Austin111

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Bayougump, I tried with 1/16th from an old set and had the punch stuck in there for about 10 minutes as I decided how I was going to explain to my wife that the Tanfoglio comes with a pin punch built right into it !! When I finally pried it out with pliers and the "jaws of death", I bought this set of punches. They are very strong BUT, the sleeves that are on them are useless and need to be removed. This is not an advertisement...just a set that has a strong 1/32 punch...... Rennsteig Parallel Pin Punches with Sleeve (Pin Remover Tools) - 8 Piece Set.

selecw, We must be at the same progression path in the Tanfoglio World. Just last week I called EAA and asked to purchase additional screws form my GT racker when I discovered I only had one, securing it in place. Unfortunately, they haven't gotten back to me yet on availability. The single hex screw I have was loose which led me to believe the other one fell out. Now I am not too sure. Since then I have tightened, saturated every screw with either purple, blue or red loctite. I also put a drop of Rocksett adhesive on the bottom of the racker to form a ceramic industrial bond between the slide and racker. (warning: Rocksett if bonded correctly will create a permanent seal that can only be broken down by submerging in water for 24+ hours....not really an option for a slide and racker situation). Since my mount is left side only, my racker may never need to be removed. "Theory versus Reality" ---->> I used Rocksett on a barrel and compensator and in real-life use, it unbonded on its own, due to extensive heat. BTW Eric sent me the screws for my mount. Still short on the "mount to frame" (Hopefully blue loctite), but the "C-More to Mount" screws appear to secure firmly (drenched in purple loctite). I am letting it all cure before taking it to the range. Hoping I have a final solution. If I hear back from EAA, I'll update you.

kneelingatlas, 99.9% of what I did was based on you posts and detailed photos !!! So thanks ! I'll eventually change out the trigger, sear and hammer, but for now I have to become "one with the gun" !!!

Some additional documentation that may augment the Forum postings. I did it for my own recollection. I have a GT V12 so it may be slightly different in other Tanfoglios. Proceed at your own risk, seek advice from a professional gunsmith (not my Bag Man) always test the modified gun via dry fire, pull/push hammer with safety on/off, live fire single round a few times before full action (and all other NRA Safety Rules).. · Belly of the beast Gap Analysis · Needle Nose pliers · Curved Needle Nose pliers · 1/32 Pin Punch ambi safety (larger for other pins) · Right side ambi safety is a bear to remove after pin is pushed below hole, don’t assume Hennings video is accurate portrayal. · Sear Spring re-positioning is easy to forget. Keep a Post -It to remind you to restore to original position. · Left side ambi-safety on Gold Team has a detent, spring and if it dislodges it is a bear to get back in. Handle with care. · Hammer Pin-Pin is a vertical pin on left side of frame that holds the hammer pin in. Since Hammer Pin is larger on left side it can’t slip out of the right side of the frame so the Pin-Pin is there to keep it from slipping out the left side of frame. Put a thin flat screwdriver below the Hammer Pin-Pin and elevate it so the Hammer Pin can be punched through from right to left. · Sear Housing removal is easy, restoring requires significant playing with it. Before you remove it, study its position, take a photo of the placement, height etc. You will still need to ensure the trigger bar, sear and hammer are positioned correctly (takes experience, me? Trial and error), but a photo may help. · The hammer and hammer spring may jump out after removing Hammer Pin, so cup it on top or do this work inside a large plastic bag (take deep breaths before walking into the large plastic bag). · Removing the trigger pin is straight forward, I went from right side of frame to left and kept the pin partially in the frame. Trigger has a coil spring that wants to jump, so cup your hand on top or walk back inside the giant plastic bag. Make a mental note of the position of the trigger spring, long leg straight out, small leg right side place down and in the trigger housing. Obvious, until you released you didn’t observe this before removal. · Removing trigger and trigger bar, photo the relationship of the trigger to the external trigger guard before removal because restoring it requires finesse. · Trigger bar plunger removal by pressing in both sides of the mag release. Photo to recall position of the Trigger bar plunger when reassembly. Take a pin punch on right side of Mag release to push internal plunger just enough to the left to free the Trigger Bar Plunger Stem. Pull trigger bar plunger up with curved needle nose pliers. IF you remove the mag release, don’t tilt it to the right or risk losing the spring and plunger. · Replacing the Trigger Plunger Spring…after removal, press down on the Trigger Bar Plunger (top) with index finger and thumb about a ¼ inch to expose a horizontal pin, use small pin punch to push it. Remove Plunger top, replace spring if desired. Reverse process.

While waiting for some parts from France...I just couldn't leave my Tanfoglio alone. Decided today to replace the Hammer Spring and the Trigger Bar Spring. While I was in there, I decided to polish the trigger bar, trigger bar plunger and sides of Hammer. It was an interesting journey, the biggest challenge was when the Ambi-Safety Detent Plunger decided to jettison across the room. I never dissected anything this early in a relationship, except f or that frog in biology 101. The V12 came out much better than Old Croakie. The trigger is now super smooth and super light...... Now I just need my permanent mount. Thanks to everyone on this site that posted and archived their knowledge and to Henning for his videos. Schematic I used as a map, may not be 100% accurate...so proceed with caution, but it should shed some color-coded light on your location within the firearm.

Dave, Made it to the outdoor range last evening with just enough time to measure the Atlanta Arms Ammo 125gr in my V12 38 Super GT (with V12 Barrel). before the crowds took over the rifle range. 1318 1321 1320 1411 outlier removed from calculation. 1321 1324 1319 Just makes Major PF @ 165,062 I didn't bother clocking the PP or Geco when the AAA barely made it. I'll use the AAA up at a local match. AAA was the most accurate of the three (AAA, GECO and PP). It has a harsh kick to it (as does the GECO). Muzzle rise was disturbingly apparent in all three. PP was softest, but the least accurate and too long OAL, failure to chamber multiple times. I ran 100 rnds of AAA, 50 GECO and 50 PP. Again, only the velocity was quantitative, the others...my personal observations. Total rounds in my V12 now: 600. I love the gun, continue having problems keeping the single sided mount in place. Until I get the mount resolved, I have no confidence shooting this in competition, will revert to my GlockNStein this weekend. $2,000+ and I am pulling out a Glock. Haven't lost my enthusiasm for the V12, just limited amount of time to debug and wait for missing parts from France.

BowenBuilt, They are Buckeye Burl (Aesculus californica).

I liked the look of my Wilson Combat Tactical SuperGrade, but wanted to dress it up for Special Occasions like IDPA Competitions, Target Shooting, Plinking etc... I found an artist, a craftsman and an all around nice guy to deal with who magically created grips from a block of wood !! "Abra-abra-cadabra......I want to reach out and grab ya..." Steve Miller Band SuperGrade By Wilson Combat SuperGrips By Penguin's Grips

Dave, I have a V12 GT (now with interim optics) and have fired 200 rounds of GECO 38 Super to break it in. I have AAA 38 Super Major PF I bought back in May before I found a supply of 3n38 and plan on running the AAA thru my Chrono (Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph) next week. I'll also chron the Geco, Prvi Partizan 38 Super +P I have in my stash. There is a guy in Connecticut, http://jjrammo.com/that will formulate a load for your specific need. He takes your requirement and then supplies a few step-up batches until your goals are met. A number of guys in the area USPSA use his product. His website only keeps a few "standard" loads up to date, you will need to discuss directly with him. He is very busy, so reach out when you have finalized your platform.

BeerBaron, Thanks for the additional info. I'll check it out. The ambi pin is like a "No Trespassing Sign" !! I managed to get past it, but I had to sacrifice my thumb in the process. Step 1 in gaining that all important attribute...."experience".

BeerBaron, Thanks for trying. When I discovered that I had to enlarge the mounting holes in the C-More to accommodate the "sleeves" on "E's" Upright mount I began looking for a PlanB and PlanC. The Cheely Horizontal would be a perfect PlanB (probably should have been my PlanA), but the IPSC Alex will be a fine Plan C and provide a platform for some eyes on the V12. I'll also put a WTB Cheely on the Classified Forum and wait for one to surface. In the meantime, I took the upright mount (weaver base, stainless steel) off my Tanfgolio Gold Airsoft and mounted on my V12. I put a C-More Railway on it and except for lacking a blast should, should allow me some range time with a red-dot this time. The lens may get dirty, but I'll use factory ammo (minor PF) while I finalize my platform and bring PlanC to fruition. I have come to realize that mastering the Tanfoglio Platform comes only with time and experience, and those of you who posses it are of great value to those of us that don't. One day, after trial/error and battle scars from trying to tap the pin on the ambi safety, perhaps I can help new comers. Cheers, Austin

selecw. I just reached out to IPSC ALEX. Here is the exchange: I have a Tanfoglio Gold Team V12 and a C-More Slide Ride and b=need a mount. 1) Does the IPSC Alex mount to my frame without modifications? 2) Does the C-More Slide Ride mount to the IPSC Alex without modifications? 3) Do you supply the proper screws to secure the C-More to the mount and the Alex to the frame? Thanks Austin A Hello Austin! 1) no modification needed 2) no modification needed 3) all hardware supplied. Thank you for your interest in our products. Regards, Alex.

BeerBaron. If you happen to find 2 Cheely Scopes (original for selecw, 2nd for me) I would be interested as well. I can't get the Slide-Ride to sit on a mount I bought from E and the supplied C-More mounting screws don't fit either. I don't want to modify the C-More unnecessarily if I can avoid it with my current mount, so the Cheely may be a good solution. I contacted Matt at Cheely but he doesn't make Tanfoglio Mounts unless a group order comes in.

selecw, Your mount looks great...keep us updated on how it performs.

First day with my long awaited V12 which took 1 minute to buy and 111 days for my NJ permits to process (Gov Christie, No way are Free States voting for you). The V12 session was short and sweet since I did not mount my C-More until I was certain the low profile mount would not interfere. Turns out no problemo. Safety is important to me so I used my outdoor range with a massive berm, reserved it for my personal use and had already dry fired the V12 with 9mm LaserLyte bullets and established elevation and lateral coordinates with points on the mount. Was I certain of "A Zone" hits, no....but hitting paper....YES. The V12, still mostly factory with the exception of Henning guide rod, buffer, recoil spring, firing pin and firing pin spring (will do the hammer spring, plunger spring and polish soon). Experience: Excellente', Great Gun. Can't wait to mount the C-More. Can't wait to shoot more. (I had an STI DVC Open on order and cancelled it and I don't regret it) I was using the V12 Barrel with some inexpensive GECO® .38 Super Auto 124 Grain FMJ 1,290 F.P.S. muzzle velocity (non-v12 MV). Will load 3n38 and chron it. I felt a slight muzzle rise, but the splits felt substantially better than the Glock-N-Stein. I am anticipating a tamer ride with the 3n38. Here is a short video of the V12 on Day 1, Shot 1. Room for improvement on my part, but the gun is ready. https://www.dropbox.com/s/xpyvhyxvgcvz97v/V12%201st%20Video.mp4?dl=0 Here is the Glock-N-Stein for those with great vision to measure the difference in muzzle rise. Glock has Carver Customs Comp, Zev Trigger and Firing Pin, reduced Recoil and FP Spring, EGW Glock Doctor Slide Mount, FastFire III, Lone Wolf Supported Threaded barrel, SJC Gen4 Heavy magwell, Taran Tactical Weighted Mag Bases https://www.dropbox.com/s/q4a4dztj25mu8ay/GlockAppaloosa.mp4?dl=0

selecw, Thanks for the update. I went to the range yesterday and fired my V12 for the 1st time with factory ammo and no sights. Outdoor range has a huge berm to intercept projectiles. I had also used LaserLyte 9mm Laser bullets in the V12 for practice and had already established that I could use the "sleeves" on the mount as my lateral point of aim and the dust shield as my vertical point of aim. All shots hit paper, but I certainly wouldn't recommend competing with this primitive technique. My experience with a TANFOGLIO......iiiiiiIIIIITTTTT's gggGG_GREAT ! The V12 is still mostly factory with a Henning guide rod, lighter recoil spring, buffer, Henning Firing Pin and lighter firing pin spring. I'll lighten the hammer spring and plunger spring in the next week or so and polish a few parts. A new Trigger, sear and hammer for Christmas and I'll be ready for the 2016 circuit. But if I had to run it as is.....I would be perfectly happy(with a red-dot of course). 50 rounds and no failures (cheapo-> GECO® .38 Super Auto 124 Grain FMJ Ammo 1,290 F.P.S. muzzle velocity. 545 ft. lbs. muzzle energy). Certainly not MAJOR PF, but still a pretty hot round. I'll be loading 3n38 since I picked up 6lbs at Midsouth the other day). I wanted to make sure that ejections weren't hindered by the low profile mount and it worked perfectly. I had my Glock-N-Stein 40sw with me as a comparison and it was harsh like a bronco. Wonder why I even showed up at competitions, let alone Open Division. I plan on using the Glock to practice strong-hand only, weak-hand only. If I can stay in the "A", "C" zone with a one handed Glock, I should be acceptable with the V12. Thanks for your input, I'll use Blue Loctite for the frame mount and the red dot mount as a cautionary measure and I'll keep you posted.

Selecw, Thanks for the timely post, just picked up my V12 Gold on Aug 28 and was ready to mount the C-More on the vertical mount (with "sleeves"). I will be be very cautious when I tighten and use a liberal amount of red loctitie. In the event that I have the same experience....how did you get the "sleeves" off the red-loctite screws without damaging the C-More ? I don't want to sacrifice a $300 C-More !! Mine is not aluminum so I can't apply heat to melt the loctitie.

Hellscomin, Thanks for the heads up.....picked some up myself in the 1 lb pack.

BallisticianX, Sorry to hear about your experience with this platform. I am just getting into The Gold Team 38 Super and have been reading your detailed posts on reloading and am impressed with your knowledge. I have an inclination that you are going to have that "Ah Hah" moment and solve this challenge. There are a number of experienced and knowledgeable Tanfo folks on this site (hoping one day I'll be sharing some wisdom) that can assist. Hoping it all works out !!

BallisticianX.Thanks for the detail info on your loads. Looking forward to hearing the comparison (rise) at 170PF .

Perhaps this is the reason Hennings products aren't reaching the customer...... 1st Class Mail and it is orbiting Colorado for 5 days....Rocky Mountain High !!!

BeerBaron, 38 Super. I bought the single side mount from Eric, C-More from C-More and some upgrades from Henning. I am totally jazzed. I am just hoping I get to pick it up before Sunday (USPSA). I know I am always crying about the NJ Permit process, but it gets more difficult when you have a gun like this just sitting at an FFL and 3+ Months have passed waiting for approval. Anyway....at some point I'll be allowed to take possession and then "let the fun begin".

Well you wore out your welcome with random precision, rode on the steel breeze. Come on you raver, you seer of visions, come on you painter, you piper, you prisoner, and shine! Pink Floyd Arrived in New Jersey.....Next stop ----> USPSA

It all comes down to physics. Recoil management is enhanced with a heavier gun. I love the Glock 23 I modified into an Open Gun. It has a ZEV Trigger (2.25lbs), Zev Firing Pin, Polished ignition, reduced springs, Carver Compensator, heavy magwell, FFIII redot, slide racker, lone wolf fully support chamber. What it doesn't have is ----> weight. So I as a competitive shooter, have to add that dimension into the mix while acquiring a sight picture in real time. For every day target practicing, its nominal. But in competition,the lack of weight is a disadvantage. So I have a Tanfoglio Witness Elite Gold Team in 38 Super as my primary open. I will still use the Glock-N-Stein because I created it, but I know that "weight" reduces the "wait" for splits and transitions. Here is the result of a theoretical recoil calculator....My example uses a 40sw (my Glock)1.47lbs unloaded vs a 2.56 lbs Tanfoglio Gold Team 40 sw. using VV 3n37. Theoretical = Practical ??? It sure feels accurate !!!! (Disclosure My Tanfoglio is 38 Super with velocity of 1224 and 6.9gr of 3n37 producing 5.6 ft•lbs).