Austin111

I had a similar issue on my Tanfo V12. My first attempt was using Loctite 620 (Green), still came loose. Then I re-prepped and applied "Rockset" rather than Loctite and it is functioning fine.. I am sure you aligned the sleeve holes with the barrel holes perfectly and ensured that the barrel/comp length (number of turns) allows FOR proper lockup. I included a pic of the Tanfo comp, sleeve, barrel for anyone else curious of the Tanfo platform. Good Shooting....

Dirtchevy841, Thumb-rest (probably should be called "Support-Hand Leverage Device" since the thumb is doing everything except "resting"). With my reloads, (softer shooting rounds) the muzzle rise is insignificant. With the freedom munitions, it kicks... The SVI is addictive and my favorite to bring to the range so hand-loading 800 rounds a week is too time consuming, so I have to resort to factory ammo. I felt I had difficulty driving the SVI down out of the rise with my support hand without that point of contact. Grip tape on the frame may have solved it, but it gets tattered and torn. The SVI trigger allows for a gentle, precision break so transferring the management of vertical and lateral movement to my support hand feels proper and thus..the thumb-rest. Please configure your Infinity the way you and Brandon discussed. He is the expert.

The target was 11 yards at an indoor range with fair to poor lighting on 8/12/2017 using my 40sw sight tracker. I was practicing muzzle rise/trigger break drills where, with the exception of the 1st shot from each mag reload, the trigger was squeezed while muzzle in motion. Again this was an indoor range, so splits were NOT sub .20 seconds, but cadence was rhythmic. I am a C-More red-dot guy, so any iron/fiber is a challenge. The Sight Tracker is perfect (I am not). I was using Freedom Munitions 180gr factory which is a bit snappy. The sight tracker overall weight compensates for 40sw kick and the lighter slide creates less mass on the upper movement which helps. Having the fiber in a predicable spot provides some of the predictability of a red-dot. Using lower power hand-loads is a sweeter experience, but with 40sw at $10/bx, I can't justify reloading for plinking. Three suggestions, if I could turn back time...1) get a thumb-rest for your support hand 2) get double undercut/checkered under trigger 3) widen the distance between the 2 fiber front sight posts to let more light hit the fiber. I did all 3 after market. PS I love this Infinity Sight Tracker so much that when Brandon/Tiffany posted an available IMM Open on Facebook last week I bought it. I will store it (IMM) in the safe until my old-eyes stop picking up the glow of fiber and need to revert back to e-optics. Good luck.....

Dirtchevy841 It took 15.25 months (2 hours and 22 seconds) but was culminating right about the time of December holiday season. It is a busy time in any industry and I'm sure they were working at 150% to get the December deliveries sent out before the holidays. I was fine with that considering transporting via UPS and receiving at my FFL during that hectic time would have added additional uncertainties. I chose the Signature Grip (Carbon) with MicroPockets (IMP) Mobius Cutouts. Secure feel even during strong-hand only or support-hand only stages,

Dirtchevy841 I received my 1st Infinity about 8 weeks ago and it is definitely worth the anxiety and anticipation. I have been following this thread as my Limited was in progress and never commented; afraid on getting into and adding to the frenzy. I had the added issue of trying to "time" my NJ Handgun Purchase Permits (which expire in 90 days) with the birth of my Infinity. In the end (and throughout), Brandon, Tiffany and Casey made it all happen without a hitch. Prior to this Infinity, my prize handgun was (still own it, just dethroned) a Wilson Combat Tactical SuperGrade. The Infinity outperforms on every level. The pièce de ré·sis·tance is THE GRIP. It is like having it glued in my hand, doesn't move vertically or laterally. Just point and shoot. I hope my experience allows you to keep your sanity as you enter into the final phase of production. You will love it !!

Here is my setup (38 Super platform) using Eric's C-More Upright mount. It looks like EAA sells the same mount now. I'm zero'd at 18 yrds (C-More is 6MOA). Elevation and Windage have sufficient adjustment room and "the mount" sits low. The upright C-More adds all the height. Sitting at 1.993 inch (center of lens to center of barrel). The C-More is placed on two vertical posts integrated on the mount which adds stability and alignment (see below for an issue). It's a one sided mount, which I prefer so the slide racker stays on while the slide is removed. I also installed a DAA thumb rest in frame holes 2 & 4 (with longer screws). Even though the mount kisses the ejection port, I have had no problems with ejection using 38 Super or 38 Super Comp (Atlanta Arms (JHP Major), ArmsCor, GECO, (new and reloads of each) as well as hand loaded brass from Starline 38 Super+ (new and reloaded) 175k PF chron'd at muzzle +7 feet). It does travel quite a distance when ejected. Overall, even with it's higher profile it provides a dependable POA/POI in USPSA, 3Gun and Steel Knockdown. That was the good news.... to get to this stage was a challenge: 1) no screws were supplied initially from Eric (he quickly remedied that, sent 6: 2 for mounting C-More to mount, 4 to mount to frame) 2) the mounting posts on the mount have a larger diameter than the C-More, so I had to ream the plastic C-More holes a bit. I checked with C-More first and if I reamed too much, they would rebuild a new Optic out of my parts for around $60. Never needed this service, but nice to know. 3) ALL SCREWS backing out.....My fault. I discovered that all surfaces need to be prepped with 100% acetone. So a trip to Walmart and $0.99, I aceton'd the screws, the mount threads, let it evaporate and applied blue loctitie to the screw threads, threaded once to get the loctite in the mount threads, applied additional blue loctite and re-threaded. That was 4,000 rounds ago and I'm still zeroed at 20 yards. Is Matt's horizontal a better solution? probably can shave 0,67 inches off the height.....but he wasn't making them at the time.

Took advantage of the favorable exchange rate with the Euro and picked up a set of Eric's grips. They fit tight and feel great in my hand. The factory grips were a bit awkward to position correctly.

Cakedog02, My reset problem was resolved with a .018 trigger return spring and the filing of the head of the pre-travel screw. It was clear that I didn't have enough space (Tanfoglio V12 Platform) when I installed the Henning trigger. I took all the pre-travel out of it and I would still have occasional failure to reset. I could use my trigger finger, place it behind the trigger, push it forward and then a positive reset. I spoke to Henning and we discussed filing the sear, purchasing EGW sear/hammer or removing the pre-travel screw altogether. I'm a software engineer turned derivative trader and my years at debugging software convinced me to keep the variables to a minimum and forgo the sear options until I resolved the reset issue. After installing the .018 spring, I removed the pre-travel screw, re-installed the trigger and the reset issue disappeared. New problem surfaced....the pre-travel was now as long as the original factory trigger $124.95 ago (ouch). I wanted to keep the flat trigger AND I wanted to limit the pre-travel, so I took the pre-travel screw, got out a flat 10x2 inch flat metal file and began the process of removing mass from the flat head of the Henning Pre-Travel screw. I did 2 passes at a time and reinstalled the pre-travel screw (all the way) and re-installed the trigger and tested (also tested the Safety each time). I'm not certain if it was 2 times or 3 times before there was enough material removed to give me enough clearance (with the help of the .018 trigger return spring) to achieve a consistent positive reset. After dry-fire testing proved successful, went to the range for live-fire confirmation. All systems go, I used red loctite to keep the pre-travel screw in place. Keep in mind, if you take off too much material you will continue to increase pre-travel with no recourse to limit it, except for purchasing an additional pre-travel screw from Henning $11.95. I have over 1000 rounds with this set-up and no failure to reset. My issue may not be the same issues you are experiencing, so I recommend you reach out to Henning and get his input to help you resolve this. Also check out BeerBaron's response above, looks like he resolved it with swapping 2 springs and no filing. Good Luck!! ** Caution ** This is an extremely accommodating trigger setup and IMO should only used for competition/range. Always test your Safety before each event.

I've had my Henning Flat trigger for about 6 weeks and 1,000+ rounds. I like it, far better than the factory. I have never had a failure to ignite* and have been using handloads w 3n38, Atlanta Arms Major 38 Super, GECO 38 Super and ArmsCor 38 Super Military Surplus. I initially had a reset issue* but with the help of Henning by phone, it was resolved. I am using the factory sear, factory hammer with no modifications. I am using Henning FP, Guide Rod, Buffer and polished the plunger and trigger bar. I lube the slide with Wilson Combat Ultima-Lube II and apply Weapon Shield grease (sparingly) on the lugs. I am not a gunsmith, so having Henning available to discuss the relationship between trigger, sear, safety and hammer and the available alternatives for successful integration.....was IMO worth the price. I left some pre-travel in the system to allow me prep the trigger during acquisition. With these mods, it is my favorite handgun. http://screencast-o-matic.com/u/SdF/Austin111Super38GoldCustom

Enjoying the Gold Bead....easy to pick up outdoors and indoors at the range.

BeerBaron, RangerTrace, Everyone.... Thanks for the input. BeerBaron, I never took your post as an insult. You have always helped me on the Tanfoglio side and you are absolutely correct.... I never fully dis-assembled a 1911. I did watch the Wilson Combat video on dis-assembly before my "newbie" post, but when he removed the firing pin, I "zoned out" just when he said "extractor" since I thought it was way too soon for me to worry about replacing/adjusting the extractor. I just wanted to know how to lube it and buffer the guide rod. You know I'm in an accelerated mode to build a gun collection ASAP before my Republican NJ Governor is replaced by the leading Democrat and his anti-gun campaign. In rushing, I don't have time to master any of them I have a SW 460 XVR for over one year that I haven't even fired once. Conclusion: No excuse for my naivety with this post, but in the end....the Forum was kinder to me than I initially expected !!! Cheers all. I think I'll hide out in the SIG Forum until this blows over

BeerBaron, Absolutely no comeback on my part.....But It is a sweet gun !!! I have thick skin....I'll suck it up and push forward.....that's what I do !!

EdwardBlake, I didn't notice it when it was new, did my first detailed cleaning recently before the new grips went on. So perhaps build up settled in the imprint after cleaning solution. When I order the gun, I chose the checkering for aesthetics, and the example Wilson had on the Tactical SG page was a rear view of a checkered slide but it was "Blued" rather than SS. Thanks for the input/

I thought the checkering would hide it.... mine is cosmetically more obvious than others.

I just noticed this imprinted circle on my Wilson Combat rear checkering after enlarging photo. Is it common? Is there a purpose?