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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!


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About twong11219

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  1. The effort to widen that 0.04" exposed channel to 1/16" (0.06") is just not worth it. You can file away the channel and just drill out the end holes to 1/16", but your FS and FO will be prone to damage easier if you snag a barrier. Have you tried just heating the FO end a bit more till you get the blob of a dot you want? I've seen plenty of botched big dots from overheated thin FO using a lighter at a match.
  2. @yigal: it's really a matter of personal preference. From a design perspective, the original flat trigger extended the reach from the curved trigger quite a bit. So for ppl with big hands, this will be a welcoming addition. For many others, switching from curved to flat, the added reach makes DA pull more challenging, especially for small hands. So for people that still want a flat trigger face, this is the compromise. Also, reprofiling the trigger face provides a SA angle similar to a SAO trigger angle. More perpendicular to the barrel, than negative angle. Now the added texture on the front was to try and aid in facilitating more grip pulling the trigger in DA. I think the grip is just enough to give that extra bite, hopefully w/o disrupting your aim. SA is a non-issue because, by that time, the reach is shortened and pull weight has dropped. Based on what my squad mates have commented, the modification has been extremely well accepted. The switch from curve to flat is not as jarring and fits better to what they were initially use to, except now flat faced.
  3. Experimented with a new pattern lately. Starting to get more traction, figuratively and literally.
  4. Due to the increased popularity of reprofiling them triggers, thought I'd make a holder to cut down setup time. Much better hold now than using machinist clamps and repeatable angle every time.
  5. I was the one that did the milling on the OP's triggers. It was done more as a favor and experimentation. I'd be glad to take on work, but I feel the monetary value in time may outweigh the cost of the trigger. I will share my recipe if you care to take the same journey at your own risk. I use a milling machine to do this. I clamp down the trigger directly to a 123 block using machinist clamps. Reason for the block is I can rotate the part and hold pretty square for checkering. Less setup headaches. Square the trigger to the angle and allow overhang to the amount of material you want to remove. I use a 1/2" end mill to remove the excess stock. The KEY to the checkering is a special 40 lpi 11 line cutter. I bought mine a long time ago, but I believe Evolution Armory sells them now. Cost WILL outweigh the trigger for that specialty cutter. It's slightly under 1/2"D thus why I used the similar end mill to reduce the initial material. The checkering can be done with a checkering file, but the vertical cuts will be hard to do all the way to the pivot (not impossible). The tap I use is a M3x0.5 only because that's the set screws we had available. A 4x40 tap and set screw may work just as well but finer is better. If you have any questions or really interested in me doing the milling, DM me to discuss.
  6. Finally got a chance to make my login. Very informative site.
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