Jayson@IGF

No need to use small rifle primers, but if you were to run out of small pistol and needed to you could use them.

I've been wanting to pick up some Oakleys, but have been too lazy to find a dealer. Some local motorcycle shops have them occasionaly but only a limited selection. I see a lot of people wearing prescription eye glasses at the local range. I hadnt thought about that not being the best idea before. I have been hit a couple times with pieces of lead big enough to shatter glass.

That's a tough one. I practice with some friends of mine and I bet we shoot 100+ yard rifle less than anything. It takes a lot of time to get to the targets and get them taped. But the way we usually do it is to shoot at some IPSC targets while someone spots to let us know where we are hitting. And we usually have some steel out too to shoot at after the paper. Then we walk down tape up the targets, pick up the steel, and repeat.

I've lost that keeper band. Do they sell them alone? -Chet <{POST_SNAPBACK}> They should, I'm waiting to lose mine it falls off at just about every match and I manage to locate it. I have two belts and the hooks have come loose on both of them, so I need that keeper band.

I have one on mine and like it. I can get a better hold on the rifle and hold it steadier. Also when used with a Beta Mag on some stages I can put the grip on the ground when going prone so it works almost like a monopod for long distance shots.

I've been building AKs for quite awhile. They make up about 50% of my work load with Hks making up the other half. I dont think a 7.62 AK could be very competitive especially at range. They have quite a bit more recoil usually than an AR and most available ammo is not accurate, then on top of that the gas system puts a lot of flex on the barrel which hurts accuracy as well. Then you are up against it with magazine changes and no bolt hold open either. However the 5.45 Bulgarian or Russian AK-74 can come close to holding its own against an AR. The accuracy is there and the recoil is dimished compared to the 7.62 AK. Also I think the AK has a better trigger group, fairly easy to get a nice two stage 3lb pull. Usually they are more reliable than an AR. But they still dont have the quick mag change capability of the AR and the bolt carrier and bolt are heavier which makes the rifle rock up and down quite a bit more than an AR. I've got or at least owned nearly every AK variant there is and I still shoot an AR at 3 gun in rifle. However I have a SAIGA 12 I am planning on using in open class as soon as I get enough magazines. I am also going to make some extended base pads for the magazines so I can get 11 rounds in them. I think the AK based SAIGA 12 is going to be real hard to beat in open class.

I have a 16" rifle with a vertical grip and have no problems with the Beta Mag getting in the way. A friend of mine says his forearm hits the beta when getting a grip on his 16" gun, but is not bad on his 20". Before I used a Ready Mag, and I dont think the Beta is much heavier than the Ready mag with two loaded magazines on the rifle. The Beta also makes a good base when going prone. Sometimes it is a little low, I am thinking about making a "base pad" for the Beta to raise it up a hair. I think with that it would be almost as good as a bipod.

I like the Aimpoint scopes now that they have the magnifier available. I have an ML2 mounted on my rifle, that works great on the up close stages. Then when we go to a stage with 100 yard + shots I can add the magnifier which snaps on the rail behind the ML2. It adds 3X power and works fine on the distance shots. Since it is just a magnifier that goes on behind it does not change the zero and can be quickly added or removed. This photo has the Aimpoint quick mount on the mag, I like the ARMs 22M68s instead since they come competely off the rail. The Aimpoint mount leaves the base on when the mag is off.

If you like your Aimpoint on the close up stuff you might try a magnifier for the long distance shots. I have an ML2 with the 4MOA dot and a 3X magnifier and dont have any problems hitting 10" plates at 200 yards. The ML3s and C3s with 2MOA dots will be out soon and will really work well I think for the long range stuff. And if anyone is in the market for an Aimpoint I am a distributor and stock the complete line my Aimpoint page is here http://www.investmentgradefirearms.com/Aimpoint.htm

3 gun is combined scores for a rifle, shotgun, and pistol. Typically the rifle would be an AR, the shotgun a semi auto, and the pistol about anything with 2011s probably being most popular. 3 gun matches are usually divided into seperate groups the most popular would be limited - iron sights on everything tactical - 1 optic on the rifle, no optics on shotgun or pistol open - optics ok on everything, open class pistols, multiple shells can be loaded into the shotgun at once Also He-man is popular with He-man it's a .308 rifle, pump shotgun, and single stack .45.

I think the green looks good. But I'm biased almost all my stuff is black and green. My first Hk91 had green furniture and my newest pistol a Walther P22 is black and green also.

If you can figure out what problems you have then you will be able to overcome them, and most of the time it is easier than you think, just takes a little work. It's when you cant find out what is wrong, that you're screwed, and that doesnt last long eventually you'll work it out. Even the best shooters find things they need to work on. Nobody says "Hey I'm perfect, there's no way to shoot better than this.."

The EZ loader will help. I've heard some people complain about them holding the bolt open at the wrong times. You might want to check with whoever installs it to get their input on any problems it might cause. The competition masters have an extended tab which helps as well, I dont know if that part is available from Remington or not.

It could be several things as mentioned. It's probably the main spring housing, but could easily be something else. If you have a friend with a 2011 you might see if you can talk him into letting you borrow some of his parts and swap pieces until you find out what fixes it. Or you could at least compare pieces until you find one that doesnt look right.

nice pics

If your goal is to have fun and not be out a lot of money start with production. It is the cheapest way to get started and you are more likely to be up against other beginners at your local range. Plus all scores are minor so 9mm will be as good as anything and again it will be cheap. If you really want to shoot with a 1911 then buy a nice $700 or so single stack .45 and shoot limited 10.

They dont have to be from the same manufacture. Cylinder and Slide makes a nice set ready to go. Their sear doesnt have the extra relief angle, but still works great without it. I think they sell for around $150, but that might save you some labor costs of fitting the other parts together (aka triggerjob).

If you are a DIY'er one of the Wilson Combat Videos from Brownell's covers it pretty well. I think it is the 3rd video. Basically you "peen" the rails down with a small hammer, then pinch the slide with a vise etc to take out side to side play. There's more too it than that, but it's pretty hard to describe on the internet, once you've seen the video you'll figure it out. Probably be better if you had a cheaper pistol to practice on, it would be a shame to bust the slide etc on the pistol you have now.

You have to get a digital video recorder with your dish, I think Dish Network calls it DVR or something like that and DTVs got TIVO. I dont even watch live TV anymore. I just record everything so I can skip out all the commercials.

If you do decide that it needs to be lapped, take it completely apart and while you are lapping only move the slide back and forth where it is tight. No use in running the slide back and forth the entire length if it is just snug in one spot. You could cause it to be loose at the ends by removing material from those areas. JBs bore compound is really mild so you probably wouldnt hurt anything, but it could happen.

Your 3rd problem sounds to me like either the feed ramp wasnt cut right or the barrel isnt linking back like it should. Hard to say without looking at it. Even if it is polished, if the ramp's angle isnt done right it can cause the rounds to bind. A couple of my friends load their .40 rounds about .060" long and say they feed better. I've only shot factory ammo in the pistol I built for myself and it feeds fine.

Wait until the Cobra comes out it'll have much more power. I have a 96 Cobra. I'd like to upgrade to an 06 Cobra when they come out, but I also want a 930 or Testarossa. I've got a few bikes too, one of 'ems a CBR1000RR

I've shortened a lot of FAL barrels. Usually you can go down to 18" without modifying the gas port, if you go down to 16" typically the gas port needs to be opened up to about .118 or so. That will vary some rifle to rifle due to gas tube wear, recoil spring drag etc. I've also shortened factory length FAL barrels down to the short gas system that DSA sells. It requires machining a sleeve to go onto the barrel and setting the gas block 3" back. I have a post sample machine gun that I modified to the short gas and added a folding stock to. It is pretty tough. My prices for FAL work are on this page http://www.investmentgradefirearms.com/services_FAL.htm

Probably depends as much or more on the firearm than the caliber. An STI 2011 with a full dust cover, bull barrel, etc will have noticebly less recoil than a single stack. If you are talking about the same firearm in different calibers there isnt a lot of difference in recoil between .40 and .45. It seems to me that a .40's slide is going to move faster and feel "snappier" than a .45, but a .45 will probably have more push to it and want to come up higher. Sort of like comparing torque and horsepower in a car. The .40 has more horsepower and the .45 has more torque.