anonymouscuban

I'm barely putting any bell in it. Just enough to seat the bullet manually so it doesn't fall out if I shake it. They seem to look OK but I don't have a puller to see what its doing under the case. Well, I loaded my first 20 live rounds. It only took that many to make me realize I may need a better scale. I got the Hornady G2 1500 scale. Tiny thing. Only measures to a tenth of a grain. Not sure if it the scale or my powder drop but measured about 40 drops and they fluctuated between 3.6 and 3.7 with no adjustments to the powder measure. I figure that's the accuracy tolerance of this scale. It's good enough for these plinking rounds. Could it be the powder drop? I would think there should not be that much variance in it. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

You know, I kind of wanted to do just that so I think I'm gonna load up about 20 rounds at 3.6 and go test them at the range without the chrono on Sunday. I'm gonna hit the range anyway so may as well. 3.6 seems to be the go to load for coated 124/5 gr bullets based on the many posts I've read on the subject. 3.2 for the 147gr. Which brings up something that seems counter intuitive to me. I would think that the heavier bullet needs a bigger powder load to fire it but all the load data I see has this relationship inverse. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I'm gonna load the 125g Blue Bullet projectile first. Tightgroup and WSP. Min load @ 3.6 Max load @ 4.0 Watcha guys think? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Again, you guys have helped me a ton. All makes much more sense now. I think I'm ready to make a set of samples in the load ladder (am I using that term correctly?). What sucks is I don't get my chrono until next Friday so won't be able to test them till then. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Yup... looking at the round from the side in directional light, I can see where the case narrows under the bullet. I can see the outline of the bullet in the case so I can now see how the bullet is squeezed into the case. I was getting confused earlier because I was expanding cases that I did not run through the resize die. The bullet was just sliding all the way into the case. Now I understand exactly what each die does so everything makes more sense. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ah. Thanks Grump. That make me feel better. For a second there I thought I completely overlooked a step. It's what happens when you spend too much time watching YouTube videos. LoL OK... so I think I'm ready to make my set of sample for the 124g bullet which is pictured. I assume I should go through the same process of getting the OAL for the other bullets. The 147g seems to have a slightly different profile so I'm guessing it may seat differently in the barrel. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Ok. Here is what seems like a dumb question to me... Do I need a separate crimp die? I am running the Lee 3 die set. Comes with full length sizing die, powder through expanding die and bullet seating die. I thought that the seating die also crimps the case. Now I'm not so sure. But I am also running the powder cop so with the powder measure, I got all 5 of my holes plugged! Where the heck would I put a factory crimp die? Here is a dummy round I made. It's at an OAL of 1.164. Chambers nicely from my mag and also ejects well. But I don't really notice a crimp. [emoji848]

Thanks Grumpy. So it sounds like I have to create a couple of dummy rounds in order to test the fit in my magazines. When testing, am I making sure the round chambers from the mag or is it just that it fits in the magazine? Assume it's the former but want to make sure. And should I test with each magazine or is this one size fits all? Oh... and you're right. I guess it's the powder die that I am talking about. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Moar questions! Got my boolits yesterday. I took a spent casing and one of the truncated cone 147g Blue Bullets. Slipped the bullet into the casing so it was rather long. I then dropped into the barrel (removed from slide). I then slightly pushed it in until it bottomed out. I carefully pulled it out and measured the OAL. I did this several times and I'm ending up with 1.1170 to 1.1175. 1. Is my procedure correct? 2. Does this OAL pass the smell test for a CZ 75 SP-01 OEM barrel? 3. Since I came out with a range of measures, do I go with min, max, median or mean? As far as adjusting my resizing die, do I adjust it so the flare is just enough to set the bullet inside so it doesn't fall out if I turn the case over? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Thanks fellas. Jack, that method is ingenious! Found a couple different methods sited on the web on how to lube but this seems the best to me. Thanks. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Have another question. So I have a few thousand cases that have gone through dry tumbling and they look pretty clean. Is there any other cleaning necessary at this point? Also, do you guys recommend case lube even if I have carbide dies? I've read mixed information on this. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Cool. Was thinking of measuring my pitching arm with the chrono to see if I can still throw some heat but that may not be a good idea. [emoji12] I don't have a rest but I have used sandbags as a brace in the past to sight new sights on my pistols. Will do the same. I may try the second batch of brass with some Nufinish or Brasso. I've read that both are used. I think I may have both in the garage. Will use what I have. Will also try the cut up dryer sheet idea. One other question. Probably wise that I wear gloves during this whole process, right? Even while pressing? Oh... just got notification from UPS that my powder and primers arrived. Can't wait to get home, unpack it all and read all the package labels. I don't have bullets yet so I have to do something with the stuff! Hahaha. My wife says I'm like a giant kid. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

More great advice on here. Thank you guys. Have a few questions. So I have never used a chrono so I did some browsing on the interwebz. Looks pretty straight forward. One question though... at what distance should I set the chrono from my shooting position? I've gathered that for pistol, about 10 feet should be good. I would assume that keeping this distance consistent when testing is important. By the way, already stressing over NOT shooting the damn chrono. LOL As far as case cleaning... I just got my tumbler yesterday. It's a dry tumbler. Ran my first batch of cases through it yesterday for 2 hours. Using crushed walnut shells. Didn't add anything else like polish. Want to keep things as simple as possible. The cases look pretty clean on the outside. Still a little dirty on the inside. Gonna run them some more, at an hour increment to see at what point they are acceptably clean. How anal do I need to be about this? Is this more personal preference? I've read that some people don't clean their brass at all. By the way, I won't get my chrono till next week so won't be able to test fire my loads till then. Do plan on loading them up this weekend. Can't wait. So far, I'm totally geeking out over all this stuff!!!

Thanks Jack. Just order the Caldwell Chrono. Looks to be a great value and will do what I need based on the reviews and YouTubes I watched. Always nice to be "forced" to buy more toys. Gonna tell my wife you insisted I buy if she asks what the heck it is. LOL I did see Darrell's load file. Downloaded it but on my work laptop and I haven't gotten around to install the app needed to unzip it. Won't unzip with the out of the box windows extract.

Hey fellas. So I should be loading my first set of test rounds at the end of the week. As mentioned, I bought a few sample packs of different bullets. How should I go about making the test rounds? Should I make about 10 of each bullet weight? How about powder charge... maybe make 10 round samples of each weight and powder charge combo, increasing the powder charge by 0.2 grains within the min and max for the load recipe? Also, as far as load data, should I use load data for lead bullets? I can't seem to find anything specific to coated lead bullets. As far as testing, I don't have a chronometer. I assume I will just be testing for best grouping and how each load shoots and see what I prefer. Should I get a chronometer? Is it essential at this stage for me? Thanks again for all the help. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Plan to build my reload bench this weekend. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Or my wife. Lol Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

I shoot Production with a CZ SP-01 manual safety. It's got some cajun parts in it. Pro package and a lightened recoil spring. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

Lots of great info here. Very helpful. So as I mentioned, I ordered a few different bullet weights from Blue Bullets and BBI. One of them that I ordered is the 147g from BB. Can someone tell me if there is anything special about the rim around the base of the bullet that I need to consider while loading?

Thanks fellas. I will certainly run some test loads but you've put my mind at ease. Would hate to find out I threw money away. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

For those using Blue Bullets, anyone using the .355? I just ordered some samples and now realize they're .355. This is all new to me so now concerned that I'm going to have problems. Shooting an SP-01.

Honestly, I've been shooting whatever I could get the cheapest. Didn't really care for brand or bullet weight. Blazer Brass, S&B, Fiochi, etc. All factory new, brass cased ammo. I didn't really pay much attention to the ammo I was shooting until recently. I am now shooting a lot more, competing and with all the stupid ammo restrictions here in California, I'm paying more attention to ammo and want to reload. Just makes sense. Last match I shot some Syntech 150g and liked it. I also noticed a lot of the guys at the matches that are reloading are shooting coated bullets. They're a bit more economical so figured it's good for the gander and all that. Not a bad idea to try a few different grain weights and seeing what I like and what shoots well out my gun. Thanks for the input. As I stated above, I think I'm going to order 124, 135 and 147 to see which I like. Good to know on the primers. Will stick with the Winchester then. I will definitely be plunking!! I read all the stickies on determining the OAL of your specific barrel and such. Want to take my time up front to avoid as many mistakes as possible. Good advice of not going down a rabbit hole chasing the bunny fart load. Honestly, right now my only goal is to produce rounds that consistently go boom and successfully exit the barrel and hit the target with some reasonable accuracy. Part of the reason I am reloading is out of necessity. They've made it really hard to buy ammo online here in California and come July, they will start doing background checks with every purchase of ammo and tracking how much you bought. Just want to avoid all that mess. Thanks for the info. I will check out the Sport Pistol powder availability. What would you recommend instead of TG for coated lead bullets? Maybe WST or WSF? Sport Pistol like HesedTech suggested? I have read that N320 runs well. Maybe that?

I've spent the last few months reading on the web and a couple of reloading books, lurking in this forum and talking to a couple of guys that reload to learn as much as I can about reloading. My press and other equipment arrive today. YAY!!! I've been collecting my brass for several months in prep. I am about to place an order for powder, primer and bullets and I just want to make sure I order the right stuff. I'm looking to make a 9mm Minor PF load that's on the softer side for USPSA. I will be shooting it out of my SP-01 Manual Safety model. I think I've settled on a coated lead bullet. So here's my plan. Would like some confirmation that I'm headed down the righ path here... Based on what I've read, I am leaning towards 147g projectile. My understanding is that the heavier bullet will produce a softer perceived recoil. Does this make sense or should I go 124g? I have a coupon for $25 off BBI so thinking of going with their 147g to take advantage of the savings. I've read that this bullet tends to need a shorter OAL in CZs. Should this be a concern or am I good to go? I plan on using Tightgroup for my load. Both for the cost but also there seems to be lots of folks using this successfully with coated lead bullets. Primers I'm going with Winchester simply because the 3 guys I know all use them. I have the Pro Package installed on my CZ and have shot at least 6000 factory rounds through it of all the common manufacturers. Should I stick to Federal primers or are Winchester Small Pistol Primers OK? Again, would appreciate some feedback on the above to make sure I don't buy a bunch of the wrong stuff. Also would be great if you can pass along any golden nuggets of information that you feel would help. As always, tons of appreciation for your help.

[/url] Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk Makes sense but I think at this stage in my match shooting, it's a little too abstract for me to consider while I'm running a stage. Who knows, maybe not but I'm still pretty tense when I'm shooting. Have a lot going on in the melon so adding one more factor think about may be too much. I will try to consider this concept when I'm doing my stage planning. It makes sense that on certain stages, time matters more than points and vice versa. Those longer stages that involve lots of movement, I will have to remind myself that get through it faster with a few more Charlie's will rank better than slowing down to assure alphas. The part where Stoeger talks about choosing where and how to engage a target depending on the hit factor is something I haven't thought of. It makes sense now. There were a couple of stages where I could have engaged a target from the starting position but this meant a longer shot. I chose to engage later to assure better hits. Once I get my scoring I will do some calcs to see if it would have worked out better if I did shoot them earlier but got charlies.

I had no hits on the make up shots I did on the tuxedo targets. There was one open target where I did a makeup that wasn't necessary in hindsight. I thought I threw a delta but it was a Charlie. Ended up with 2 alphas but not sure it was worth the time I spent. This is the kind of stuff I still don't understand. When to spend the extra time to make up a shot I think I threw. I'm guessing if it's a no hit or a mike it's worth it but not to make up a charlie. But what about a delta? Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk