flyer

Wondering how you made out with those gel pads... I am ashamed to say that I haven't even tried after the initial attempts. Do you know the secret way to get the standard ones off? I've done it two ways: 1. Put two fingers inside the pad (between the pad and foam area) and pull it out. It takes some force. 2. On mine there is a small tab on the outside of the pad. I push on that creating separation between the pad and ear cup, I then insert the back end of a table knife and pop them off. I've also done it by inserting my thumbnail between the pad and ear cup. Just be sure to use something that will spread the prying force out so as not to mar the ear cups. These things are on tight and take some force to get them off. I've done this several times on both of the Sordins I have (I've had to clean the foam pads a couple of times).

Best surface to hit the puller on is a concrete floor (I've also used an anvil). The problem I found with wood (e.g. stump) is that the wood absorbs too much of the energy and you don't get the required bounce. You end up having to hit it 5 or 6 times. When hitting on concrete floors most reloads I've pulled only take one or two sharp hits.

How much bell on the case mouth are you getting before seating the bullet. IIRC, the case mouth on my setup is around .483" after belling. This allows the bullets to sit fairly deep into the case before the seating die does it's thing and aligns the bullet and case pretty well.

According to: http://czcustom.com/KISS-MrBullet-Feeder.aspx, Mr. Bulletfeeder is formerly KISS. I ordered the Mr.BulletFeeder a few months ago directly from the maker and have been thrilled with it. Zero issues, it all worked perfectly the first time - just follow the directions that comes with it.

Good guy. Got mine a few weeks ago, and I love it. Sure is a time saver. Did a thousand rounds last night in about 1/2 the time.

I too use a Thumbler Tumbler. Had it for 20 years and it's still going strong. Only plastic on that thing is the power cord strain relief and the bowl. The bowl is very thick and takes a beating. Highly recommended. Ain't cheap, but it will last.

Been wondering the same thing about the RCBS. Sent several e-mails to mr. bullet feeder wanting to know price/availability. Zero response. Makes me wonder about customer support. Rick got hold of me via the PM system and as it turns out technology gets in the way again. Suffice it to say, Rick was very responsive in figuring it out. I now have confidence in Rick and am placing an order for a bullet feeder. Hurrah! No more placing bullets, just pulling the handle. Less time reloading (which I do enjoy) and more time throwing lead down range. Joe

Been wondering the same thing about the RCBS. Sent several e-mails to mr. bullet feeder wanting to know price/availability. Zero response. Makes me wonder about customer support.

Most ear seals for headsets are foam filled. The gel versions are filled with silicone. They are more pliable than foam and will conform to your head better thereby getting a better seal. It also spreads the pressure more evenly making them more comfortable. One of the urban myths I heard about gel seals started when I was a pilot. David Clark is the preeminent headset manufacturer in the aviation world. Myth is: when the FDA banned silicone implants, David Clark bought a tanker car of the stuff real cheap and started making headset seals from that purchase. Don't know if it's true, but makes a good story. (BTW, if you think noise canceling is expensive for shooting, try a set of David Clarks for flying - mine where around $700 - nothing in aviation is inexpensive). Don't know if they're available for the Dillons. Call and ask, if enough people do, they might make them.

Do you know who sells gell pads for the MSAs? Got mine here when I ordered my Sordins: http://www.csuk.us/

I'm pretty sure Graf & Sons would know since they do it on a daily basis. From their website (http://www.grafs.com/page/terms-full): Primed hulls, primed brass and ammo does not require a haz mat fee for ground shipping. I'll bet it does have to be marked ORM-D (no fee for that)

There's a $25 upgrade kit available. Works better than the light dimmer did and it adds on/off switch. http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p...tat_Upgrade_Kit

Got my upgrade kit today. Change out took 5 minutes. The rheostat is great. Really quiets the machine down on lower settings. I find a mid point works great. Definitely worth doing.

Another way to generate 3 phase is to use a 3 phase motor to generate 3 phase power from single phase. Woodworkers (I use to be one) have been doing it for years. Usually cheaper than buying rotary convertors since used 3 phase motors are fairly easy to get. Here's some web links discussing it: http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Buil..._converter.html http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html

Sent an e-mail to Dillon about a rumor of an upgrade and if the rumor is true. Their response on the rumor of an upgrade: It will be true in a month or so. Just need to get instructions written and printed.