TonyT
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Posts posted by TonyT
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I use the Hoeppner & Schumann Speed Sec holster from Competitive Edge Dynamics. It is a speed holster which fits every S&W revolver, be it K, L or N frame.
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I noticed a significant difference in the time it took to get back on target between my 627PC and 327PC JM. That alloy framed, titanium cylindered 327PC JM comes back on target faster than the 627.
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So I've been using ranch moon clips and Wilson moon clips they work great my reposed are smooth and getting quicker my cylinder is chamfered nicely but would a hearthco that holds the rounds super tight and doesn't let them sag or rattle really improve my performance is it worth the cost
For .45 I don't know that they would offer that much improvement, but I've only tried them once. For .38 in a 8-shot they would be about mandatory.
Matt
Not if you use W-W nickeled brass - thew rAnch Products moonclis hold them quite tight.
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I have a STI Trojan in 40 with some of the issues you describe. When I decided to purchase a 1911 in 9mm I opted for a Dan Wesson PM-9 -reliability right out of the box with the very inexpensive Metalform 9mm and 38 Super m agazines wich CDNN was selling for ca $10.
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Most single stack 45's and 9mm's ssem to perform very reliably. It appears that 1911's in 40S&W are more finnicky feeders but my Dan Wesson Pointman in 40 S&W had been very reliable. My only experience with wide bodied 1911's are PO's in 9mm, 40 & 45 and they all have been very reliable.
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Check with the MA GOAL (Gun Owners ction League)organization. My son lives in MA but does not own a similar firearm.
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I would invite you but I am in Fountain Hills for the winter and my Dillon 550 is in Michigan. If you have any mechanical aptitude you should not have any problems with gthe Dillon 550, Initially treat it as a single stage press and visually inspect including the powder drop until you gain proficiency and speed. If I were not going home next week I would tell you to purchase the Dillon 550 and I would gladly work with youo set it up and guide you through the process.
PS: Do you shoot Tuesday steel at Rio Salado?
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My old bulseye psitol load was 3.6 gr. Clays, WLP, behind the Speer 200 gr. LSWC at ca 720 fps.
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With the high pressure cartridges such as 9mm and 40 S&W I tend to scrap thebrass after 4 reloads. With low pressure cartridges such as 45 ACP and brass used in revolvers I use it until it strats fraying at the case mouth.
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Several years ago I managed to purchase some SP Magnum primers by mistake and did not realize it until I had about 500 rounds loaded. These were mild loads in 40 S&W and they were ca 20 fps faster than those with the standard primers.
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I have never seen any pressure tested data supplied by W-W for WST in 9mm. In contrast Alliant/Hercules had lots of data for Bullseye in 9mm.
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Has anyone else noticed the RCBS ChargeMaster 1500 Dispenser/Scale to be sensitive to this or, other powders as far as trying to actually soften and try to eat into the plastic base as well as the clear tube? I had a heck of a time getting this powder loose from the clear plastic tube and, the insides of the green base after sitting just over night? There was still, a sticky feeling after removing the powder It's been two days I haven't checked it again yet but if it's still a little tacky feeling any suggestions on what I could use to wipe it down with? I thought about a damp rag with Alcohol but I'm open to all suggestions. I'm for sure, going to drain it after every session from now on as these things aren't cheap. Thanks!
Titegroup has a high notroglycerin content and nitroglycerin is a great solvent for some plastics.
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Revolvers in 22RF are temperamenatal. For reliable ignition it is best not to attempt lightening the trigger pull. My 617's trigger has really smoothed out and with more than 10,000 rounds it is a very reliable performer.
Apex does offer a hammer which is supposed to improve the trigger pull and judging by the favorable review of Apex offerings I would conclude it would perform as advertised - whether the small differnce is worthwhile is a personnal value judgement.
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How well does it shoot? My old Colt Gold Cup NM wobbled from side to side but shot the snot out of the 10 ring in bullsye pistol matches. My SA TM still has some wobble but matches the performance of that old Colt. My only gripe with the SA TM was the heavy trigger - I eventually replaced the innards with a set from Frerking Gun Works at Camp Perry.
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I do not use Titegroup - it burns too hot and has too many fine particles. I prefer the ball powders with very uniform paricle size such as WST for mild oads (725 to 775 fps) and WSF for full power loads.
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I use the Morgan optical shooting glasses with the replaceable lenses which are favored by many shotgun shooters. I have an extra lens for my right eye corrected to see the front sight.
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I'm glad that you were not injured as a result of the kaboom. I would suspect inattention to some detail during the loading process. For many years I loaded on an old RCBS A-2 single stage press. I purchased my first progressive a Dillon 550 and had the first squibs I had experienced in over 35 years of reloading. I was making up some test rounds with various powder weights and somehow my attention slipped. Since then I clear the press before chaging powder weights. In 40 S&W I tend to use WST for light loads (ca 725-775 fps) and WSF for full power loads - both are easily seen in the case before bullet seating (particulary easy to see WT since it is light grey in color). Knock wood, I have not experienced another squibb in the past 12 years. I avoid Titegroup becasue it has too many fine particles which tend to be all over the loaders shellplate and it burns too hot.
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You can run a 45 ACP pistol with iron sights in IDPA and USPSA but you would be at a disadvantage in the bullseye competition. I was away from bullseye from mid 1960's thru 1990. When I shot all the guns were equipped with iron sights. I was very surprised to see that virtually all the shooters were using pistols in all three matches with red dot sights - those red dot sights do help these aging eyes. Now I shoot USPSA, IDPA and Steel Challenge with iron sighted guns.
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For what it's worth I use Metalform 9mm and 38 Super magazines in my Dan Wesson 9mm. Both have been super reliable.
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At the speed I shoot (read slow) the difference attributed to bullet velocity would be meaningless.
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I have a STI Trojan in 40 S&W which is temperamental with regard to magazines. THe Metalform 40 S&W magazines feed reliably but do not lock the slide after firing the last rounds. The Metalform 10mm magazines have been more reliable performers. In contrast my old Dan Wesson Poinmans in 9mm, 40 S&W and 45ACP function totally reliably with standard Metalform magazines.
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I have an STI Trojan in 40S&W and it is a good pistol. However, I wish Dan Wesson would make their Pointman in 40 S&W again. I have older DW Pointman's in 9mm, 40 S&W and 45ACP and they are functionally flawless with inexpensive Metalfrom magazines. The STI Trojan in 40 S&W is a bit more temperamental in terms of magazine selection.
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A friend has a Trojan in 9mm and swera by the Wilson magazines. My Trojan in 40 S&W is the least reliable 1911 I own when it comes to keeping the slide open afer firing the last round. In contrast my Dan Wesson Pointman's in 9mm, 40 S&W and 45 ACP function reliably with the inexpensive Metalform magazines.
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I zero all of them for 50 ft.
P18 9mm?
in Para
Posted
I shoot a PO18-9LDA. It is very accurate and reliable. One has to familarize onself with their unique long double reset trigger.