ArrDave

Good morning shooters, I'm trying to get down my reload time on my 1911 and the game I play is IDPA so more often than not it's a slide lock reload. On the par timer about the absolute best I can manage is like 1.5S (using snap caps to actually chamber a dummy round). I "diagnosed" a couple things costing me time/consistency already: Mag pouches too far toward the point of the hip. With USPSA pouches it would be fine, but these IDPA ones kind of angle the mag back into my body when they're that far forward. Releasing the tension totally in my grip, shoulders once the firing grip is broken up until I rebuild the grip I've played around with where i hold the gun, what angle and how much I can see but I've not quite gotten the formula right so far. I feel like I'm giving up a bunch of time, especially on 18 round stages requiring a minimum of 2 mag changes. Most stage designs are not great for a good reload with retention Anybody have some good videos they can point me to? Most everything I've looked at is with a striker gun that releases with your firing hand, or is a loaded chamber reload

The match director does match bumps "by hand" on the IDPA website. Usually takes some time after the results are official. My bump from the Indoor Nats took about 10 days. Coming up on a month Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

If you're getting good groups, looks like Automatic Accuracy and Atlanta Arms have your ticket, assuming you can live with the pricetag

CPWSA sells ready tactical stuff. The mag pouches are great at a great price. The holster represents a good value, but I'd prefer a method of attachment other than a slide. He sells USPSA variants as well as IDPA variants.

I was in a very similar situation to you. I went with a Dan Wesson valor, but i wasn't done. The trigger was a very nice 4# trigger, which I am OK with so I didn't want it lightened any ( I also carry it) So cost of the gun aside, I added VZ grips ~75$ shipped w/ appropriate grip screws. Mainspring housing + mag guide $75 shipped from DW. $100 shipped for new Dawson sights (the heinies were too slow to pick up the front sight, despite being quality sights). Then there's mag cost, so whatever you want there. I don't know how the Check Mate 9mm mags are, but the 45's have performed great for me and they're inexpensive ($21 ea or less) I recently went to back up this gun and opted for a "mid range" gun (S&W E series) and I have zero pride in ownership of this thing, it's not bad, but it's not great. Same bits as above, but decided to throw the grip bushing Wilson Combat mag well in place of a proper MSH mag guide. Now if it was purely a gamer gun I would probably get a proper magwell like a Dawson Ice. I looked at ROs but really wanted some front strap checkering, and at that price point the E series was "it" that featured that. A lot of people still do a sight swap on the Range Officer, and skateboard tape the front strap. I would look at some VZ operator II grips regardless which way you go, I freaking love those things. All of this to say: If you're only going to buy one and keep it, spend the money and get into a Dan Wesson or an STI. If your'e just trying it out, hop in with a Range officer

I don't doubt it, but The C&S spring fit as is so I let it roll as I'm not a gunsmith, it passed function checks on all the safeties and didn't go full auto when i tested it. This whole exercise has shown me that .25 trigger jobs on Glocks and the world of 1911 triggers is pretty much a world apart. For what this gun is (back up / training gun), it's "good enough" for now. If I ever take the next step and get the quality tool steel hammer, disco, sear then I'll open up the wallet and pay a legit gunsmith to take care of it for me.

*** UPDATE**** I replaced the Hammer and Cylinder Light Pull sear spring with the stock one, that I adjusted the center leaf tension on (was pulling at 6+lbs). No hammer follow. Probably closer to a 4.5# pull now, as opposed to the 3#12oz pull it was with the C&S spring, but no trigger bounce in drills this morning. A friend tried to put one of these very same sear springs on his Para 2011 and was having issues with the left leaf being too short, and I also had issues with getting it installed so the hammer would stay cocked once it was seated, so I'm starting to think that it either needs serious adjusting or is intended to work with the other C&S parts.

Not sure what you mean by "dinging you for using your STI" in major matches? Is there a penalty for shooting an STI somewhere? I just shoot at the local club… Nothing major. If you're asking me if they are not letting me use my STI tactical, then the answer is no they are not. It's not only the full length dustcover, but it also has a bull barrel. So that's two strikes against it… Gotcha. All of the local matches I shoot they're a lot more forgiving on equipment rules since it's really just for fun. i should qualify these are weekly indoor matches. At the monthly club matches outdoors they probably would flag you for it since there are 100+/- shooters.

If you only intend to shoot ESP, then a 40 minor gun is cool, very little sight lift on those. IMO the doublestack reload is easier than the single stack. Are you shooting major matches in IDPA where they're dinging you for using your STI? Most club matches I've shot nobody strictly enforces the gear rules in the interim, but I can understand wanting to have that rig "ready to go".

I added center leaf spring tension and added some pretravel, and even used a lighter recoil spring. All was well in practice... until. the very. last. reload of the session where it fell to half cock. At this point, I'm going to throw the stock sear spring back in and see if I can get it happen, if which case It's going to make a trip back to S&W. Ugh. This e-series falls in "just another gun" category.

What is the deal Remington has with USPSA? That's a pretty good deal for an $800 gun.

Gotcha. Sadly I've not found the time to take the thing apart and give it a whirl. The pre-travel seems pretty generous to the point I don't think that's what the issue is. I'm pretty sure it's the middle leaf.

I help run a weekly dynamic pistol (IDPA rule set) match at an indoor range and we are taking the plunge into using Practiscore. I apologize in advance if there is another thread, I didn't see one exactly applicable but please link me to it and I'm happy to go read there. So we run usually 4 stages total on 2 bays at an indoor range. I'm trying to nail down some best practices that get people signed up in a hurry and ensure everyone's paid the range the match fee. This is what I'm doing so far: - Pushing the match via our Facebook group and the email from last week with scores. We got about half of our shooters pre-registered (usually run 30-35, last week had 43) - So folks pre-register, approve everybody before heading to the range and downloading the pin to the master device (one of the MD's iphones) - As folks pay, they get their name added to a squad list (paper) kept at the register - 5 minutes prior to first shots, logging in practiscore stops and they are issued paper score sheets if they are not pre-registered to be added at "half time" to practiscore for stage 3 and 4. - Whichever scoring MD is will squad in practiscore then pull the updates to the scoring devices. There is really only a core of like 15 guys, then about 50 or so guys that will rotate in and out every few weeks making up the rest. Do you guys have any tips/tricks for getting a match registered and squadded quickly? Or do you have some ideas that we're not looking at?

Yes you did! I was on your squad. You shot really well. It sometimes takes a few weeks for the IDPA site to be updated. Well Howdy Bill! It was good shooting with you, hope you guys made it home safe. Your CZ had me eyeing a shadow for a while, but ultimately the price tag kept me from pulling the trigger. For the divorce lawyer, not the gun.

How long does it take a match bump to show up? I won my class at a recent tier 3 match, beating 19 that are in my class or higher. Scores have been official for over a week now. Website still has my previous class.

With the heavy factory sear spring I never noticed any issues on trigger bounce with slide lock reloads. The reset is a LOT less with this lighter pull spring so it very well is likely the middle leaf needs a bit of tuning.

I changed out my sear spring for a Cylinder & Slide Light Pull sear spring and the pull weight is now about 3.75#. It has passed every function test I've thrown at it, all safeties are working, sear, disco, etc. When I use that gun for dry fire practice specifically on slide lock reloads using snap caps, every blue moon the hammer falls to half cock. I cannot get it to happen in a "sterile" environment, only when running slide lock reloads with snap caps. As this is my back up gun for my main competition gun, I've only put about 60 rounds testing it since I've changed the sear spring out. That said, it never had an issue in test firing, but as it is I'm kind of afraid to run it at my weekly if it does that every so often. I've noticed it about 3 times in 3 weeks and this morning I saw it 3 times in 5 minutes of practice. Before I run it again i will definitely get it looked at by my smith but I'd like to at least understand the problem and attempt to fix it on my own. Thoughts?

Out of curiosity, why would you go Aluminum vs. Steel in CCP other than desire to have a gun that's easy to carry?

It took me about 6 weeks to get where I was with my glocks on the 1911. Granted it was my first experience shooting a 1911 platform so others may transition faster but it was tough for me. There is no shortcut unfortunately Sent from an iDevice. Please forgive any grammatical or spelling errors. If the post doesn't make sense or is not amusing then it is technology's fault and most certainly not operator error.

Thanks for that. That will help me on my way to being a total hack pistolsmith! I'll check that out.

After EDC on my Valor and approx 1400 or so rds since january, I've got a lot of respect for the gun, the finish has held up pretty well. Only issue with the finish has been the grip screws are blued so they rust, swapped them for stainless. I'll probably stick with DW for single stacks, when I get my double stack I'll give STI a call

I would think the P01 would be the gamer gun du jour. I do like the idea of a RO Champ though... tasty! Skateboard tape on the front strap, new MSH/MS and assuming the sear spring is good to go, off to the races!

UPDATE: Tested it at the range and it didn't go full auto, cycled fine, touched off all of my CCI primers I asked it to. All is good. Used the trigger pull gauge at the range (Lyman digital) and it ranged from a low of 3#10 to a high of 4#00.5 with most falling between 3#12 and 3#14

Just curious, the STIs are talked about widely and very few of my LGSs carry any models from them. The only one I've personally handled was the Spartan, which was nice for what it was. How does a full zoot STI (say a Lawman) stack up next to a Valor?

I put the new C&S light pull sear spring in it (the left two leaves of the spring have a weird relief cut into them) and a 19# mainspring. Trigger pull I'm betting now is just under 4#. Nowhere near as nice a trigger pull as my Valor still, but a much better facsimile for it than it was in the stock configuration. If I had to bet, it was all in the sear spring. The grip safety was exceptionally stiff with the stock spring installed and the angle on the safety leaf did not look much different from the C&S spring that went in. Now, the grip safety feels nearly identical to my Valor where it depresses easier. Previously the beavertail had to be engaged just so to reliably get the hammer to fall, and once every 50 or so dry draws I would flub my grip to the point I'd need to re position slightly. Hopefully I can go test it today. All in all $20 well spent (got the 3 pack of wolff mainsprings since the 19# mainspring was out of stock everywhere)