TonyT
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Posts posted by TonyT
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I don't understand the problem. You simply remove teh toolhead with the powder measure and dump the powder out - what could be simpler?
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I learned very quickly when I purchased my first progressive press that one has to clear all the stations and start from scratch when clearing an obstruction/jam.
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Personally I prefer the Dillon 550 - I want to see the case full of powder before seating the bullet. I examine each case before sizing and discard any stray brass (AMERC or 380's mixed with 9mm), the powder drop before bullet seating and case gauge each finished cartridge. I still turn out ca 250 rounds per hour.
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I am thinking about buying the PXT 16-40 from Para and wondered if there was other mags on the market that worked well for a cheaper price than the mags you can buy from Para? There $49 for the 16rd..
This is also my first 1911 model in years and I'm hoping to use it in the limited SPSC and USPSA.
Any help will be appreciated.
Check CDNN's website. Several months ago they had some PO mags on sale.
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Both my S&W659 and 5906 have been totally reliable. The trigger on the 5906 feels signkificantly better in the Da mode than the one on the 659. The 659 also had a miserable method of attaching the right ambi release lever - a Phillips head screw which would frequently loosen - that was cured on the 5906.
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Avoid AMERC brass like the plahue. S&B brass sometimes exhibits a bit of dificulty in repriming but otherwise is excellent brass. Recently I have seen the federal 9mm NT brass with crimpoed primer pockets and toss it into the scrap heap. Nothjing wrong with either military or NT crimped cases just not wotrth the effort to remove the crimp when other brass is plentifull.
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Hello everyone I'm new here and would love to hear some input on reloading .40 S&W for my Sig 229. I plan on shooting Hornady XTP and HAP bullets in 180 grain weight. I was wondering if anyone else was reloading this same bullet and what kind of powder and primers folks were using?
Welcome to the forum. I shoot a Sihg 229 Sport in 40 S&W. For light loads I have used 155 to 180 gr. plated or jacketed bullest with WST or American Select. GFor full power loads , jacketed bullest with WSF. I usually use Winchester primers in my semi auto and Federal in my lightly sprung revolvers. I have also used both Remington and CCI primers in my semi autos.
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hi,
i have two different kinds of primers.
1. CCI Large Pistol, used for my reloading activities for .45 acp.
2. CCI BR-2 (the large rifle benchrest type), from the heirship of my father.
now my question:
the dimension of a LP primer and the BR-2 primers is identically.
i measured both with a micrometer caliper.
can i use the BR-2 type for reloading my .45 acp and what will happen if i do?
The diameter of large pistol and large rifle primers is identical. However the large rifle primer is taller than the large pistol primer and will not interchange.
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Okay, I'm not new to reloading, but have been using a Dillon Square Deal with solid success. Now I'd like to begin reloading .223 & .308 so I picked up an XL650. My question is what dies to purchase. Are there really any differences? I've been told to go with a 'small base' or 'full length' sizing die since I will be shooting both calibers in semi-auto rifles. I've also read to go with Lee Factory Crimp dies for the same reason. Beyond that, I'm wondering how much if any difference there is between the various manufacturers. I will also be loading 9mm & .357 mag on this new machine and will need dies for these as well.
Any help would be greatly appreciated, I'm itching to get the 650 up and rollin'.
Thanks in advance
I uise a Dillon 550. For loading lead bullets I prefer the Dillon dies since one can remove the isnsert from the seating die for cleaning and then quickly put it back together without disturbing the seating depth. For jacketed bullets I have used Dillon, Lyman, Lee, RCBS and Hornady dies. This is all for straight walled pistol calibers.
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Mine was an early model so the first thing I did was call STI for an RA number and then sent the barrel back for their updated ramp cut. I am also running Wilson 47FX magazines with an EGW Higher Mag catch and it runs like a sewing machine.
What was the serial range of your gun? Mine is TS 5655.
Tony
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I have been using a 147 gr. FMJ with 3.5 gr. Bullseye for ca 910 fps. A nice accurate load in my 9mm's.
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I have been jusing Metalform and MecGar magazines which have functioned perfectly in my Dan Wesson. Where is V. Tripp located and how does one contact him? My best bet is to send it there to get it fixed once and for all.
Thanks to all for your helpfull replies.
I don't have enough posts to put up the link to their site, but if you google Tripp Research, then you will find it...or just put in .com after trippresearch and you will be good to go.
Simply call them and usually you will end up talking to Virgil, Shari (his wife) or Aaron. They are located in Texas...used to be in Alpine, but they have been in the process of moving to Bastrop, TX. I was lucky to get mine down there while Virgil still had everything he needed at their old facility, hence why it only was there for about 5 days and then back to me. Wait might be a little longer now that they are trying to get everything in one location, but you should call them to find out.
Hope that helps.
JD,
Thanks, I'll contact him and get this issue resolved.
Tony
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I have been jusing Metalform and MecGar magazines which have functioned perfectly in my Dan Wesson. Where is V. Tripp located and how does one contact him? My best bet is to send it there to get it fixed once and for all.
Thanks to all for your helpfull replies.
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Pretty simple. I'm trying to get a number of people that use one. If they do would you like a drilled and tapped on? They told me they won't do it but the material is either so hard or the hardening process so extreme I have 2 now that are junk trying to drill and tap them. I use them on my .40 SS as they work like magic getting those rounds in the chamber better. Anyway if enough people want them maybe they will change their mind?
I don't mean to hijack your thread but after I installed the EGW extra high mag catch on my STI Trojan the slide would not close and I could not seat some mags with the action closed. Anyuone have any suggestions?
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Well, I finally received the extra high mag catch from EGW and installed it - now the slide will not close where there kis a magazine in the well. Also I cannot seat some mags with the action closed. I believe a semi-high mag catch might work.
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Several years ago I picked up an older S&W 586 (the blued version of the 686). Great guns which can usually be obtained for very reasonable prices.
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I have both the S&W 327PC JM version with alloy frame and titanium cylinder and the all stainless S&W 627. Both shoot well and can be used with or without mooncliops. With the mild loads being used in SC and USPSA you will find that the 327 will come back on target faster than the 627 (at least that has been my experience).
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I use the EGO grip on myh 1911's. It's a checkered polymer of some sort - perhaps rubber.
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I shot an M&P9mm Pro and liked it very much and especially the trigger job performed that had a very minimal reset. The front sight was a green fiber optic.
I recently had Inter Ocular Implants (an alternative to LASIK if they see cataracts starting)and my dominant eye is now 20/20 or better. I'm having a problem with the other eye so I can't get shooting glasses yet until it stabilizes and is "fixed" as I'll need trifocals (1- distance reading a computer screen 2- distance looking at the keyboard 3- no prescription other than a shooting one in a spot at the top when I tilt my head down a tad to shoot). I'm using 1.00 reading glasses to see the front sight now as it's a blur without them and might drop to 0.75.
I have an HK P2000 and have painted the front sight (a slightly ramped post) white after seeing a white post on my Marvel 22 conversion. So far, it seems that my best sight acquisition, from also using a Sig with 3 Trijicon front/rear, is the white ramp between slightly wider rear sights.
The Smith & Wesson M&P9L has the list price is $758.00. It seems odd to me that this is more expensive given the fiber optic sight on the Pro as I think the 9L has only a front white dot. Would anyone know why the 9L lists for $89 more?
So my question is about suggestions as to which to buy? I'm thinking the 9L as I already know I will not be using the front sight on the Pro. But if the guns are identical except for the sights, and I'm going to change them, then the less expensive 9Pro would seem to be my best bet unless I'm positive I like the sights on the 9L.
Opinions/advice/information appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Walsh
Wlash,
I had catarcats removed and have been near sightted for many years. I could not obtain a clear picture of the front sight without awkwardly tilting my head backwards. My solution was to purchase shooting glasses with rwemoveable lenses such as thiose used by shotgun shooters. I had the right lens (im a right handed shooter) optimized for seeing the front sight and the normal left lens. Now I see both the front sight and traget with absolute clarity - somehow the brain puts it together.
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I normally use Dillon case gauges in 9mm, 38 Super, 40 S&W and 45 ACP. The only exception is 9mm designed for use in my Dan Wesson PM-9 with a very tight chamber - I use the DW's barrel as a case gauge.
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I would opt for a Barsto or other manufacturers barrel in 40 S&W and not worry about bulged cases or using lead bullets.
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In my S&W 686 and 627 revolvers chambered for 38 Super the 130 gr. Rainier 0.356" provides ca 2" groups at 50 ft. At that same distance the 147 gr. Berry's 9mm 0.356" a provides less than 1 inch groups and both the Rainier 151 gr. o.356" and Montana Golf 124 gr. JHP 0.355" provide solid 1 inch groups.
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I do not use a the undersize U die. Instead I gauge my reloaded rounds.
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I have used both Bullseye and WSF with 147 gr. plated and jacketed bullets at ca 900 fps.
Red-Dot Mount needed
in Revolver Forum
Posted
I called BME usimng the number on their website when I required a custom mount for my S&W 945 with a Docter sight. They made a special unit toorder and shipped within ca 6 weeks as I remember (it has been a few years).