aceinyerface

On a 550 I was getting the same thing until I started using case lube, almost all of my primer problems went away after using it. "WIN" will still give the occasional crushed or flattened primer, but about 1/100.

I don't use it, but I forget the specific problem that put it on the cull list.

Same here, I have the Lyman hand tool but it is just easier to throw them in a bucket and use other brass.

Chronoed my load, 133 avg with my lowest fps making minor, so I am good. And then... my buddy couldn't get his .380 to register, so I tried and shot the friggin chrono. Damnit! A little later, he tells me "hey this is shooting low". Well, there goes a hunnert bucks. Lesson learned... bench the gun when using the chrono, and sight in the gun first to know where it is shooting. I did a bunch of work at 25yds, and saw some improvement. I think I have been slinging lead like it was a 10 yd target instead of being patient on the sights. I didn't really change anything except my attention to the sights and willingness to hold off of pulling the trigger. I went off the timer but shot as fast as I thought I could get the hits. I did some of the doubles off the draw and some taking two steps to the line then shooting. Dot drill, I came close but still no cigar. My S2 with the Xtreme trigger and Copper Gun Grips shoots more accurately, or maybe I shoot it more accurately.

What do I do if I only have 5-6 lbs of powder and a couple thousand primers??? I friggin PANIC!! I store powder locked in a shed away from the house in old ice chests, primers inside.

It is a CZ clone, so the plunger replaces the part on the CZ that is essentially a leaf spring made of piano wire with a coil spring. Same thing for the mag spring. Coil springs > Leaf springs The only problem is they added near microscopic parts to the firearm, they are easily lost, relatively $$$ and hard to come by. I have over 10000 rounds fired and a million or so dryfired on a click pen spring.

Pulling the trigger disables the firing pin block. Were someone to drop a firearm and the trigger not be pulled, the firing pin cannot reach the primer. Does the USPSA need to mandate using a FPB? NO, they mandate not dropping a loaded firearm, which is a DQ.

This is why I don't read Doodie Project . I'm not sure why trying to understand the pros and cons of a firing pin block, or feeling one way or another about what you learn, would be a bad thing. Yeah, we need to keep him in a case marked "Break glass if your mother in law comes over".

Listen to your friend and try a different lube. If it works you win, if not then switch back.

Not good. Auction site for $2000 and let someone else deal with it.

Mine did exactly the same thing, I was using a 6lb recoil spring (hey, it is what Henning's site recommended http://henningshop.com/products/tanfoglio-recoil-spring-by-wolff-gunsprings). Stoeger recommended getting a 10lb spring and it never happened again.

Trying to logic it out, as the gun becomes dirty the slide slows down and begins to eject slowly or not at all. Maybe your recoil spring is too heavy causing the slide to decelerate too quickly. Maybe you need a different lubricant. I have a 10lb spring and use 10w30 on mine and have no problems.

You can send me all the FC brass and I will be sure it is properly disposed of. (after I load it 5 times or so)

Case lube will help

You have to use the original hammer spring.

Case gauge failures on the Hundo are re gauged with the Dillon gauge, passes get made into practice ammo. If it fails the Dillon, it WILL jam the gun. Generally, PPS will flunk the Hundo but pass the Dillon. I'm good with that.

I wasn't culling, and then I started seeing a pattern in what would fail the Hundo case gauge. Aguila fails a lot, Tula, CBC is pretty bad, NATO (don't like dealing with crimped Primers) some of the other odd ball stuff. I started culling all of those and the odd ball stuff. My case gauge failures went way down. I used to have fits with crushed primers, then I started laying all the cartridges out on their side in a crawfish tray and spraying with case lube. now I rarely have a problem. This all saves me money on wasted components. I'll either trade off the culled brass or bring it to the scrap yard.

This is still production legal since the stock 1 is on the list, right? Exactly. The same reason you can part swap a tricked out hammer onto a Tanfo.

A torx precision screwdriver from Lowes. The hot jam is to replace the ambi with the Stock 1 safety, I can get much higher grip without that useless thing in the way.

108 degree heat index. I did pretty well managing that. A towel dipped in the melted ice around my neck really works well. Shot a B classifier, my misses were close C's and I miscounted and didn't fire one of the shots. I clipped a few no shoots. After all of that, I still made 4th place in Production. Need to work 25 yard shots, Bill Drills, transitions, shooting on the move, etc...

Gump is right. All those high dollar parts give very marginal tweaks in performance for all the money spent. I keep shelling out for fiber front sights and I don't get any better visibility than the stock sight with a dot of neon fingernail polish. I got the Xtreme trigger and it is only a hair different than the stock one. Springs and a polish to get the out of the box trigger pull down, and an xl firing pin to compensate for that and you should be good. Everything else is marginally better at best.

Match on Sunday. I'm going to watch my sights and haul butt. This is going to go well or bomb terribly.

I have taken a file to my Stock 2 mag well and I believe it is stainless steel but have no other evidence. Looks like another fellow filed on his and didn't hit raw steel

I bought 2 in the last year and paid less than $950 for each. Patience will pay off.

Well, they come right out and state the MSRP on the listing.