[which 617]

I found the 6 inch barreled 617 with full lugged barrel a bit too muzzle heavy for my taste. I puirchased the 4 inch version and enjoy shooting it. I wish they made the 6 inches without the full barrel lug much like the olf K-22's. I am tempetd to purchse a 6 inch version and have the front part of the lug milled off.

[Help choosing a 1911 single stack for USPSA/IDPA/IPSC]

I want to add a 45ACP. I have the XDM 9mm 5.25. I could get the Springfield 45ACP XDM with a 5.25" barrel...a guy in my shooting league suggested the SA 1911 Trophy Match. Only shooting IPSC, USPSA and IDP. Not for defense, carry, etc. Just matches.

Why one over the other? Or should I go an entirely different route? I was looking at the DAN WESSON RZ-45 Heritage and the DAN WESSON VALOR. The valor is the more expensive at about $1,950, and that would be my upper limit.

Any other ideas? A gently used gun would work.

Thanks.

My SA Trophy Match is real tigh and very relaible but the factory trigger was way too heavy. I finally repaced the innards with a C&S 3.5 lb set. My Dan Wesson Pointman came with a full length rib, adjustable sights and a great factory trigger right out of the box. Both guns are equally reliable and accurate.

[Accuracy of S&W 610 vs 646 PC]

I have both a S&W 646 and a 4 inch 610. I mounted a red dot on each one and could not see any difference in acuracy at 25 yards with 40 S&W ammo.

[40 cal 686?]

I use minor pf loads in my S&W646. I do not believe I could handle major pf loads in that light gun.

[Blue Dot and 9MM?]

I had some Blue Dot left over from my shotshell loadind and used it up in 9mm with a 147 gr. FMJ. Not the best bchoice of powders for 9mm.

[Stupid Lee priming system..<rant>....]

Junk the Lee's and purchase a Dillon 550 from an experienced user. Changepover form large to small primers as well as caliber changes are a snap and no issues with any brand of primer. Cut your losses and run to the nearest Dillon 550.

I reloaded back in the 80's for a year while shooting local matches (mostly 44 mag on a lee turret). In 2009, when I got the chance to expand my gun collection, I decided to start reloading again. First thing I did was get me a Lee single stage (challenger? Cast iron one). Quickly overtook that setup due to volume. Jumped into a Pro 1000 next. Took me a good month or so before I got it rocking correctly..the primer system being the fail point. Then I went to dual Pro's...one for large and one for small. These are good, relatively inexpensive machines that make good range ammo...once you take the time to set them up. They are also notorious for spitting powder (IMHO I think it's the relatively small OD on the shellplate combined with the requisite rotation speed to keep things working right...hard to 'creep' the shells around). So you spend a good bit of time taking it down and cleaning...and cleaning the priming system in between that...and tweaking it back after you take it apart to clean it...etc. So, after about 16 months of this, I thought "Get Thee a Loadmaster!"....

...that was 4 weeks ago...and I can honestly say the Loadmaster's priming system is a WORSE design than the PRO's (which I thought was impossible). The press itself is great. Lot's of vids on getting it rotating correctly and smoothly. Setup of the dies...well, Lee dies are pretty much the standard for reloading good ammo (not match grade..but VERY good). Look, I own a plastics machine shop (industrial parts...not walmart stuff)...so I know what kinds of plastic should be used for applications. The plastic they picked for the priming system is NOT a glass filed material...matter of fact it's just a polyethylene or polypropylene material. THERE is where the problem is...the primers are pushed forward by a small plastic shuttle, then the METAL primer seating pin pushes it up through a opening in the plastic cover. The cover hole it goes through helps allgn the primer on the pin. This is all great until you get the first primer that jams going up. You can't go up and it won't go down...take it aprt...clean...start again...5 rounds later...JAM!. <Sigh>...afte 5 straight days I finally figured out that when the very first primer jammed it stretched the little arm on the primer shuttle AND enlarged the hole through which the primer passes. This not only allows the primers to move around more in the..er..shuttle bay but it also allows the primer to hand off the primer pin more...and the enlarged hole, instead of aligning the primer, catches the side and tilts it. <sigh> Called midway..and $22 later (primer tray cover and primer shuttle + shipping) I was back in busines..FOR 3 DAYS...then the SOB did it again. I decided then...there has to be better....

Went to several shops (none carried Dillon). Spent an evening loading with a friend on his RCBS, another with an LNL (I think his is the one before what's out now), and another friend with a 650.

I watched very carefully...not only with what the turret was doing..but what the operator was having to do to make it operate smoothly. Both the RCBS and the Hornady were 'tinkers'. Every so often they had to stick their fingers in and thump something to align it (which makes a 'tink' sound). The guy on the 650? Brass-Pull-Brass-Pull-check powder-bullet-pull and out come the rounds. I never once saw him do anything but stick the brass or bullet in (he wasn't using a case feeder). Now take it with a grain of salt..he might only load one caliber..so it's set and he doesn't have to monkey it. I went in expecting, like the Lee, to never be able to get up to speed..and STAY THERE. The Dillon seemed to be able to do that.

So, I ordered my 550 from Brian. A 550? But you know HOW to reload...and you have used a progressive. Yeah, which is EXACTLY why I got the 550. The Auto progressive can be a nightmare. The ability to manually rotate appeals to me. I load some calibers that you REALLY have to pay attention to (50 AE and .357 mag for my other Desert Eagle...you really have to watch crimp and powder loads). So it gives me a "second strike" ability in case I miss something. Since I load about 8 calibers (all handgun but .223) I needed something that was easy to switch. I REALLY looked at the SDB...small, hand gun only, progressive...but...proprietary dies, ONLY hand guns, no casefeeder option..I then looked at the 550/650 series. The 650 is NICE...but it's fully progressive, slightly more than the 550 in cost and upkeep (conversion kits - dies-cf plates) and, when I looked / played with it at my friends house, I was really NOT liking the semi-hidden primer system. <insert flames and agreemant comments here>. I read these forums, other blogs (not that any are as good as BE's...wink wink). I watched scores of video's. I then picked the RL550. It met my needs even though I (kinda) already know what to do. I load several calibers...so wanted a quick switch system. I did look hard at the 650...and when I was 'trying and failing' to find a used one..I realized one of the biggest reasons Brian gives is what you need to think about. THE DILLONS SELL FOR ALMOST NEW PRICES!! Hello? Spend $700 with Brian and decide after a few months you REALLY need the 650...sell it and you're not out that much (watch those fee's). So I have got me a setup and collected enough bits to start in with about 3 calibers. I have dies (Lee) for a lot more...but I'll see how the Dillon ones work versus the Lee's...before I start replacing my die brand. Them suckers are 'spensive!

Now all I have to do is wait...<sigh>

Old picture of the Lab...

[6 round 617 speedloaders?]

Does anybody make a good speedloader for the 6 shot S&W 617? I've got a couple of the HKS ones, and while they are OK for centerfire rounds, they pretty much suck for .22. I've seen the DS-10 loaders for the 10 rounders, do they mske a 6 round vetsion?

Dave Skrzela who makes the DS-10 10 round version also makes K-frame 6 round versions.

[Load data for VV N320]

I believe Schanz Supply in Otsego, Mkichigan has a supply of VV N-310 and N-320 in 4lb. containers.

[147s how fast is fast enough or too fast?]

I use either 3.5 gr. Bullseye or 4.1 gr. WSF behind a 147 gr. FMJ for ca. 900 fps.

[What replaces N320?]

I prefer WST for minor loads and WSF for major loads.

[.40 brass to watch out for]

I shoot 40 minor and use any brass except AMERC.

[Trojan 5.0 40 S&W loads]

3.2 gr. PROMO, WSP, behind either the 165 or 180 gr. JHP at 1.128" OAL for ca. 800 fps. works well in my STI Trojan using Metalform magazines.

[Less recoil load for Steel Challenge shoot?]

I'm doing my first Steel Challenge shoot this weekend and was wondering if I should load a softer shooting load than I normally shoot. The guy I spoke with that runs the shoot said that guys that shoot larger calibers tend to load a lighter load for these shoots. I normally shoot a standard load of 4.3gns of Clays behind 200gn Rainier bullets but was thinking of trying a batch at 3.6 grns and another at 4.0grns to see if there is a difference in recoil as compared to the 4.3 loads. I will also take a chrono to test all of them to see what speed difference there is if any (I've been meaning to test my regular loads anyway).

For those of you that shoot steel and/or USPSA/IDPA, do you lighten your loads for shoots? Am I over thinking this trying to lessen my recoil? I must say, I am a bit nervous but excited to get this first shoot under my belt.

Cannot help with a plated bullet bload since I use the 185 gr. LSWC in my 1911's. 3.8 gr. HS-700X, Rem 2 1/2 gives the 185 gr. LSWC ca 715-720 fps with bullseye level accuracy and very mild recoil.

[Light 45 target loads]

Hi; I'm new to reloading, about 1000 rounds so far. I would like to lighten up the recoil of my DK1911 Smith & Wesson 45. I'm using 4.7 grains VV320, Lasercast 200gr LSWC's at 1.250 & this is minimum according to VV. This gun has never had a jam right from new, never failed to extract & is accurate, I would like to lighten the recoil though. I see that when you go to a lighter bullet much more powder is needed, why? VV cautions against loading with less than minimum listed charge. I want to stay with Lasercast as I get no leading & the VV is great. I can drop down to a 180 LSWC, it just seems that with more powder I'm not accomplishing much. Thanks, Randy

When I used 200 gr. LSWC for bullseye pistol out to 25 yards my favorite load was 3.6 gr. Clays behind the 200 gr. Speer LSWC for ca 720 fps. I switched to 3.8 gr. HS-700X behind the 185 gr. LSWC for the same velocity, equivalent accuracy and lighter recoil.

[WST and Berry's Plated]

Oh wise ones,

Fairly new to reloading but things have gone well so far. Just made my 3000th round last night. Switched from Clay's to WST because my one custom gun (being pretty tight) wasn't cycling real well (especially if it got a little dirty) on 4.0 of Clays. So here's my questions.

Using Berry's plated 230 grn RN, WST 4.5, 1.255", CCI 300, mixed brass through 5" barrels. Chrono unknown.

1. With Berry's being plated should I be using lead data? I have seen some comments that Berry's recommends "low to midrange jacketed data". At 4.5 I'm at the midrange for jacketed data. Does this sound legit? I don't want to get into pressure issues obviously. I found one old website showing 4.5 WST under 230 LRN at 20,100 CUP. Still legit but getting up there.

2. Anyone else have issues with a few flakes of WST falling off the top of the powder bar with every stroke of the reloader? I did only 175 rds last night and I had a light dusting of powder around the front left of the reloader when I was done. Kinda lame. I didn't have that with Clay's due to the bigger flakes.

I really liked Clay's- alot- but I just need something with a little more oomph to reliably cycle tight guns. With the restriction of Berry's plated bullets- ie working at "midrange for FMJ" I'm at the maxload again for the round. Obviously there are some easy fixes here in changing springs, changing bullets and loading hotter but I'm trying to work with what I have.

I have found that for the same powder charge and bullet weight the plated bullet will provide significantly lower velocity compared to the lead. I use WST in a Dillon 550 and have not noticed any powder leaking around the powder bar.

[44 Mag Plinking Load Request]

Trail Boss powder will provide nice mild plinking loads with either lead or plated bullets. You will obtain lower velocity with a plated bullet of the same weight using the same powder charge. I tend to use the minimum loads on the Hodgdon website for lead bullets and approach the maximum loads with plated bullets.

[VV 310 Help]

I use 3.8 gr. VV N-310 and WLP with the 185 gr. Star LSWCHP.

Have you shot your load in a1911? Wanted to know what spring you recommend with your load. 16 or 18 lb spring? Thank for your help....

3.8 gr. VV N-310, WLP, 185 gr. Star LSWCHP has been my bullseye psitol load for the 50 yard line. It's avery accurate load. In my S&W 845 I use the factory blong spring. In my SA Trophy Match and an older accurized 1911 that same load functions well with a 16 1/2 lb. recoil spring.

[WAA Lite in 45 ACP]

Has anyhone tried using WAALite powder in 45 ACP with either the 185 gr. LSWC or 230 gr. FMJ? I use WAALite in 12 ga. and would also like to use it in 45 ACP - it's a very uniform metering and clean burning powder.

[Primers cracking - help]

I use 3.8 gr. VV N-310, 185 gr. Star LSWCHP and WLP for a number of years - no problems expereinced.

[Any reason for a 9mm 1911?]

About the lightest loads which were accurate and reliable in my 45's were 185 gr. LSWC at ca 710-725 fps. That provides approximately the same PF as the 9mm 147 gr. at 900 fps. I enjoy shooting 9mm 1911's since the brass is much less expensive. I owned a SA 1911 Target in 9mm which was reliable but would not group much beter that 5+ inches at 50 ft. After two trips to the factory I sold it and purchased a Dan Wesson PM-9 which provides nice tight one inch ten shot groups at that distance.

[Switching from G35 to Para 16.40]

Im sure i will get mixed opinions from you 1911, custom 1911, and glock shooters about this. I just miss shooting and holding that metal frame. Not big into USPSA where i feel i need to invest a couple of thousand into a gun. Just thinking about selling the glocks and buying another 1911 for carry and one limited. love the G35 so i may keep it in the safe anyway and just use a Para for shooting limited. what are yalls thoughts... Glock or 1911?

Two different beast with entirely different trigger systems. I shoot a G-17 and S&W M&P9Pro as well as a nu,ber of 1911's and PO wide bodies. The 1911 style trigger is the easiest for me to get fast and accuraet second shots.

[.38 Super vs .357]

I have 627's in both 38 Super and 357. Personally I would opt for the 38 Super version. If Iwere to do it again I would not purchase the 357 version.

[Reloading the 8 shot 38 revolver]

As stated previously the use of shorter cases with stiffer moonclips will be the best you can do with the 8 shot 627. There is no substitute for gravity and those big holes in the cylinder of the 625. With 230 gr. RN bulets the moonclips disappear into the chambers of the 625.

[Shoot fast or shoot accurate?]

Accuracy should be your first gal. Speed comes with familiarity and time.

[problems with bullseye powder]

So I have about a pound of bullseye powder that I am trying to use up before before I crack the seal on my 8# jug of solo 1000 and thought I would use it on the 1000 rainier plated 180gr rn bullets I had laying around. I am shooting a 5" sti and am having some problems. Here is what I am doing on my Dillon 550:

1.18" OAL

5.2 gr Bullseye powder

Winchester primers

I went and chrono'd this load and out of my 10 shots got a range of 887-1005 fps. This seemed like a huge variation to me so I went back and loaded 10 more, this time double checking my powder charge and each charge was no more than .05 from 5.2. Went back out to the range and same thing.

Anybody got any ideas? Am I loading too long? I like loading to that length because I have always heard that STIs like em a little long and have never had any issues with the length.

I assume you are loading 45 ACP. I have dound that using the same weight bullet and powder the plated bullets will always provide significantly lower velocity. Secondly as a previous responder mentioned plated bullets can be damaged by overcrimping. I only remove the flare from the belling operation.

Thirdly is you are using a Lee FCD discard and use a normal crimp die - the Lwee FCD tends to swage the bullet in the loaded round.

If that doe not help then I am out of suggestions. Kowever i have used Bullseye for ca 50 years and it always has provided excellent accuracy and very low velocity variations.

PS: Make sure you are ca 10 ft away from the chrono.