5Shot

I have a video that someone posted regarding the weekhand sweep/select reload, that shows it being done pretty quickly. I don't know how to post it, but I can email it to any who are interested in seeing it. 5Shot

I use Remington Premier and the WAA12F4 wads (thanks for the tip on putting the slug in the wad first!) I have P/W 375 (Turret Type Single Stage) and use the Lyman Sabot Type Slug. I have shot some really great groups out of my Benelli Smooth Bore at 60 yards, and inside that they make one big hole in the target. I have not really fine tuned a load, but looked for one that allowed me to load 00 Buck and the Slug using the same recipe so that I didn't have to mess around with different bushings, etc. (This is the only shotgun loading I do). The load I use is soft shooting, but cycles the Benelli fine. I figure I can pay for the loader with just a few hundred rounds of either 00 or Slugs. 5Shot

I don't think you can do it with a Benelli - the barrel is chrome lined, and I believe there is an issue with the chrome flaking off. I might be wrong on that one, but I remember reading something about it in one of the forums. 5Shot

I would like to clarify this thread a bit - at no time did I say that I was having problems with the gun (I fired several hundred flawless rounds through it prior to this post). what I did say was: It isn't a huge deal to me, but I thought I would ask you guys - I had already talked to Benny prior to my post, and he assured me it was fine. I trust him, and I am sure there are several hundred happy customers here on be.com and elsewhere. In fact, I have never read a single complaint about his work - and my post IS NOT A COMPLAINT. I simply asked if anyone had a trick for keeping the pin retained as before (and someone actually responded with an answer to the question). If I had thought it a problem, I would have handled it with Benny, not through this forum. The work that was performed is what I asked for, and it only took 4 days to get it back! If the bolt was milled so much that the o-ring has no shelf or wall to pin itself against, then WAY too much material was removed. I would actually be concerned about the now very thin wall supporting the bolt. Not true - there is FAR MORE material left on the side of the bolt that was milled then there is on the opposite side where the cam pin is located (prbably 2X's as much). As Benny said - It is much ado over nothing. I just like to tinker and that is all. Benny - be assured that if I need any more work I will not hesitate to call you, and I appologize for this turning into more of an issue than was ever necessary. 5Shot

Thanks for the info Kurt. 5Shot

Thanks guys - that gives me something to work on this weekend. 5Shot

I can't see it - I believe you are over your Bandwidth Limit (porbably due to the high quality format). 5Shot

With my new lightened bolt there is nowhere for the O-Ring on the Firing Pin Retaining Pin to bear against, and it wants to walk out and rub on the inside of the receiver. It isn't a huge deal to me, but I thought I would ask you guys - Any secrets to keeping it in place? I am going to pick up a rubber washer tomorrow that has the same dimensions as the O-Ring and see if that works. I figure that since the outer surface is square and not rounded, that might work. Thanks, 5Shot

I tried the reaction time drill today - aiming at a blank target, focusing only on the start of the beep, I was able to consistently break 0.20's, and I had several 0.16's and even a 0.14. What is a good time? I know I have a long way to go, since drawing from an IDPA holster and putting a shot in the A Zone at 7 yds my time is 1.5+. The reaction to the beep is just a small part of it, but at least now I have a practice drill for that. Back to "Perfect Practice" for some more drills. Thanks for all the input, 5Shot

Thanks for all the tips - I am going to try the reaction time drill that XRe suggests to help on that end of things. As for getting things going on the Starting Line - I am going to absorb all of the other suggestions made and turn them into better shooting! I hope that doing specific drills for each area that needs improvement will culminate in better reaction at the buzzer. My focus will now be on the first target and nothing else. If my drills work, every aspect of my shooting should benefit. I guess that gets back to the TRUST/CONFIDENCE issue. Thanks again, 5Shot

Ahhhh, I see.......no, hear! 5Shot

I posed this question to Brian and this was the response: You accurately described the problem. If you're truly "waiting" - you cannot be thinking. If you're thinking about anything at all, you will always be slow to respond. So you must train you brain to know what it feels like to "just wait." Or just be watching. Have your pre-draw routine firmly ingrained BEFORE you push the timer's start button: You've checked everything, you're looking at the target, you push the start button, which triggers you to bring your focus back to where your sights are going to appear - and all you are doing is waiting to see them appear. Period. Don't think when you should be observing. This would be a good question to share with everyone. be Brian - After reading your response again, I have to ask for a little clarification. When I am truly "waiting" and only focusing on where I want the sights to appear (my first target) - how do I make sure that my Audio Awareness is peaked for the upcoming buzzer? Is that something that just comes with practice? Thanks, 5Shot

THANKS!!!

Can you reset the shot string number on the MK IV? I am new to the MK IV, and the manual that came with my XP is rather brief, so sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks, 5Shot

KurtM - so what are the magic parameters for the inertia spring (or are you keeping that a secret)? Should I be calling Brownell's and ordering a bunch of them? Thanks, 5Shot

Does a lightened bolt cycle any faster than a standard? (Not that I could utilize it anyway ) Just curious. Thanks, 5Shot

+1

How much is it worth to you???? Seriously though - what would you pay for one? This one cost me about $80.00 to have made, but if I can get him to run a bunch the cost will go down significantly. If people are only willing to pay $30.00 then it wouldn't be feasable. I would think it will probably end up closer to $55.00 with some volume. Let me know what you think. 5Shot

I wanted to show everyone the new Mag Clamp I made for my Benelli M1. I designed it in Pro-E (it is a 3D Modeling Software). It has a Mil-Std Picatinny Rail on it (both sides) so that I can mount my Sure Fire light on it. It was machined so that it clamps to the mag tube, but has a slight clearance on the barrel, so that slug impact doesn't change. I plan on finishing it with Brownell's Moly Resin finish in flat black. 5Shot

I can't believe you gave up after only 6 months . 5Shot

If I shoot heavy loads, should I stick with the heavy spring? BTW - you should be getting my Bolt in the next day or two (it is in the mail, as they say) for the Slim Fast treatment. Thanks again Benny, 5Shot

How do you tell if you have the factory installed extra power spring? When I replace it, should I go with standard or extra power? I shoot 2-3/4 full power loads (Remington game loads with the black hulls), but don't anticipate using 3". The gun started life as the tactical model with 18-1/2" barrel and ghost ring sights (don't know if that makes any difference or not). Thanks, 5Shot

#65 on schematic 301-000-129 Forend Cap w/Swivel, Extended Magazine 301-000-244 Forend Cap, Open Top, Stripped Stripped is about $10.00 cheaper 5Shot

Brownells - they sell them stripped or with the sling swivel attached. 5Shot

Thanks Benny, but I picked up a 21", and I am going to try that out before I mess with the fiber optic on the 18-1/2". Do you think that the Ghost Ring Rear will work with the 21" Bead Front? I cranked the rear down all the way, and it looks like I lowered it about the same as the difference between the bead and the original post. I am going to try it out this weekend and see where my slugs are printing. 5Shot