sturdier, but have not seen any issues with draw angle on the Alpha X. The Alpha X also affords more adjustments (with the ball joint) and has one-screw removal for traveling, without removing the main belt bracket.