Josh Biondi

Pictures please....

With a recent thread talkinga about long ejectors it got me thinking about how much long ejectors are needed, especially extended ejectors. This gun hasn't jammed since 2006 until this yr. At the Mich sectional it jammed with my big stick. Since I didn't shoot before the Ohio Sectional I used that same mag on the first stage and it jammed. It ended up being the mag feed lips and not the actual gun. So without those two jams that was due to mag issues this thing has ran like a top. I thought about getting a new ejector but then figured I needed to leave well enough alone. "edited" Wanted to add that I'm not saying that long ejectors doesn't help or are not needed. This gun is a 40 cal Open gun and alot of guys like long ejectors in limited guns. Another thread was talking about detonations on ULSC. Just wanted to show that your ejector doesn't have to be extended to have reliable ejection. Flyin I think that if your gun havent a jam since the 2006, and you got only 2 jams recently you'll be satisfied of your gun. I agree to you that the cause maybe the mag, expecially if you dont get jam with the other mags. However, i dont if it will help, but you have the same ejector that i have on my Edge .40 S&W....

IMHO i continue to prefere the old style extractor....

maybe he's joking us

+1 for shooterbenedetto...

on a open gun this ejector seems me too short...plus the ejection angle seems me too low... but finally... how do it eject??

SVI follower red, Wolff spring cut to 10 coil, similar SVI basepad. With this set up you'll get 18 relodable rounds

Too busy or sleepers...as i see this things dont happens only in Italy

In case I try to file anything off the thumb safety and screw something up?? To have some spare parts is aways a good idea when someone tooks the decision to put own hands on own gun for the first time....to avoid to be left "naked" if you screw something up However, if you file too much from a safety and you are able with "hand job" before to substitute the safety and lose your $$$ you can try to weld the part and re file it to gave it the original shaped with a dremel IMHO

well... i bought my media whit my thumber about 7 years ago.... well i wash it with a basic acid for brick curtain and water... the media becomes as new. Just add a little quantity of dillon polish and they are ready to works fine again.. Total cost 10,00 € about $8,00

STI Edge VVN320 5.1grs with 180 grs fmj bullets OAL 1.180 PF 174 recoil spring Ismi 12,5lbs or Wolff 13lbs and mainspring 15 lbs Ismi. I hope it will help.

wow....you're lucky man because you wasnt hurt....

Every new product needs to be "run in" before to obtain the best performance. I know that at STI the guys are working on this trouble and they will take care of every shooters trouble... Apart this IMHO i continue to prefere the plastic grip... maybe im conservative ???

Certainly STI will cover it! Giva a call to Chris and send him a couple of pictures, he wil take care of you....

The best wishes to Venry! The cancer is the worst lowest sickness, hard to be win.... this notice make sad everyone!

Yep. On all of mine I've had to run the trigger over sandpaper (wet) on a flat piece of wood to get them to fit properly. The nice thing is you can get them so they don't bind at all, but have no real play. R, Every trigger needs to be fitted STI or SVI that you prefere. The way G-ManBart suggest you is a safe way ..... i usually done this job with my dremel

both (1&2)... but they are a little bit imperceptible lightening the mainspring your perceived feeling will be higher

I adopted the same solution and it works fine for me, but recently i bought a GIZMO dies from John a very smart guy and with this system i work faster.

You can try to rebuild the missing fiber with some product for it that you can find on Brownells. Sometime i done it with a black acraglass glue na di got good result, but if you dont have time and a good capacity in hand job may be its better to buy a new one to avoid to waste time and $$$.

The only reason, over to lighting the hammer wheigt, that i can imagine is that they cut the mainspring to adapt it to the mainspring housing i dont find it too abnormal...

I agree with Roy the key is in the follower, but you need alsoto adapt the spring to support better the follower so the butter present itself with the noise up to the chamber. You can try to bend to the top the third/fourth turn of the spring. this procedure is better explaned on this great forum in the post spring.

Hey Mike Thanks for the offer. I may take you up on it. As far as the nice guy thing, I wish somebody would tell my wife that. She thinks I'm and a%^h($# need more intimity?

lol osclutatory= matching perfectly

The only things that you should have care are: that the hammer hooks are perfectly at 90°, and that the primary angle on the sear are done in the way that you get 2 surface (sear primary surface and hammer hooks surface) that are totally osculatory. So you should adapt your click to get this result. More easier to do than explane

Untrue. The Executive is carbon steel that has been hard chromed. R, If you give a call to Chris, you will know that the executive is in stainless steel and the edge is in carbon steel... being this i agree with its better to buy an edge and work on it to have one like the executive but you'll save a lot of bucks IMHO