tpe187

Hi Guys, I'm almost done tweaking my M1100 CM. Got the Ez loader working right and now I'm looking at the mag spring and follower. I measured the spring with the mag extension off and it measures 4 1/2 inches past the muzzle. I have heard it should be around 10 inches. Is this true? If so, where should I get the springs to replace it with? Does anyone make a Delrin follower? Barring that, what are you guys using. Thanks P.S. My new CTR-02 from JP Enterprises gets here on Wednesday, so I won't bug you anymore on shotguns for a while. Thanks to everyone who has gotten me this far. Tom

Yep, Mine has the little finger that protrudes out from the lifter. Right now it is not contacting the catch, so I will adjust it slightly. I missed that part in Sweeney's book. What page does it describe adjusting this. Thanks for the input

Hello all, Just did an EZ loader install, but won't be able to get to the range for a little bit. My question is that after installing and loading some dummy rounds, when I load one and then rack the bolt back it ejects the round, but doesn't load the next one. The round is pushed back on the lifter but doesn't load. I know that the incoming round must contact the lifter latch to activate it and make it raise. When I manually cycle it just locks back. Does something need to be adjusted, or is this normal. Second question: I have the 1100 CM and after reading Pat Sweeneys book a little, he mentions using a 3" lifter. Is this necessary on the CM or is it a good modification. Not sure what the CM comes with. Third, When I had the lifter off I bent the catch leg on the lifter slightly while trying to file. What is the proper location of the leg? Should it be slightly to the side of the lifter latch, but not contact it, or should it just slightly touch it, or actually be in front of the latch. Wish I could get to the range to figure it out. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks Tom

I actually ordered the book today, but I'd like to get the install done and tested out this weekend. Anyone willing to scan a few pages and email them to me or post them. Thanks Tom

I'm about to get started on putting the Easy Loader on my Rem 1100 CM and I'm wondering if anyone has a graphic depiction of the install. Is there a site somewhere or link. Thanks for any info.

Had a 550 for about four years. Have had a 650 for a year now. If cost is not an issue, go for the 650. I wanted a 650 to start with, but didn't have the money. That being said, when I finally did sell my 550 with some accessories, I was able to get 75% of the new cost, so they do hold their value. 550 is a simple setup to run. 650 is a little more challenging, but very doable. #1 reason to go with the 650 is the auto indexer, for safety. Yes, we all want to look down into each case and we don't have any distractions, but, Murphy is out there. Shit Happens. I was lucky and only has some squibs and not a double, but it made me nervous, especially with .45 and Clays. #2 reason is the casefeeder. Once I had it set up, WOW, what a difference in speed. You can take your time double checking your loads before you start, then really crank them out once everything is verified. Take your time to look at all the costs. Depending on what you want to reload, there are lots of components to buy for caliber changes. Some work with other calibers so you can just buy the parts instead of a conversion for every caliber. ie. .45 and .308. Same shell plate. .223 and 38 Supercomp, same shell plate. Do a search on google and you can find a chart that tells you what components are duplicated. Bottom line, Go for the 650. You won't regret it.

Hopefully you have the spare parts kit. If you do, the ring is in there. I did the same thing a few months ago, and of course, it is never convenient. Luckily, I did have the spare parts kit, so I was only out of commision for a half hour. Called dillon and they had an new one to me in a few days. They also included a stainless steel alignment pin, so it would go on straight. I had already replaced it without it and have loaded 3K rounds since then with no problems. If you call Dillon tomorrow morning, they should have it to you by Wednesday or Thursday. If you don't have the spare parts kit, now would be a good time to get it The actually replacement is pretty easy. Instructions are included from dillon, but you can figure it out without them.

Wasn't sure where to put this, but I figured people would want to know, so Moderators, please post where you think it will do the most good. At the SHOT show this year, the ATF announced that it had changed its stance on sending and recieving FFL's by FAX/EMAIL. This was great news for most of us who purchase firearms online so we get the best price/ don't pay the local tax. Ussually it took about 4-5 days to get a signed copy in the mail and then get it to whoever needed it. I had run into problems with a local FFL who recieved a gun, but it didn't have a copy of the senders FFL, so I had to wait a week or more to actually get it. The ATF has a very poor method of getting the information out. I actually called two ATF branches and asked them to verify the fact, which they did, but then they couldn't point me to a place on the website that stated that. Most FFL's won't take your word for it. Finally had to have the ATF agent call the dealer and he finally gave in. Well, now the ATF actually has it up on its website. Here is the link http://www.atf.gov/firearms/newsletter/0805fflnewsletter.pdf I'm sure most FFL's won't have that info for a while, so you might want to print it out or copy the link if you wan't to have a transfer done. Hope this helps out some people. At least it gets us more time shooting and less time waiting. Tom

If you do a search of Gunsamerica.com, they have a couple NIB M1's for 679. I guess realistic cost if about 725-750 after transfer and shipping.

Ok, Got it, Daves Metal Works. Thanks

Ok, Who or What is DMW. I did a search, but can't seem to find out.

Well, I went to the range today and my M1100 CM worked wonderfully. I put 200 rds through it as fast as I could load and shoot. I had drilled the gas ports out to .109 and made sure everything was well lubed with Mobil 1 5w30 and put a new O ring on. The rounds were Win AA reloads with 1 1/8 #5, Blue Duster wad, Win 209, 18.6gr Clays, gave an average of 1145 fps. Threw the shells about a foot to the right. Not as vigorous as I would like, but for now I will leave it. Seems to be running well. The ports did clean up pretty well. Just a slight trace of burr from the drilling, but that will probably go away soon. Thanks to everyone who helped me out. Tom

Well, in my quest to make my M1100 CM work, I just had to talk to BH. Now, I'm looking at all the Benelli guns out there. From what I can find, there are still plenty of M1's out there with an average cost of $675 New. Used ones go around 600 as far as I can tell. That is for both the pistol grip and regular stock. M3's are not that bad either and seem to have a unique system that I played with a few years ago, but didn't break it down. From what I have seen on the M1's the extension allows 7 rounds in the tube, one in the chamber and 1 floater, but I"m not sure what the floater means. I believe the M2's did away with this feature. Are the M2's that much better than the M1's? The cheapest M2 Tactical I could find was $900 new. I would probably just get a Field model in 21" and get the mag extension. Then I read about the M4/1014. This model really interests me, but 1014's go for around 1200 used to 1400 new. Is there system really that much better? I know that the M4 model will be coming out in several months, so maybe its worth ordering. How is the mag capacity on these. I have read its like the M1 with 7 plus one, but not sure about the floater feature. So, after all that, if any of my facts are wrong, please let me know. This gun would primarily be a 3 gun shotgun, with a possiblity of some home defense built in there. With the current market what it is on M1's, is that the way you would go, M1, M2 or M4/1014.? Do you like the pistol grip better or the straight stock. What is max capacity on each model? What mods would you do to the different models? Thanks for taking the time to help me out. Tom

Just so those interested in this thread know, I talked with multiple supplies of Nightforce scopes and they all confirmed that the 1x4 NXS won't be available until January-February 06 at the earliest. Price looks to be around $1100. Guess I'm back to square one.

Thanks guys, Good info. I will leave it for now and if the urge strikes me, I will send it off to get the forcing cone lengthened and while there, I'll have them polish the barrel.

Hi Guys, Well, did some searching and figured that opening up the gas ports would help out a lot. So, I went from .90 to .95 and then to .109. I think that will do it for now. What I haven't read about, is how you go about deburring the inside of the barrel after you drill. Its very minimal, and might not make any difference at all, but just curious what those that have done this have done. Thanks Tom

I have a brand new Remingtion Competition master. I made some shells up, went to the range and not one of them would cycle the action. It moved about an inch and that was it. I checked the fit of the all the gas parts and everything was well. I hand cycled about a hundred rounds to try to break it in, but no luck. My reloads were AA hulls, 18.3gr of Clays for an average of 1143fps out of this gun. Shooting 1 1/8 ounce of #5's. Wads are Blue Duster Win AA12 replacement. Primers are WIN 209. As a test, I purchase some sporting clays loads from the range, which were Federal game loads, 71/2 shot at 1290 with 1oz load. Still didn't work. Today, I called Remingtion and told them of the problem. After speaking with some folks in the repair center, they stated that the minimum the competition master would cycle were 1 1/4 ounce loads at 3 and 1/4 dram, which equates to 1220fps. Now, that sounds like a bit much to me. I don't know what would make this any different than a skeet 1100 that can fire 1 1/8 loads at 1200fps all day long. Granted, mine were a little slower, but shouldn't be that bad. As a side note, I dissassembled it when I got it and cleand everything. No lube on anything but the trigger and a little in the reciever area. Piston and seal are of the new one piece variety with flat side toward trigger and barrel seal in groove of mag tube.. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Should I send to someone to get the ports opened a little bit, try a different wad/powder combo, or maybe try to break it in a little more. Any parts to polish that would smooth it up a bit. Thanks for any help Tom

Getting into 3-Gun, Will be ordering a JP Rifle on Monday. Right now looking to get an 18" medium weight with 1/8 twist. Will likely be shooting most targets from 7yd to 300yd. (East Coast) Probably going with a 69gr bullet, but I will let the rifle decide that. Question: In doing my searches for Optics on this board, I have narrowed my choices down with several criteria. It has to be a variable, between 1-5, have a decent field of view, be a quality optic (I know the Simmons Pro Diamond works for some, but my experience with cheap scopes discounts it) and be durable. What I have narrowed it to: Nightforce 1-4x24 NXS, Horus Vision Talon, or IOR 1.1-4x26 CRT. I read the reviews on the Horus saying the dot is too big, but still looking. I think the Nightforce scopes are really nice (and expensive!) but I'm willing to pay for durability and quality glass. The reticle selection is a challenge, but for what I will mostly be doing, I think the FC2 reticle will be best. Anyone have this scope on their rifle? Are there better options out there. I like the 1.5moa dot in the FC2 as well as 95ft FOV at 100yrds. Thanks for your input Tom

Hello, I have been looking at getting a JP CTR-02. I looked at all the different parts they use and if I were to purchase all the parts, minus the upper and lower, I would come out at about $1500. That means I'm paying about $1000 for the assembly and upper and lower reciever. I have a Rock River carbine and the tools needed to change everything out, so I'm wondering if just getting the parts is a better way to go. Is the CTR Reciever that much better than stock AR parts? I'm interested in all opinions. I would really like to hear from those that have the CTR-02. Has anyone just added the parts? My budget allows for the purchase, but if it won't make much of a difference, I'll just build it myself. Thanks

I'm about to order a limited/3 Gun tactical pistol from Benny Hill. He brought up the possibilty of making it a 6" rather than a 5". The 6" would have lightning cuts in the side and top. I understand the less recoiling mass is better, but the 6" gun is actually lighter than a 5" extended frame slab side. Who here has experience with both and if you could, tell me what the pro's and con's are. Benny said it was like going from shooting an Officer length to a full size. I'm just worried about how it handles, shoots. Thanks

Hi, Hope this is the right place for this. I've talked with Benny Hill and he will be building my limited/3 gun pistol. I was set on a 5" slabside extended dustcover, but then he said he shoots a 6" with lightning cuts and a lot of people are moving to that. He has one picture on his site, but I'm looking for some others and some different opinions on shooting a 6" It will be a 40 s&w with possibly an additional 38 super barre. Thanks for your time

Thanks for all your help. I'm going to have Benny Hill do my Limited Pistol and I might just send my AR for a trigger job and maybe a barrel. Thanks agains

Just getting into 3 gun, haven't shot a match yet. I'm good on a limited Shotgun and Pistol, just wondering what I need to be competive for an AR. I have a Rock River with 16" barrel, Aimpoint ML2, and collapsible stock. I have seen pictures of guys with what looks like 20 barrels with comps. I have looked at the stuff on JP Enterprises, but its a little pricey. I have the equipment to change the barrel, if needed, but was wondering changes you would make from the start, ie ACOG instead of Aimpoint, Better Iron sights, Trigger job, Float tube and barrel or other stuff. Thanks for helping a newbie out. Tom