tpe187

I just got done reading a thread about Winchester turning over their primer production to an off shore manufacturer. The rumor is that quality is worse and variations greater in the newer lots of primers. Has anyone experienced this? Is it all Winchester primers or just a certain type. I know that Winchester is a popular primer for Shotgun loads and they are really the only primers I load with. If the quality has gone down hill, I might just have to turn to Remington primers. Anyone hear anything else on this? Couple this with Winchester canning the Model 70 and model 94 and I'm wondering what the world is coming to

Generally speaking, you get about 50fps for every inch of difference in a barrel length. This is more true in rifles and is exponential in pistols depending on how fast a powder you using. Couple this with the ussual higher velocity from a glock's polygonal rifling and you are in the ball park. This is why it is important to chronograph loads through all guns. I actually did a similar test today. In a Sig P226 in 40 my 180gr load got an avg of 922fps, the same load in a Glock 22 got 932. Not a big difference, but add in different temps and time of day that you Chronographed, different barrel lengths and you could easily see a 100fps difference. As long as you don't see any pressure signs and you arent working near maximum, I wouldn't worry about it.

Hello All, I was at the range today, chronographing some loads I came up with to shoot in my SIG 226 and Glock 22 in 40. I loaded them with 4.5gr of Titegroup, WSP, 180gr Zero JHP to an OAL of 1.125. They made major in both guns, barely with PF's of 166 and 168 respectively. Temp was 55 degrees. Then I got the idea to run them through my Benny Hill 2011 and see what they run. They made a PF of 169 and ran flawlessly. My normal load for this gun is 4.7gr of Titegroup, loaded to 1.185 with 180gr Zero JHP's. My question is why bother loading long? I know the two issues that I have seen people bring up are pressure and feeding. This load seems to be middle of the road as far as pressure goes and my gun seemed to feed just fine, albeit with only 100rds through it today. I have not tested the load for accuracy, but I will the next time out. Does the lower pressure make the gun feel softer in recoil? Does it increase case life appreciably? Is there anything else I'm not considering? Anyone ever experiment with this. There must be a reason everyone is loading 40 long. Maybe its a throw back to the old PF. Mabye the 1911 based guns don't generally feed well with the 40 since it was designed for the 45 ACP /38 ACP If it doesn't make an appreciable difference, I will just have a common loading for all my 40 S&W guns so I don't have to load for different guns. What am I missing here? Thanks for your thoughts Tom

Here is a good link for Cold weather operations Coldn Weather weapons maintenance Bottom line, NEVER run it dry, lube with LAW (Artic Weapons lube) if in the military and available; for everyone else, use synthetic motor oil in 0w or 5w weight. Worst case, a very light coat of CLP. The info about the weapon getting condensation on it is worth noting. I don't recommend leaving your weapon outside in the cold, but insure you wipe it down after it reaches the inside temp, probably about 30minutes to an hour.

Right-hand end of my bench such that the handle can cam-over. DON'T mount like the picture in the manual (handle flat on bench) - will give inconsistent results, not to mention the occasional pinched finger, and the ergonomic pain in the neck of having to slide ones fingers under the bar (not the ball/handle) to lift the arm. If this sounds like the voice of experience...it's because it is... Sounds good. I think thats the way I'll mount it. I'm busy the next few weeks, but after that I'll try mounting it on the end. Thanks Tom

Hi Guys, Finally broke down and bought the Dillon Swager. The one thing I noticed in the handout was that there was no mention of how you should mount it. Granted, how hard can it be, but I noticed that the handle can "cam over" if you will and will push further into the pocket if you mount it on the edge of your bench, sort of like a normal single stage. In the picture in the manual, it looks like the mounted it so the handle can only go flat, no further than 180. I'm just wondering how you guys mounted it and if you had any tips to speed up doing it. Thanks for your thoughts. Tom

Yep, just saw the video today. I must say it got my attention. Always looking for ways to spend more money. I have a Beretta AL391, but never thought of using for 3 gun because of the capacity. I'm not familiar with the Xtrema 2, so maybe it uses a different system. I would think there would be more interest in this, so maybe we can find out who makes the tubes. Anyway, here is a link to the video: www.usswaddell.com/firearms/shotgun.wmv

Hi Guys, I'm working up a 3gun load for my JP 18" with 55gr fmjbt. Just wondering what velocity you guys are aiming for with your reloads. Currently I loaded some 55's and BLC(2) and got an average of 3000fps with Win brass and primers. I was thinking It should be up a little higher, more like 3100-3150 out of an 18". 62gr SS109 ammo clocked just over 3K in my upper. Thanks for your thoughts Tom

I know this thread has been going on for a while, but I just thought I would add my experiences. I think its possible to find one or two powders that are ok in mulitiple guns, but you will be better served by finding which powder your particular gun likes. I don't think you can beat Clays for .45 and shooting paper. It is just too soft and accurate to try anything else. Because of my success with Clays in .45, I looked at loading it in .40 as well. After two seperate case head seperations, I won't load it anymore. Now, these were both in generous chambers (Glock 22 and Sig 226) and loaded to standard length. In my opinion, Titegroup is a really good powder for .40 as many here will attest to. It does run dirty in my guns, but the price and performance is worth it. Just wanted to add my .02 and caution against the use of Clays in .40.

I think you see a lot of people using WSR primers because they can buy a lot of one type instead of using both WSP and WSR for different loads. I know that I use WSR because I can just buy one type for loading .223, 38super and .40. Erosion is something I have not run into yet.

Jeez, did you have carpal tunnel syndrome after that? Thats like 12hours of reloading!! Your my Hero! I don't think I even have 10K cases to reload!

Hello all, I was doing some bulk reloading last night and the thought struck me as to how many rounds people have loaded at one time. I just did 500 which wasn't really that bad. I know there are people out there that load thousands at a time I started on a 550 and about a year ago moved to a 650. I find that I have to stop and tweak something or other several times in the first 1-200 rounds. Thats just because I have 11 calibers that I reload for, so its inevitable that I get rushed and forget to change something. Worst so far was leaving the large primer tube in the mag while loading small primers. It did a good enough job but just kept putting them upside down and occasionally it would lock up the primer disk. I took it off, cleaned it, adjusted the station tab, all the hard stuff but never checked to make sure it was the right tube. Stupid me. I'm surprised I didn't set off all the primers with a sideways one. Good old Winchester primers I guess. Anyway, please post some of your marathon runs with your machines. Most I have done has only been 800, so not much. Tom

Yep, for a match, I find there are a lot of other things to bring. Especially if I'm travelling several hours or have to fly. I don't want to be scrounging when I get there. Spare parts are a must for common problem areas. These are all gun specific, but if possible, a backup gun is nice to have. Worst case, most people will let you borrow their gun to finish. Clothes are another good issue. Nothing like getting drenched and then having to drive several hours in your truck back home. A nice light rain jacket and some dry change of clothes is a must have. As for tools, that could be a big list as well. I usually bring at least a Gerber Multitool and a pocket set of hex keys. A small brass hammer and punch is good also. What else do you guys bring? Tom

Hi, I just got one of these about two weeks ago because I was having problems with my Dillon gage and long loaded 40 rounds. The gage is cut using actual chamber reamers so it is exactly what you will get if you took off your barrel and checked, which is a nice feature. Its set up specifically for the long loaded 40 rounds where you might get bullet contact above the case mouth with other gages. The added benifit of having a flat, long gage as opposed to the several round gages is also nice. One other benifit, depending on where you do your reloading is that Aluminum will not rust, unlike my Wilson's here in LA. For $20 its well worth it. Tom

Sunscreen and Bugspray are good ones. Also forgot the mag brush. Yes, by all means bring someone new to the range so they can shoot and offer to let someone shoot your guns, espeically if you are well enough off to have something fancy or expensive.

Got my fiber optic today. Installation was really easy. I just put one end in from muzzler to breach side leaving 1/16 exposed, used a regular lighter about 1/4 away until it melted against the sight. Then pulled gently to make sure it seated, cut off about 1/16 left toward muzzle and melted using the same method. Seems rock solid to me, with no mess. I think I used about 3/4 of an inch. Now I have a lifetime supply of the stuff for all of 5.75 shipped. Thanks for the link to the cheap stuff and for the ideas on how to install. Tom

After one to many trips to the range while forgetting something important ie Ammo or the Chronograph screens, I decided to make a Checklist that I will use prior to going to the range. While not encompassing every little thing you can take, this will all fit in my Shooters Connection bag, minus the guns. I normally keep it packed with the normal things, but I think this checklist will help me out. Anyone else using one, or do you have anything that you would add? Keep in mind this is for local outings, 10minutes from home, not a trip to a major match, several states away. The actual card is about 5x7 with two columns with small blocks to check off. Tom Guns Rifle Pistol Shotgun Magazines Rifle Pistol Ammunition Rifle Pistol Shotgun Glasses Ear Protection Holster with Belt Range Book Pen, Pencil, Alcohol Marker /eraser Chronograph Skyscreens / Tripod Timer Spotting Scope/Stand Shooting Rest Laser Rangfinder Stapler w/Staples Targets Tools Cleaning supplies – Hoppes, Oil, rag, Squib rod / Cleaning Rod Extra Batteries – 9v, C-more / Aimpoint, AA for Muffs Brass Bag Hat Water/Snack Cell Phone set to Vibrate

Hello All, Just wanted to post an update on the 38 super load with IMR7625. 8.2grs loaded to 1.23 OAL, crimped to .378 with a 115gr Zero JHP,WSR primer, Rem Nickel 38 Super Brass AVG 1472.6 for 10 shots, 7ft from Chrono SD 5.6fps ES 18.3 PF 169 at 65 degrees Accuracy 1" at 25yds from sandbagged rest out of 5.5" SVI with Schueman Barrell

Oops, sorry I missed that. It was 7.9grs. I'm going to try 8.2 to make sure it makes major and I'll post back what I get. Thanks

Hi All, Just got back from the range and some more load development. I figured I would post the results here, to maybe help someone else out. Load 1 - Pistol SVI Comp gun with Schuemann 5.5" barrel and 8port Comp (4top, 2each side at end) Powder VV3N38 - 9.3gr Bullet - 115gr Zero HP Primer - Winchester Small Rifle Brass - Remington Nickel 38 Super +P marked Loaded to 1.22 OAL with .379 crimp 10 rounds fired 7ft from Chronograph (PACT XP Pro) Hi 1348 SD 13.8 Lo 1308 AVG 1335 PF153.5 Load 2 Powder VV3N38 - 10gr Bullet - 115gr Zero HP Primer - WSR Brass - Remington Nickel 38 Super +P marked Loaded to 1.22 OAL with .379 crimp 10 rounds fired 7ft from Chronograph Hi 1404 SD 19.3 Lo 1352 AVG 1378.9 PF 158.4 Load 2 out of 5" Kart Barrel in STI limited gun Hi 1462 SD 23.2 Lo 1370 AVG 1402 PF 161.2 Notes: I was surprised how little gain in velocity there was going from 9.3grs to 10grs in VV3N38. Accuracy was fairly good at a little over an inch at 25yds for five shots from a sandbag with both the SVI 5.5"and STI 5" Load 3 Powder IMR 7625 - 7.9gr Bullet - 115gr Zero HP Primer - WSR Brass - Remington Nickel 38 Super +P marked Loaded to 1.24 OAL with .379 crimp 10rds over Chrono Hi 1445 SD 11.4 Lo 1410 AVG 1427 PF164.1 Load 4 Same as load 3 but OAL is 1.23 Hi 1435 SD 9.4 Lo 1406 AVG 1424.8 PF163.8 Load 4 out of 5" STI Hi 1462 SD 9.6 Ll 1432 AVG 1454.2 PF 167.2 Notes: This load was really accurate at about an inch at 25yrds, which is probably limited by me, not the gun. This load feels slightly softer than the 10gr 3N38 load which clocked 50fps less. Since IMR 7625 is way cheaper than 3N38 and the SD's were much lower, I think I will use it for this gun/bullet combination. I'm just going to tweak the load about .3grs more in 7625 to make sure I make major. Temperature was 65 degrees for all chrono results. All rounds loaded on a Dillon 650 with Redding Competition Seating die. Tom

Thanks to all for the quick replies! I just ordered BE's book, Steve Andersons Refinement and Repitition, Saul Kirsh's Perfect Practice and Matt's DVD's Vol 4 and Vol 7. Now I'll have all of Matt's videos minus Vol 5 beause I don't do IDPA. These should be a great start and with the new timer it will be interesting to see the areas that I make improvements in. Thanks again. Tom

I've been shooting for several years, and have done several IPSC matches, but haven't really focused on a training program. I have both limited and open guns and depending on how I feel on a particular day, I shoot either one. I would say I was a C to B class shooter right now. I now have the new PACT MKIV timer and I want to start improving my skills. I'd really like to start getting the most out of the timer. I initially noticed that I was pretty accurate, but slow in my draw and initial shot. What books or DVD's are most helpful to a shooter trying to learn the basics or break old habits? Thanks for any help. Tom

thanks Eric, I'll try 9.6 and 9.9 and see what that gets me. Tom

Wow, just what I was looking for! Thanks for posting all that! Tom

Hi Guys, I'm constantly hearing different information about maintenance on the Dillons. I have a 650 that I try to keep well maintained. What I would like to know is if anyone has ever come up with a diagram or a video that details where and what you should lubricate. I know the main shaft gets 30w motor oil and the center stud is supposed to be greased, but what else. The manual only mentions those two spots. I remember when the machine was new there was grease on the shell locater, and on the plastic slide for the case feed and on the actuator for the primer advance. I don't see any mention of that in the manual. I also know that there are holes in the linkage that people grease. I don't have a grease gun that small, so I use oil. I have the maintenace kit that has the syringe of grease, but no other mention of where to use it. What kind of grease is in this syringe anyway? I know this has been asked before, but I couldn't find anything in my search. Maybe I'm not asking correctly. Any old links or directions to the info would be greatly appreciated. As a caveat, I am only loading about 4K a year so no danger of it disintagrating on me and I know Dillon would replace anything that did. Thanks. Tom