ArrDave

Update: Chrono'd at a match - 5.0 grains 231 with CCI LPP and 1.25 +/- .01 OAL due to brass at 812 FPS and 816 FPS - Approx 180 PF. Ambient temperature was approx 75 degrees, very high humidity I chrono'd 4.6 grains of 231 with Federal LPP and it did not make power factor at the same COAL at approx 65 degree temp. I trust the chrono at the match better. I think the chrono at 4.6 grains was not quite on. Either way, I'll probably be reducing to 4.8 grains of 231. Great projectiles, very low smoke ( I don't notice any).

or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice. Or use a luggage scale with a hook if you got one handy. My luggage scale was accurate enough to measure the 6 lb pull on my stock Rock Island .45 and the lightened 4.25 lb pull after I installed the C&S drop-in kit. From what I read on the S&W E-Series, it was supposed to have a stock 4 lb trigger pull. What happened to the OP's E-series gun? I'm supposed to receive my spings tomorrow. Between the C&S sear spring and a hammer spring kit I can hopefully bring it down into the 4's.

true. same can be said of walnut and any number of woods. So you're telling me I have mesothelioma now? I held my breath for the most part. Thought about getting my respirator, but it was late and I didn't. Hopefully I don't pay for this one later!

or make your own by duct-taping a ziploc bag to a plastic coat hanger. I just keep putting bullets in the bag until the trigger breaks, repeat a couple times, then weight the whole mess (coat hangar included). It gets repeatable accurate results on the cheap for folks that only do this sort of thing once or twice. This is brilliant. Thanks for the tip!

I am putting in a midway order today so I'll get a guinea pig sear spring and start there. I'd honestly be happy with about 4-4.5# pull. The trigger is again "OK", not great but not bad. As far as a practice gun is concerned I don't mind having it need a little more attention to trigger pull.

That makes sense, but the fitted/stoned kits are like $180 which are a bit out of my budget for now. I'll seriously consider this, just not right away. That's probably a good starting point, I'll definitely check it out.

Lost brass match

If USPSA had local week night matches nearby worth a darn I would shoot it, can't do much of the only on weekends matches with my current family situation, I might get 2 major matches a year and a weekly week night club shoot. As it is in my area IDPA is more accommodating. Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

I am shooting the Alabama State IDPA match this weekend, current forecast is thunderstorms all day... Any tips for inclement weather shooting? Going to have a poncho and an umbrella on hand, not sure about footwear... May go get some inexpensive cleats. Any other tips worth mentioning? I will be shooting a 1911 with Dan Wessons duty finish and VZ grips so I am pretty confident in my ability to grip the gun while wet and not overly worried about water hurting it. What am I missing? Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

It'd be going on a S&W E series. It's not my primary competition gun, I got it to be a backup to my Valor heaven forbid it should have a stoppage. I've swapped out every part there is to swap on a Glock before, but interested in becoming knowledgeable on "real" guns. As it is the Valor's trigger is way way nicer.

Just noticed the general gunsmithing subforum... Can someone move this?

I'm no gunsmith, as evidenced by the title of this thread, but I'm looking at lightening the factory pull of my new E Series. Yes, I could go pay a gunsmith for a good trigger job but am excited about the prospect of doing some of this myself as I'm new to the 1911 platform and have not had either gun apart entirely yet. I've watched the videos in detail stripping and I am confident that I am capable of at least getting them apart and put back together. So the question: I'm thinking about one of these Cylinder & Slide Sear Springs and a lightened mainspring (19# to match my Dan Wesson Valor which comes stock with a 19# MS). Is this something I can do as a hobbyist or better to just let my gunsmith take care of it? Can you good folks point me to "the best" resources on educating myself on this?

just got back from the gun store looking at commanders... I have to say next to the Dan Wesson the S&W E SC series felt the best. I liked the base line SC and not the performance center from a trigger perspective. Throw some grips on one of those and it's "done". Obviously didn't shoot any of them, but handled a couple different Sig carry models, the new Ruger lightweight commander, Dan Wesson CCO and VBOB. The S&W felt "lesser" than the DW but not by a whole lot. The S&W SC had an idiot mark on it already.

Just glad you didn't spend anymore time/money fixing the gun when the problem was behind it! Super frustrating and humbling when stuff like that happens.

I think the biggest difference between the two is single action vs. DASA or Striker in the classifier. Most stages for IDPA are pretty much in 7-12 yard range generally and the more forgiving SA trigger really can be exploited at longer shots out at 20 yards, but those shots are typically rare in IDPA, however the classifer stage 3 it is not. At this point the difference between the divisions is about 4 points, which could be attributable to accuracy on stage 3 entirely. The big boys can all run their triggers the same so it shouldn't matter, but it is still different. Can you drop in good SSP legal trigger kits and gunsmith fitted barrels into Glocks? absolutely, but it's more the exception than the rule.

The Accu-Shadow lite is esp legal. But the Accu with the full rail is not because of the rail with the barrel bushing. ESP actually doesn't allow full length dust covers (still). For an SP01 to be run in ESP, it has to satisfy all of the requirements for SSP, which means no mag well and if it had slide machinging it's not SSP legal...

Some of the masters I shoot with will RWR. You can begin to move with the gun in battery while you're stowing your mag so bringing the mag up when grabbing the other can be an asset, if you're any good at it. You just can't start shooting until the mag is stowed. I started wearing "Cool Guy" Tru Spec pants because the pockets make stowing mags stupid easy to the shoots for this reason.

A buddy of mine whom I shoot with recently won the FL state IDPA shoot SS SSP with a score of like 399. The MM ESP guy who is from the area and won in FL won MM ESP with a score of like 398. If you're winning the division above your current classification as you win your division, then you might be sandbagging, but unless you were intentionally flubbing a classifier to put you in MM I would say no. Per the rules you only get an equity promotion out of SS if you class as EX in any division, all other divisions are instantly raised to SS.

Just wading into this and by no means an authority on the 1911 platform, but have you tried shooting it in your left hand one handed so there is no possible way you are engaging the slide stop?

One can relube a pistol without cleaning it. The lube doesn't have to last for 5000 rounds. I'm on board with this program. Every few weeks I lock the slide back and put a drop of oil on the rails and let it slide down into the gun. I use light oils though.

This. The things you think are really important and you need to practice may not be what you actually need to practice.

What tool did you use to remove material from the grips? I've got one of these going on my back up gun and will need to recess the grip panels I'm sure.

That's pretty much what I imagined. The website makes them sound like they're some revelation to the 1911 pattern pistol and you'd be a fool not to use them but I fail to see how a nylon washer could make a gun run better.

I switch to a 1911. It took me the better part of 2 months to get back to competing with the guys I was neck and neck with, and I've actually improved on my longer shots 12-20 yds with the 1911. Slide lock reloads do hurt me a little bit as I was faster on those with my Glock but I'm continuing to improve to the point where it's negligible. Picking up better hits further down range is a welcome trade. Of course in IDPA with 18 round stages I'm stuck with 2 reloads so I won't beat my SSP/ESP counterparts, but at the same time stages set up for 3 rounds per target give me a nice clean reload after the 3rd target is engaged, so it's a wash. More importantly, I like my gun now and it makes me want to practice more so I do so my game has improved from that as well.

I'm replacing the FLGR in a S&W E I have on order with the WC flat wire recoil spring... which came with a shok buff. Two questions. 1. Is it CDP legal in IDPA? I've read the rules and it seems like it could go either way, if it was a mod to increase reliability of the gun, I could see it being legal, which the case could be made for it I suppose. 2. Does it do what it's supposed to? Does it reduce muzzle climb appreciably? Just seems a lot like a "Turbonator" Obviously the course of action will be "try and see if you like it", which I plan on doing, but figure I can at least kick tires in the interim. Thoughts?