AustinMike

Yikes, that's a big dose of Clays!

UC looks to be real close to PP on the burn charts I've seen (hard to go by those though.) What's your favorite G22 recipe with UC? Thanks, Mike

Yup! I will check all loads in my gun, of course. My rationale in seeking out loads from other G22 shooters is that they should be more in the ballpark than a G35 or other longer barreled gun. A fair amount of smoke and it seems to contribute to more of the black coating from the Precision moly bullets getting left in the barrel. Not a problem other than taking a little longer to clean, as far as I can tell. The soot doesn't bother me. That's certainly what I'm seeing. Takes considerably less powder to get the same velocity. I'm just curious what other people are running in this gun. There may be other combinations that work well that haven't occured to me to try. I'm also wondering if anyone has played with 200gr. bullets in this gun. Mainly, I'd like to get muzzle flip under control a bit more. I'm planning to shoot Limited for the first time at a big match (Double Tap) and can use all the help I can get. I also just popped in a Wolff steel guide rod and 15# spring, but haven't had a chance to try it yet. From what I've read, this may help with some of the flip.

Clays has been pretty consistent for me. I wonder if you're on to something there, Jaime. Even with slow powders, I wonder if unburned granules can screw with the sensors up close. I remember back when Dave was trying 2400 in his open gun and my chrono was getting dusted with unburned powder (and it was probably 15 feet away!)

Question for the few that shoot or have shot a Glock 22 at major - what are your favorite loads? I haven't found a load that I can say I truly like yet and searching hasn't yielded many results, since most people shoot a Glock 35. I use a 1.135" OAL. Loads that make major for me are 4.4gr. of Titegroup with 185gr. Precision moly bullet (OK, but smokey and dirty), 5.5gr. of Power Pistol with same bullet (little more recoil than TG) and 6.2gr. of Power Pistol with 180gr. Precision Delta FMJ (stout recoil.) I tried 4.7gr. of TG with the Precision Deltas, but it doesn't make major and I don't want to push it. I think I'll probably end up staying with the moly bullets since they take considerably less powder to get up to speed. I'm considering trying 200gr. molys for comparison. I'm using a KKM barrel. I did pick up some N320 the other day to throw into the mix. I'd like to see what loads others are using lately for the Glock 22 only, please. Long loads in S_I's don't help and I've found plenty of data on the Glock 35 that doesn't make major in my gun. I understand that there will be differences between factory and aftermarket barrels. Mucho appreciated, Mike

Yeah, yeah, but how does it taste?

I still think clean brass overrated. It's just gonna get dirty again when ya shoot it. I run my range scraps through the tumbler just long enough to shake the dirt off. I've actually had people watching me load my mags ask me what the hell is wrong with my brass! Some of the stuff that has sat outside for who knows how long looks nasty. My guns don't seem to mind the diet of tarnished brass though.

Glad things are working now and I was happy to help with the troubleshooting process. I don't usually like to mess with computers outside of work, but it was nice to have a chance to help out you and Chuck since he's so generous in his support of our sport. I don't think anyone was implying that you didn't know what you were doing, Austin, or that you didn't properly research the components selected. Sometimes system builds just don't work out as well as you'd like and can be a huge drain on time and money. Certainly not trying to imply that mass manufacturing always produces a better product, but good support goes a long way. Although I know my way around systems with the best of them, I'd still rather pick up a phone (preferably not to India) and tell the manufacturer/builder that there is a problem than to waste my time. Most of the time I go through a builder who puts it together and does the burn in for me so I'm reasonably sure it works out of the box. Sounds like Sandoz is in that business too. A good system builder can be as prized as a good gunsmith in my book. Computers...they're cool when they work and make your life a living hell when they don't! Laptops...I ain't touchin' that one! All the problems of a big system crammed into a compact and more combustible package!

Can't remember the brand, but I got some bulbs that said they are supposed to be like daylight. Saw them at Lowes or Home Depot, one or the other. I put one in the kitchen and it was noticeably brighter than other bulbs I had tried at the same wattage.

I've bought several Glocks from Summit Gun Broker. He deals mostly in factory rebuilds and police trade-ins, but sells new ones for decent prices too. Rebuilds are usually around $350.

That sounded pretty darn good, but we were out of Baileys. The wife had some Starbucks Cream Liqueur and it's downright tasty in my cocoa. Mmmm.... It's helping me cope with the ice storm going on outside.

Rob Leatham explains the heavy bullet / fast powder thing If what you listed are the only choices, I'd probably choose Titegroup. For less than $15 most places you can buy a can of Clays though.

Gotta wonder what Kool-aid does to your insides if it cleans the tarnish off brass. Many years ago, I worked in a paint factory. I stopped drinking Kool-aid after noting that the Kool-aid label read like a paint label! We had to wear respirators when dumping titanium dioxide into the paint tanks. Apparently it's OK to drink the sh!t?

Awesome! Hopefully that's the only problem and you can get it swapped out. At least the problem was readily apparent. It's the "silent" ones that are scarier to me. I've seen a number of top selling components that trash data when subjected to rudimentary data integrity tests! I don't think there's any problem at all with the MB, Chuck. I would stay with an Intel board myself (some of 'em anyway.) Granted, I work primarily with server class systems, but everybody's got bugs here and there and I generally see Intel taking more interest in fixing problems than other vendors. Sadly, ever decreasing time to market leads to shortened test cycles though! Ship it now, fix it later.

I can't honestly say that I'd recommend any one mass manufacturer exclusively. I've bought Dells before (worked there for 3 years in server and storage development as well), but that was based on system specifications. Being in the test business, I usually have a good feel for the hardware they are tossing in the case. I've had issues on some systems, none on others. I can say that I have gotten Dell support to address the problems when I've encountered them. Not a commercial for them, just my experience since you asked - no brand loyalty here. My current systems are put together by a builder out in CA, who has done me right on building to my specifications. He does a burn-in check before shipping. PM me if you'd like contact info. When I get a new system from anyone, I also wipe it clean, install the OS fresh myself, and run a few test programs that beat the crap out of it for a few days. I know a lot of folks, myself included, who try doing their own builds out of frustration with the brand name systems on the market. My point was that it's not always that easy. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn't. When it doesn't, well, you built it, so you're your own support. Unless you know for a fact that the components you selected interoperate together, you could build an incompatiblity nightmare. Believe me, I see popular top brand components that work OK on their own cause a system to puke in certain combinations with other hardware. Hopefully in your case, this is as simple as a flakey DIMM that you can hopefully exchange. Good luck!

Ouch. Not fun. The page fault error is so ambiguous. In a nutshell, the Windows memory manager encountered an error resolving a page fault (i.e. a virtual memory address could not be resolved to a physical page of memory.) Unfortunately, this could be a hardware or a software bug, so it doesn't narrow things down for you. The address could have been hosed by bad memory, either DIMM or processor L2 cache. It could have been a software bug, accessing an invalid address. If the error is repeatable all you can do is to change one and only one variable at a time, within your control. Hardware: Will it happen with only one DIMM? Does it happen with both DIMMs (one bad, other OK?) Remove unnecessary harware, one at a time (disable in BIOS or remove drivers for hardwired stuff.) If system has embedded video, run off of that instead of video card. Slowly and methodically, work your way down to a stable configuration. This may identify a hardware culprit. Software: Same thing. Remove things one by one. You're really only concerned with things that load drivers at startup (ex. anti-virus, peripheral drivers and utilities.) Do a bunch of reboots after changing things to see if you get a BSOD. You can automate that part at least (open a command window on XP and type "shutdown /?" for info on Windows shutdown and reboot - make a batch file and stick it in your startup folder.) There is no easy solution, unless you happen to hit upon a likely suspect early in the trouble shooting. Things like this is why I don't build systems from parts anymore. Much better to have a trusted builder or manufacturer with known compatible hardware options who will support you and let them spend their time resolving such problems should any arise. Kinda like building a gun, in a way. You can grab a box of "drop-in" parts from reputable vendors, but that doesn't mean you'll come out with a flawless 1911. I feel your pain, I hate computer problems!

This entire morning I have not been able to get the computer to go to a bsod or restart. As soon as it does i am going to record the error, analyze the kernal dump file then try swapping memory out with my computer that runs flawless. Should I switch the memory out completely or try the other slots on the mobo? To isolate a bad DIMM, you can run only one, then the other. Or a complete swap-out might be necessary if you can only get the problem with both. Not to say that memory is a problem, but I recently helped a customer who was getting mysterious panics and other weird behavior on a system. The problem followed the memory to another system that was working fine when I swapped them out.

I had a similar experience with my chrono recently. Very obvious errant readings based on my previous readings with these loads. I decided it was probably just the angle of the sun that day, but there was some uncertainty because I was shooting with a bit of a chill in the air. The next weekend we had an overcast day and I ran out to recheck. The readings were what I expected them to be. I usually put a no-shoot over the sensors to keep direct sun off, but this time of the year the sun comes in at an angle. I'm considering building a chrono box for a more controlled environment.

I haven't tried Zero's yet, but Precision Delta jacketed only gets about 163 PF with 4.7 of Titegroup in my G22 and I don't really want to push it any higher with that powder. Precision coated bullets get around 168 PF with 4.4 of Titegroup. The barrel gets a little gunked up though, so I'm going to try N320, in case it's just due to the heat of Titegroup.

That's what I'm wrestling with. With jacketed bullets, it's tough to make major with the common Titegroup loads I've seen posted out here. Coated bullets will do it a lot easier. I just picked up a bottle of N320 to see if I can work up a softer shooting load that makes major by a comfortable margin. I've got a KKM barrel that seems to run a tad slower than the stock for me. I went with the G22 because it was a cheap way for me to start playing in Limited (factory refurb gun I bought for like $365 with 3 mags.) I'm wondering if I should have held out for a G35, but I do like the overall feel of the G22 in my hands.

Interesting. Try the DIMM swapping, if you can.

When Windows KB's in the kernel, you should get a memory.dmp file in the windows root folder. You can download windbg from Microsoft, which can be used to open dmp files. Setup directions are in the getting started section on their site. Basically, set up for connection to the symbol server as they describe, open the memory.dmp file, and type !analyze in the command box. You may get some useful info like the name of the faulting driver.

None of the things you have are necessarily junk, Chuck/Austin. Compatibility can be a difficult game though. Building a system from various parts just doesn't work sometimes, even when you buy top of the line from each vendor. Nothing guarantees that they will work together. Companies that sell complete systems or small builders will test that the complete systems they sell do not have compatibility issues (well, that's the theory anyway.) Where I work, we do some compatibility testing for the big companies from time to time and it is VERY common to see top brand peripherals that get rave reviews not work when combined with certain boards or other peripherals. Frustrating as hell for the consumer, to be sure. Doesn't mean that the product is crap, it just means that there is no way they can possibly test for the infinite number of combinations that the product might be deployed. The new blue screen error is also driver related. It may be tricky to figure out which one. I forget what all you've added, but try to strip the system down to the bare motherboard. Remove everything possible, one by one, and see when the problem goes away (hopefully it does!) Then you have your culprit. I trust you have applied the latest downloadable drivers and firmware for any add-ins. I suspect the problem is related to a driver, but memory can also cause strange anomalies. You might swap memory with another system, if that is an option, or if you have more than one DIMM, remove one, run for a while, see if the error occurs, run with the other, etc.

Make sure you run the latest chipset INF package for that board. You should be able to find it on Intel's download site by looking up the board model. That may get rid of unexplained bangs in the Device Manager.

Other random thoughts that come to mind...not sure what the board supports, but in BIOS try disabling ACPI and if there is an enhanced SATA mode enabled, try setting to Legacy.