Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

tanfoglio1911

Classifieds
  • Posts

    209
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tanfoglio1911

  1. Just an update, I put about 800 rounds or so and the ejector is still holding up.
  2. To ArmyADub1 Is there any reason behind of why you are loading short BBI bullets. I am using 165gr for my open 40 and recently ordered their 180gr for my Edge. The reason behind I asked this because, I have lot of problem in feeding when loading 1.185oal to my open STI,. In short, I went to 1.155 and this oal work perfectly. I was thinking that you might also have a reason behind why you went down to that length or maybe perhaps we have the same problem. I am trying to quote on your post but my computer won't let me.Thank you..
  3. Thanks for the heads up zzt. Yes I got enough space for the powder and I hope that the bleeders can help me to handle that unexpected muzzle movement whether it will go up or down lol.
  4. Thanks zzt... That is what I noticed too on the 155 and 165gr, that the muzzle does rise but the dot still remains in the window which is not bad for me. I am trying to see if I can find a good data or a good spot for the 140gr where it will work for me and to my pistol.
  5. You are absolutely right. I do hope that this weight will work for me and also to my gun.
  6. Thank you Big Nick. I am recently using a 165gr BBI and also used 155gr of Bayou but thinking of trying to see how these light bullets will affect the recoil.
  7. Anyone has a recipe for 140gr 40 caliber major load for open pistol using HS6 or Autocomp powder? These will be use for my STI open. Thanks...
  8. I am using this powder on my STI edge 40. Cheap, but has good accuracy and soft recoil.
  9. Try to avoid trimming or removing materials on your grip/frame and work on the SVI trigger shoe. By doing this way, you will have 2 options to use in the future.
  10. Pinned the two post and had able to put back the Ejector without any movement. Frame and slide glides very smoothly as it was originally. After the loctite will dry out, I will test and see if the ejector hold pretty well. So far very stable at this point. Thank you guys..
  11. Be REAL careful doing this. If you ever break the ejector off of that leg (chances are very slim) you will play hell getting that leg out easily. I would LocTite it.I agree 100 %. I squeeze and file down if needed where I can barely push it in with my fingers.Do I need a new pin or just repin the old one? Thanks..Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  12. Either will work. Again, go slow with the squeezing, a little at a time until it creates a tight fit.
  13. Ejector is still intact and I didn't see any dings or damaged on it. Maybe I will just give it try to remove the pin and see if it has worn out but if not, I will follow the advise of Shadow to squeeze the legs and apply Loctite. Which Loctite is good to use, the blue or the red? Thanks to everyone.
  14. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk No. There is a 3/32 pin in the frame that holds the ejector to the frame. if you remove the slide and look at the frame from the side, you will see the pin that holds the ejector in, in the groove that the slide rides in just below the ejector. This pin needs to be removed. Then the ejector will lift out if its as loose as you describe. When the ejector is removed from the frame, you will see what looks like two pins extending from the bottom of the ejector. These are the "legs" I refer to above. Once you have the ejector removed, you can see the relief ground in the front leg for the pin that AirCooled Racer is referring to. If you install a new ejector, you will have cut this groove as described above by AR, as the exact position varies from gun to gun. With your current knowledge of 1911/2011's, I'd recommend you pursue the warranty and not try to fix it yourself. If you want to continue, google a blueprint for a 1911. Thank you. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk When taking the pin out, will it be from right to left or the opposite? Thanks again
  15. If you can take the ejector off the gun, and nothing is broke, just squeeze one or both legs (the round pins on the bottom of the ejector that go in the holes in the frame) in a vise or gently peen them with a hammer. This will tighten the fit in the frame and solve your problem. Loctite and tap the ejector back in the frame and install the pin. Go slow, if you squeeze or tap too much, it will be difficult to get the ejector back in the frame. So I can remove the ejector with the pin still in the hole? If I will apply loctite, which part of the ejector it should cover? Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  16. The pin and ejector are still intact and attached but wobbling. Any link is available that can help me change the ejector will be a big help. Thank youSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  17. I am working on the warranty at this point of time. In regards to the magazine hitting the ejector, i am not aware of.. I bought this gun used and i knew 1 of the mags is tuned but the 2 were not. I don't have any knowledge or idea yet how to change the ejector, and was thinking that the ejector pin can be easily pinch out. ThanksSent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  18. Ok, I just found out that the reason behind the dragging of my 2011 slide was caused by the ejector that became loose. Now I need help if I need to replace just the ejector's pin or the ejector itself. This is for 40 cal. and want to get some recommendations in terms of which brand I am going to buy. Thanks yall in advance.
  19. Correct. It started as a regular zinc plated flat head machine screw like this: I used a dremel to grind down the head to the size and shape I wanted, then chucked it in a drill to sand down the shank to fit inside the soldering iron. Thank you. I will try to post my finish grip here next time.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  20. Are you asking me or trp?You, Sorry but my question did not went to your original post.Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk Thanks, I did the entire grip, even the mainspring housing (I stippled it, then removed it while it was still hot, before it hardened into one piece with the grip). Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the underside or the MSH.Thanks and appreciate your advice. I might gonna do it this weekend. I was looking on something to use for stippling and think about a nail to use it as a tip but did not turn out good on my trial. I've done a lot of stippling on my Glock but not on my STI's. Is that just a regular metal screw that you used as tip?Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  21. Are you asking me or trp? You, Sorry that my question did not went to your original post. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
  22. TennJeep1618 Did you stippled the whole entire grip or just the side? I'm sorry, but I can't see the whole angle from your picture. Thanks and you did a great job on that stippling.
  23. 1.185 OAL works pretty well on my Edge and Open 40 STI.
  24. WSF is my favorite powder for limited and open STI in 40. Very soft!!
  25. I had been using Carvers vertical mount before I switched to STI. Some good thing that I liked about Carver vertical mount is you don't need to do any modification on your slide and frame unlike SJC. The vertical mount is really a plus in open Glocks because It eliminates the problem of ejection. I was using a Glock 35 open and never really had a single malfunction while using it. For me, the vertical mount never really gave me a problem or obstruct my vision to look up the targets. The frame is kinda bulky but really give weight to the frame to help the recoil. The only CONS I found is the availability of holster you can use. I used a CR holster but there were a couple of times that my gun fell off or knocked off while moving around off the course of fire.
×
×
  • Create New...