Greengun

If you are asking about the frame mount holes, TSO and CM have the same location and 14.6mm hole spacing but Tanfoglio has 10mm spacing and is further forward towards dustcover.

I’ve found it useful to practice with airsoft pistols. It also saves a lot of ammo cost, range fees, and you can do it comfortably anytime at home. There are many air pistols that mimics the real ones in terms of weight and dimensions. The trigger is no comparison but you’d still need the same trigger discipline to shoot good. I also mount my regular red dot on the air pistol. It helps you to find the dot as you practice your draw. Although there is no recoil, but recoil happens all after you pull the trigger. So you get to practice at least for your first shot. Now I have switched to use a Laserlyte LT-Pre which is a bore laser inserted into your real pistol. You can dry fire to your hearts content, especially with a DA pistol, and see where the dot goes when you pull the trigger. The laser also works with iTarget system App runs on a smartphone. Not only you see where your shots are but also tracks the time on your draws.

Here is one in 9mm. https://www.gunprodeals.com/products/cz-75-806703912615?utm_source=Gun+Pro+Mailing+List&utm_campaign=4506fc6f79-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_04_25&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_2ad142b0c4-4506fc6f79-172866085 You can buy a 9mm barrel for Tactical Sport and it’s the same one used on TSO. However , some hand fitting may be required. This is the same kind of hand fitting on new barrels on other 75 models and there are videos showing you how to do it on YouTube. Somewhere I downloaded this picture showing the areas to file down just very little if needed.

Thanks for all the input. I finally got the rear sight removed, but not the screws. Turned out the screws are very soft. I used reverse drill bit and extraction bit but were only able to further strip the screws without getting them loose. So I think I’ll just push the rear sight and see what happens and then I did and I was able to push the sight all the way off without scratching the dovetail. To prevent this from happening again in the future, I’ve been searching for good hex bits/allen keys and did a lot of reading on online reviews. This is what I’ve settled with. The price is not bad comparing to other top quality tools. It has most of the common hex sizes for gunsmithing, including both SAE and metrics.

TSL, thanks for the feedback.

Sorry, I meant to say the port at the muzzle on the barrel through the slide. Not sure how to call it.

TSL, May I ask the hole measurements on the barrel and slide and how does it work for you?

^^^ this ^^^ Joking aside, I’ve started to label all my mags to their matching pistols.

Tom, I think soldering iron idea is brilliant and I do have one that is temperature controlled. Yoshi, MIP seems a great tool, as their price indicates. I am still looking for a set that won’t cost me an arm I think the screw maybe 1.5mm as I tried a 1/16” initially and it was a little too big. So I used the next smaller one and it was small enough just to grab a little but that was how I stripped the screws.

I am in the same boat. Started with Walther then progressed into all metal Sigs DA/SA, then sharp shooting CZs, Sphinx and Wilson Combat. Grew from 9mm, into .357sig, ,40s&w, ,45acp, 10mm and backdown to .22lr. At the same time, the sight varies from fixed, to fiber, to red dot dovetail mounted and then slide milled. It’s a progression, passion, fun, and a lot of money changing from need to want. So I think I want to consolidate as well like you - one for target shooting fun, two for carry (one in the woods and one everywhere else), and 3 for HD (strategically placed at different places). On top of those, a .22lr for practice (and I’ve found it helps greatly). I am gradually thinking towards polymer for carry due to light weight (but must be DA/SA with decocker), full sized metal for HD, all steel 10mm for woods, and another full metal for target shooting fun.

Ohhhh, I think I didn’t know what that impact driver was for. Now I know. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That impact driver doesn’t look like the right type for the job but inserting a nail then heat the nail sounds like a great idea. Thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Till it smoke? Maybe you are right. I checked that it needs to reach 550F to loosen red Loctite. I have no way to be sure, but I used a cigarette torch (one that blow a strong blue flame) for 50 seconds thinking it may be enough. It didn’t smoke but I’d hate to damage the cerakote finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks. I think my root problem was not having quality torx and allen keys to begin with. At my age I am starting to regret all the cheap tools that I have accumulated. Now I am shopping for good ones. Once I have good torx bits I’ll give a try. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great, I actually have it on order from Amazon but I wasn’t very sure it’d do the job. Do I just press down and drill in reverse? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Was trying to remove the screws on the rear sight. Used a small cigarette torch to heat it up to loosen Loctite but still no budge. Ended up stripped both screws. Looked up all screw extractors on Amazon but the smallest one only goes down to 5/64” or 2mm. I used a 1/16” Allen key but it was a bit too big at the beginning but now it won’t bite in. Any suggestions? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I noticed through my pictures that the comp is not true to the bore, the front is higher than the rear. It’s clear to see that by looking at how the rail runs with the barrel. Glad that I haven’t shot it yet as the bullet might hit the baffle. Needless to say I’ll ask for a replacement. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

A top view. I think this comp really fits well. Though it’s designed for a tanfo it fits TS/TSO lower so well including the rails (I do had to hand fit it just a tiny bit). It slides inside the dust cover and the lower part booth allows recoil rod to travel. My TSO comes as a .40, this new top gives me a 9mm set up that I can swap back and force anytime just use different mags.

I followed the footsteps of a project which Kneelingatlas did few years ago of adding a small comp to a TS. What’s different is that I am adding to a TSO. No modification has been done to the frame or slide. The SP01 slide fits naturally to the frame with a TS/TSO barrel threaded for the comp and that’s basically it. This project is for fun as a range gun. Haven’t shot it yet but I think it’d be great. I want to thank Kneelingatalas for his guidances. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does it mean that stainless steel is not as strong as regular non-stainless steel? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I am sorry. I believe it's M4x0.7(pitch)x8mm (length)

My search telling me TSO use M4x8 flat head screw for thumb rest and M3.5x8 for grips. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi, I happen to found this post of yours and I am very interested if I may get some guidance from you in adding a comp to a TS. I actually have a TSO in .40S&W. I want to convert it to 9mm with a comp like in your picture. I understand I need to buy a SP01 slide and a TS barrel plus additional work. Could you give me more details on what I’ll need to do? Will I still be able to use the original slide and barrel to shoot .40? Thanks! Steve Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yah, I have a Deltapoint and that’s what I’ll do. But I also want to try a tube red dot with a two sided frame mount. Something like this Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ve been thinking of getting that weaver mount pictured with no holes version and then drill/tap it for TSO. Does anyone has a measurement of that mount? I wonder what is the Witness slide width and height above the mounting area. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk