cwall64

I am going to test the suggested 1.142", and if it works in the chambers I am good with that length. I just had not seen that length in anything but the VV manual, and was curious.

Thanks, after rereading my question I rambled a little!!! Funny thing is I looked back at the Hornady #9 and they only list N350 as a tested VV powder for 9mm 124 grain bullet. They used the shorter COL (1.050" for the FMJ-FP) and less charge than VV #14 on N350 - that was my main concern - if I went down in COL I did not want to be too hot with minimum charge...

Finally got some N320 and looking at the Vihta Vuori #14 PDF seems as though they recommend a longer COL (1.142") than I have been using for BE-86 (1.12") or Hornady #9 (1.05"). I realize that SAAMI is 1.169" max, but with the 0.4 grain min to max spread (3.9 - 4.3 grains) should I actually start a little lower that 3.9 for the workup, since the bullet is different than the one I am using? I'll be using these in a H&K USP 9 or a VP9.

For 9mm, 40 S&W, & 10mm either Redding or Dillon de-capping die, Redding Micrometer seating die, & Redding Micrometer crimping die. For 45 ACP Redding Pro die set. Why, I really like the fine tune adjustment on the Redding Micrometer dies... I never had any issues with the Dillon dies, they make great rounds.

Same here, have a monthly budget and order something every month - since powder was available this month in good supply I only bought powder. Hopefully primers will be available next month and I'll load up. Then back to bullets...

I don't know if it is common for Reloading Unlimited or not, but their delivery of powder is kind of slow due to only being able to ship 200 lbs / day (I asked as order stayed in pending state for a long time). I placed an order on the 8th and scheduled delivery is today (24th). Not complaining, they had the powders I wanted - just informing...

Lucky you! Mine follows me into the man cave and tells me we should clean it up, then continually ask me where everything goes as I am trying to reload! She tries to "organize" the room for me, but really just hides it all where I can't find anything...

Good to know, unfortunately the primer pickup tubes that are giving me the issues are the spare 4 pack, not the one that came with the press and they are brand new. I have only tried 2 out of the 4, but will try the other 2 and also try changing the end piece (although primers seem to get stuck in the middle of tube not at end). Anyway, only using one pickup tube does give me a nice break every 100 rounds!

This is true and have been in that situation a couple of times. Also do what the previous post states, wear eye protection. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk I have done this several times, might not be the "best or "safest", but works well. As mentioned go slow. And I even reuse the primer as long as the anvil stays in it! They have all worked so far...

Actually the one that they stick in the worst, it is still stuck in the middle of the tube. I tried pushing out with the primer alarm rod, but I was afraid that I was going to break it. The others I do not know, but would be a good test to exchange the end and see if they function better!

On another forum I have been told that the LAX headstamp is Starline brass with a custom headstamp. Brass looked good after the initial running of 100, I'll clean and see how the primer pockets look.

I do not know about the temperature sensitivity, but I have been very happy with BE-86 in 10mm and 40 S&W. I still need to test with 9mm. Accuracy and SD numbers have been good.

Worked perfect today with new battery. Unfortunately the conditions were perfect for the chrono though - 9 AM and partially cloudy, not a completely sunny day like last weekend! So, maybe not the best test...

I am thinking the upside down primer is more a function of the pickup tube in my case, in this instance I had one occurrence out of ten that the primers got hung up in the pickup tube (when I pulled the pin) and did not fall immediately into the priming system - I could be wrong... But in the past I have been able to associate upside down primers to that occurrence by checking the 100 rounds of ammo made after I had it happen. I am using Federal 150 match primers and maybe one of them was out of spec and cause the binding in the pickup tube??? Good idea on stabilizing the case feeder, unfortunately I do not have anything to brace it to today, but I could certainly add a cabinet or shelf and try later! I do take a break every time I reload the priming system, at least a few minutes - and I do not prepare 5 tubes at a time, just one right now as some of my tubes seem too tight for my primers and it just creates a mess if I try to use them, I probably should call and ask Dillon if they could be out of spec as I had one get a primer stuck so bad that I just set it to the side. So, the original one that came with the press is the only one I use now.

LAX has used Freedom Munitions (Ammoload) for their brass so make sure it doesn't have one of their headstamps (I believe they had an "IMT" headstamp if they came from Freedom Munitions). Headstamp on these is "LAX", but I'll shoot some tomorrow and see if they have the step inside and throw them out if they do...

Planning on it when I head out in the morning. I was just wondering other experiences, if it was missed shots, erratic values, etc when battery is not up to snuff. Heck, I've never looked at the units screen, I alway hook up to PC - it would be funny if it has a battery level indicator!

Anybody have any experience with LAX Ammo brass? I bought 1,000 of there 115 grain ammo when it was on sale last year and forgot all about it in the back of my closet, just found it and wondered if I should try and reload it after I shoot it... I am wondering if it is Starline with the LAX headstamp or something else. I know that Starline makes Underwood and some other smaller brands brass for them.

Well, I had been a little frustrated with the XL650 and put the cover on it for over a month after struggling through making 3,000 rounds of 10mm and started using the Redding T-7 again for my 9mm and 40 S&W loads. So, I ordered a caliber conversion for 9mm and decided today I would have to run some more 10mm before swapping out. I took the cover off and thought about it for an hour or so, then told myself just do it! I ran 1,000 10mm and except for one upside down primer and two shells dropping upside down from the case feeder it ran smooth as silk! Glad I tried it again...

Bullets were 9mm Hornady 147 XTPs. I imagine I was too high or to far to the side, it always got the group on the dead center bullseye. My understanding was that when the battery gets weak you tend to get wildly erratic readings, not missed shots.

On the battery issues with the CE chronograph, how does it normally manifest? I was using mine the other day, probably around 10 AM CST (bright sunny day) and it missed one or two shots over a session of probably 90 work up loads (I did fire some at left and right side bullseyes on a splatter target to not have to change target between each load). Battery seemed to be good with the old touch tongue test - so i am wondering if they were just far enough to right or left to not read, sun was too bright, or battery was weak... No errors displayed on laptop or screen, just a 10 shot group and only 9 readings. Thoughts? An assumption I made was that as long as it goes inside of the post for the sunscreens it should read - that very well could be a false assumption! I guess an easy test is to change the battery, which I am planning on tomorrow when I go out, just curious as to what others have seen and learned... I'll have to say for the price of this chronograph (and data hookup to laptop) it is one of the best tools I have purchased in a long time!

You would think that they might update their website every once in a while (just copy and pasted today): Thank you for your interest in our product. LabRadar will be available in Fall 2014. Subscribe to our priority list to receive updated information and presale offers for LabRadar.

I just got through going through testing of the "9mm 124 Gr. RMR Hardcore Match Flat Nose Plated" in a H&K USP9 and VP9 and was extremely pleased with their performance. I was comparing with Speer 147 TMJ FN and Hornady 147 XTPs (different bullet weight, but what I could get locally) and the RMR loaded and performed flawlessly. This 124 grain bullet is going to be my go to bullet, but still working out the powder, I tested with BE-86, Power Pistol, and AA #5 so far (I have some VV powders coming in). Ordering through RMR's website is simple and fast (ordered 4K Saturday afternoon and shipment arrived Thursday AM, poor postman). For me X-treme shipments always seemed to take much longer. There is a thread over on THR with several competitive shooters discussing load data and performance of these bullets - everyone in the thread seem to be really pleased with them.

I have been using the 100M (match) primers for a while now, since they were available locally for a good price, and have been very happy with them. I did not need them for any reason, but they have worked nicely. I was going to switch to something else, but since I had worked up most of my loads with the Federal match primers I just stuck with them.

wel Dang. I learn something new everyday. I hadn't seen that before. I wonder why they make the brass like that? I guess it is a cheaper process than regular brass...

Loaded up some PP and shot it thins weekend with Hornady 147 grain XTPs. Very accurate and nice shooting loads, but man it seemed like a lot more smoke out the end of the barrel than other powders!