Stevec717

Have you tried that Lim Pro in the IDPA box yet? Some seem to make it and some...not so much. I'd stick with one holster, it's hard enough getting a perfectly consistent draw.

Ok, not to hijack this thread, but I do have a question that touches on these issues.... I'm starting 3 gun and looking into a cart/wagon. Most carts have gun racks to hold the rifle and shotgun muzzle down (chamber flags inserted) stage to stage. Some people are using fled up wagons. They seems handy too. But the mounts are typically put on the top rails carrying the long guns horizontally. So as the wagon is pulled about the guns are sweeping anyone in front of, or behind the wagon. If they are flagged, is this considered safe? Is it the gun sweeping the issue, or a gun in someone hands sweeping the issue? Just wondering if there's an opinion out there on these two methods of transport and whether you all would feel better with long guns toted muzzles down.

+1,000. Can't go wrong with these. You could never replicate the complex cuts needed to wrap all the contours they do.

I think the Xtreme sear is the answer here. I have a Stock 2 Xtreme and a Stock 1. Both have similar springs and the Stock 1 is polished. They actually both have a similar measured trigger pull. But the Xtreme has a total surprise break- you apply pressure and then with no perceptible movement - snap. The Stock 1 you feel the sear sliding and t even feels like - are we there yet? I can only attribute the difference to the geometry of the Xtreme sear and hammer. An expert might be able to modify the stock 1 sear/hammer but I won't mess with that. If I get annoyed enough, I guess. Can buy the Xtreme parts and swap them out.

I have the Tanfo SSI Scales grips on a Stock 2 Xtreme. I love them. I wanted a fuller grip than the thin EG grips and although these don't "feel" grippy, once you apply pressure they don't move around at all. Kind of like your skin pours into the voids- but not uncomfortable.

+ 1000 on Talon Grips. Beautifully cut and follows the most complex contours perfectly. They make them in a nice grippy pebbled rubber (which I like) or the more hardcore abrasive finish (like sandpaper. Skateboard tape). Can't beat 'em.

There is a YouTube video I saw recently (wish I could recall instructor) that started with an experienced shooter who couldn't break 1.2-1.3. Within a couple hours, this guy had him hitting sub 1 second draws on target. Very interesting technique. Maybe I'll update this if I can find it..... Found it - Rangetime TS http://youtu.be/BMSlCyc-SQQ

At 20 yds some new guns are that far off out of the box. Have you tried shooting from a sandbag to sight in? Your group isn't bad and it could be that the rr sight needs a push. If that's ok, do you shoot with someone? Have a buddy load a dummy round or two in a magazine (so you won't know where it I s) and then observe you. When you hit the "click" it will be apparent to both of you if you are moving the gun before firing.

I don't know how to determine date of manufacture. But it was just purchased last month. I don't believe these sit around very long as they still seem hard to find. I am using the Henning gen 4 FP with factory (extreme) FPB. I tried that after I had misfires with the factory (extreme) FP. I can't say it's gotten any better or worse. Last night I shot 2 stages, about 70 shots and had one light strike. I don't even eject the round, just recock and bang. I'm up to the 15 lb hammer spring. I'm beginning to think I either have an intermittent issue with the FPB or a high primer. I do visually inspect, but these have been reloaded many times, it's possible. Not sure how I could check that.It's been suggested I,could eliminate the FPB altogether for a couple hundred round test. Just to know if that's where I need to focus. I can tell you it's 99.998% fpb issue. 13# should light off almost... almost anything w an extended pin. Do a pencil test. I did try the pencil test and I was quite surprised at the energy. It goes almost 2 feet clear of the barrel. Did it 20+ times and it was very consistent. Of course I'm only getting the misfire once in a while. I would note that looking at my spent brass (Winchester primers) that the dents are sharp and deep (I really don't think they're marginal strikes). So that leads me to think I either have a few primers not fully seated (though visually they inspect ok) or an intermittent hang up of the FP most likely). I guess I can maybe run a couple hundred factory new rounds and see how that goes.i could remove the FPB and see how that goes. May get some data points there. If it only happens once in 50 or 100 rds it's harder to chase down.

I don't know how to determine date of manufacture. But it was just purchased last month. I don't believe these sit around very long as they still seem hard to find. I am using the Henning gen 4 FP with factory (extreme) FPB. I tried that after I had misfires with the factory (extreme) FP. I can't say it's gotten any better or worse. Last night I shot 2 stages, about 70 shots and had one light strike. I don't even eject the round, just recock and bang. I'm up to the 15 lb hammer spring. I'm beginning to think I either have an intermittent issue with the FPB or a high primer. I do visually inspect, but these have been reloaded many times, it's possible. Not sure how I could check that. It's been suggested I,could eliminate the FPB altogether for a couple hundred round test. Just to know if that's where I need to focus.

Last weekend I set a USPSA match with a Qualifier stage "High Standards". Two strings of fire at 3 metric targets. From 20 yds- 2 shots each freestyle, mandatory reload, then 2 shots each strong hand only. Move up to 15 yds for second string. 2 shots each freestyle, mandatory reload then 2 shots each weak hand only. Got it? So I had a great first string and I thought a great second string. But when I finished the RO said " I have to give you 6 procedurals". Now, I get them from time to time and I usually know immediately what I did. But I just didn't get it. So- on weak hand only (my left hand shooting) my "Index point" for my free hand is on chest over left pectoral. Think- Pledge of Allegiance. He said I can't have my hand there. One penalty per shot taken. I was in disbelief. I have shot like this (it is my natural index point) at many matches and never called out. I'm fairly new so I assume an RO must know the rules better than me- right? So I asked - exactly where can I put my hand on my chest? He says midline. So it sounds official and I sulk away having ruined an otherwise good qualifier. (I know now I probably should have gotten the match director involved, but that's hindsight) So when I got home I looked it up to understand what I had done better and not ever do it again. The rule seems to be 10.2.8.2. - 10.2.8 If a course of fire stipulates shooting strong or weak hand only, a competitor will not be penalized for using the other hand (i.e. the other arm from the shoulder to the hand) to disengage an external safety, to reload or to correct a malfunction. However, the competitor will be issued one procedural penalty per shot fired while: 10.2.8.1 Touching the handgun with the other hand while firing shots; 10.2.8.2 Using the other hand to support the handgun, wrist or shooting arm while firing shots; 10.2.8.3 Using the other hand on a barricade or another prop to increase stability while firing shots. So, I would have to be deemed "using the other hand to support the handgun, wrist, or shooting arm while firing shots." I just don't see that applying to what I was doing. Of course, I'm biased. What say you? Should I have protested? (This is all moot now as scores are final) I guess the real question is - do I try to change my position for this type of fire, or do I stick with it and be ready to defend it? Thx Still learning Steve

I have a Stock II X (which had the X Spring) and changed to a Henning XL. It is a little longer and lighter. Been more reliable with lighter hammer spring.

Forgot - one more..It also comes with 4 Magazines with aluminum EG base pads. These are nicely made and help it drop out a little quicker. Also I had to get over these getting dinged up hitting the concrete or gravel during a stage, but they are very durable and won't break like I've seen happen to plastic or sheet metal base pads. It also comes with a very deluxe case and cleaning kit. Which seems very impressive until you get it home and put the case to sleep with all your other gun cases in the closet. But, If you like to use the original cases to go to the range, this is a very nice one. Sorry for the dirty gin - maybe next time I do the full salon cleaning, I can take some glamor shots.....

A couple more....

OK so I'm very late with my follow up but i've just been too damn busy enjoying this gun. Here are some quick detail pictures as promised. Although the gun was very smooth out of the box, I have to tinker so I have now taken it all apart and done some touch up polishing and replaced some springs with lighter. Trigger was a very smooth 9 lbs/ 4 lbs DA/SA. It now comes in at a 7 lb./ 2.8 lbs. DA/SA. Plus I now have carnal knowledge of the gun. (I never feel connected until I take it apart.) The trigger bar, trigger plunger, and entire sear assembly are polished well from the factory. Truth is most of my improvements were from the springs. I was able to clean up and smooth out the mag release a bit better. Besides the polishing, to my knowledge, the firing pin, trigger plunger, entire sear assembly, hammer, recoil rod, and all springs are extreme (from the custom shop) parts. The recoil rod is the tapered cone type which spreads the load across the contact point on the frame much better. Of course the sights are also upgraded - fully adjustable LPA rear and fiber optic front. Note - these grips are not factory. The are "Tanfo Scales". The OE grips were machined aluminum and were very beautiful and grippy but too thin for my taste. These fill my hand much better. I have mixed feelings about the finish. It looks beautiful when clean. But because it is slightly rough (think 1000 grit paper) it scuffs every time you put in or take out of the holster. If you get a drop of oil on it you better work the whole thing or you'll have one shiny spot and the rest almost "flat". Love this gun - and I shoot better with it than anything I have ever owned.

Thanks - this is great info. And I love the pictures with micrometer - who says you believe everything you read on the Internet!

I did a thorough polishing of the FP channel, FPB hole and lightly touched up the FPB itself. Initial passes with 400 grit on a .22 cal jag and oil turned with a drill moderately. Then 600 and 1000. Finished with ramrodz giant qtips wth polishing compound. Cleaned it all out with brake cleaner and compressed air and then wiped it all down and lightly oiled. Reassembled. Everything feels much smoother now like the FPB. Someone also suggested FP energy test to check for consistency. So with gun pointed straight up, insert a new, unsharpened pencil (eraser first) in bore. Fire gun and see how high the FP propels the pencil. Repeat. It is consistently throwing the pencil 24" clear of the barrel. A hang up of the FP would manifest as a short throw. Didn't see any after a few dozen tries. Not super scientific but something. I think I'll go back to the 14 lb hammer spring (from 15) and see if I get consistent ignition now.

Thanks - must be close. Maybe the OAL is rounded up in the specs or something. That's helpful.

I've used a 22 caliber chamber hone to polish the firing pin channel in my CZs, it would probably work well with the Tanfo also. To polish the firingpin channel FIRST!, remove the extractor and spring. Part of it extends into the channel. I put polishing compound on a barrel cleaning patch and use the patch holder chucked up in a power drill. If it's real rough, you can chuck up some 600, 800 or so grit sandpaper first. But don't remove much or other issues will be created. I prefer a drill as it's slower and more controllable. Works on the firing pin safety hole too. Yes, I have the whole ramrodz assortment ( couldn't think of the name). Good advice about the extractor I might not have thought to do that. Although the action was nicely smoothed on this gun, other machining not so much. I polished the mag release channel as it was very rough - much better after. So I wouldn't be surprised if the FP channel is rough too.

I've used a 22 caliber chamber hone to polish the firing pin channel in my CZs, it would probably work well with the Tanfo also. To polish the firingpin channel FIRST!, remove the extractor and spring. Part of it extends into the channel. I put polishing compound on a barrel cleaning patch and use the patch holder chucked up in a power drill. If it's real rough, you can chuck up some 600, 800 or so grit sandpaper first. But don't remove much or other issues will be created. I prefer a drill as it's slower and more controllable. Works on the firing pin safety hole too.

I think that one has a problem in the IDPA box - overall length shows as 9" the box is 8-3/4"

So I am new to Tanfo and loving may Stock II extreme. Mostly USPSA and practice. I am getting used to the form factor and DA/SA and would like to stay with it for IDPA. However, the Stock II seems to have weight and dust cover issues for IDPA legality. If I'm reading it right, it appears the Stock I with its partial dust cover and lighter weight +/- 39 oz should be legal. Anyone else using a stock I in IDPA? Have I misinterpreted the problems with stock II in IDPA? Thx

(Reposted from the shop - probably should have been over here) I recently got a TF Stock II Extreme. The trigger was significantly better than a Stock II out of the box. All internals were nicely polished (though not perfect) from the factory. Trigger measured about 10/4 lbs DA/SA. Very clean break, no creep. Love the gun, shot it a few times then after trying a friends worked Stock II, decided it could use a little more trigger work. So I got all the various springs and took it apart. Took some time doing additional smoothing on plunger, trigger bar, pivots, etc. Springs- Changed recoil spring to 8 lb. Changed plunger spring to 20 lb (24 lb stock) Changed hammer spring to 14 lb (16 lb stock) Note: I did not use the lightest springs for any of these, usually middle weight. It already has the extreme hammer, sear, and firing pin. The trigger turned out beautiful and measured just under 3 lbs (2.8) in SA and 7 lbs DA. First and second time out it functioned perfectly (about 150 rds). Third time out I had a few (about 1 in 10 or 15) light primer strikes. I use all Winchester Sm Pistol (9mm) So I though maybe I was too close to the edge. I got a Henning x long firing pin which is supposed to help ignite with lighter springs. Next time out, I had fewer (maybe 1 in 20) FTFire (light strikes) but still a few. No Bueno for competition. So that's the story. Here's the questions. I have a match tomorrow. So for now I bumped the hammer spring up to the 15 lb just to gain reliability. I didn't mention the firing pin spring. This preloads the pin backwards (against the hammer). Here's where I'm confused. TF makes 2 weight springs for this - light and medium. It would seem a stronger spring would make it harder for the pin to move forward. However, they list the light spring for hand loads and/or softer primers and the stiffer spring for factory ammo and/or harder primers. This sounds backwards to me. Can anyone explain? Also - I don't believe the plunger spring should have any effect on primer strikes - is this correct? Don't know where else I can go but hammer spring, I already have the longer pin, maybe a stiffer firing pin spring? (But that would seem backwards) Anyone with any experience tuning a Stock II? Update - shot a match today 150 rds - no misfires. (W/15 lb hammer spring). I'd like to go back to 14 if I can retain reliability.

I recently got a TF Stock II Extreme. The trigger was significantly better than a Stock II out of the box. All internals were nicely polished (though not perfect) from the factory. Trigger measured about 10/4 lbs DA/SA. Very clean break, no creep. Love the gun, shot it a few times then after trying a friends worked Stock II, decided it could use a little more trigger work. So I got all the various springs and took it apart. Took some time doing additional smoothing on plunger, trigger bar, pivots, etc. Springs- Changed recoil spring to 8 lb. Changed plunger spring to 20 lb (24 lb stock) Changed hammer spring to 14 lb (16 lb stock) Note: I did not use the lightest springs for any of these, usually middle weight. It already has the extreme hammer, sear, and firing pin. The trigger turned out beautiful and measured just under 3 lbs (2.8) in SA and 7 lbs DA. First and second time out it functioned perfectly (about 150 rds). Third time out I had a few (about 1 in 10 or 15) light primer strikes. I use all Winchester Sm Pistol (9mm) So I though maybe I was too close to the edge. I got a Henning x long firing pin which is supposed to help ignite with lighter springs. Next time out, I had fewer (maybe 1 in 20) FTFire (light strikes) but still a few. No Bueno for competition. So that's the story. Here's the questions. I have a match tomorrow. So for now I bumped the hammer spring up to the 15 lb just to gain reliability. I didn't mention the firing pin spring. This preloads the pin backwards (against the hammer). Here's where I'm confused. TF makes 2 weight springs for this - light and medium. It would seem a stronger spring would make it harder for the pin to move forward. However, they list the light spring for hand loads and/or softer primers and the stiffer spring for factory ammo and/or harder primers. This sounds backwards to me. Can anyone explain? Also - I don't believe the plunger spring should have any effect on primer strikes - is this correct? Don't know where else I can go but hammer spring, I already have the longer pin, maybe a stiffer firing pin spring? (But that would seem backwards) Anyone with any experience tuning a Stock II?