CSEMARTIN

Les Baer uses Kart barrels. (I am 99.9% sure that is an accurate statement) I asked Doug Koenig several years ago who made the most accurate .45 barrel. He's done a lot of testing with a fixture Cominolli made and the Kart barrel is the most accurate .45 ACP barrel.

This will be my first trip, and I'm not entirely sure what to expect. I just feel like it's something I should do. Since these Vets are getting up there in age, there is always a (potential) need for physicians on these trips. The gentleman that called me at my home tonight sounded genuinely thankful that I had applied to go with them. I'm the one that should be thanking them. This is a great honor for me, and I am feeling pride I've never felt before. I don't know how to explain it. I think this will be a trip I will never forget.

I've been talking about doing it for a long time, and I finally applied to go on the Honor Flight as a Guardian and escort a WWII Veteran to see the WWII Memorial in Washington. We're going on 9/14, and I feel very priveleged to be a part of this experience.

Very Nice! Great job!

You might want to start with a class and learn how to run a mill first.

Call Barry @ http://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/site/1478157/ Buy one of his refurbished Bridgeports. Get an X-axis powerfeed and a 2 axis DRO. You can also pick up a good used Kurt vise off of eBay for around $125-150 bucks.

Have any of you guys had to shim out the primer slide stop, and if so, how far out did you shim it? What did you use?

Is there any published data on how long the primer slide should be? I'm wondering if I just need to mill off a few thousandths? Does anyone know how much a new primer slide costs? I might need one. Now that I've figured out a way to involve my Bridgeport in this project, I'm getting excited about it again. The guys at Dillon might not be too happy with me, but that'll teach them to send me a machine that doesn't work.

Not that I'm doubting your ability as an engineer, but I'm starting to think this machine needs a Catholic Priest.

Thanks Dick, but it's a little early for champaign. Just when I thought I had everything running, it did it again. I'm still not getting the primers to drop into the slide consistently. I called Dillon today and Gary suggested I shim the primer slide stop a bit and change the 3/8" tubing on the primer slide. Is it possible that this spring is out of adjustment? See pic below.

That makes sense Jim. Thanks.

I tore the machine apart and cleaned everything. It was surprisingly easy to take this machine apart. There was quite a bit of crap on the primer slide and I found a burr on the frame that the primer slide was catching on. I filed that burr off and got everything back together. Everything is running smooth now. One question, now that I've had the tool head off, is there any special way to adjust the tool head so it lines up better with the shellplate? When I pull the handle down, I noticed the toolhead is lining itself up with the shellplate and frame. I thought the shellplate was moving a little more side to side than I noticed before. I couldn't find anywhere in the manual where it talks about this. I just lowered the toolhead and tightened the 15/16" bolt. Thanks for all the help guys.

My wife and I caught a television commercial tonight about joining the military. We had a discussion about how we would react if one of our kids came to us and told us he/she wanted to join the military. Still though, I can't imagine what you are going through so I won't pretend that I do. I sincerely hope your boy makes it home alright and soon.

I'm still fighting with this machine...... Clearly, the problems with this machine go much deeper than a plastic tip on the end of a primer tube. I think it's time to tear this apart and really get into it.

Chris, I hope you don't think I was trying to steer you in a wrong direction. The press we're talking about in this thread isn't for beginners. The press I suggested you get in much less complex, and I'm still willing to help you set everything up.

You think it's funny to laugh at people in emotional turmoil? I don't get how this is funny?

Yes, I do that. I know it's unnecessary, but I can't keep from doing. It's my OCD issues.

How did they get smushed?

That was strangely entertaining.

I received word from Dillon via PM on the forum and friend that has a lot of experience with the 1050. The concern over the brass tip is there is no flexibility. When the primer slide is moving back and forth, if there is anything in the primer cup, the primer could ignite on the brass tip because it might not clear the tip. Also, if the swager is not set up right, the primer can get smushed up and go back on the slide. With the plastic tip, the tip just gets torn up. With the brass tip, the damaged primer can ignite on the brass tip.

I'm thinking the brass tip is the way to go. Thanks for the update Action Pistolero. I also clear out my primers when I'm done with a run so I'd also like to know that the priming system is 100%. Besides, I have had the machine goof me up even when I add more primers when the alarm goes off. There is something happening when there a few primers left. Is it a weight issue? I put a 45 case on the top of the primer rod and that has worked great with my 550 and 650. Does it need more weight with the 1050? Maybe I should glue on a 230 grain bullet. Nevertheless, I still can't believe these problems even exist in the first place given the sheer number of very experienced reloaders having these same problems and the fact that Dillon has had so many years to fix it. I'm not bashing Dillon. I love the company and their support......just saying. I also wonder why Dillon went with brass on the 650, but went with the plastic tips on the 550 and 1050. I'm also wondering how common it is to have a primer detonation with the 1050? And how serious is it when it does happen? What is the risk of injury? The impression I get is that it's just a matter of time before one goes off. The guy I spoke with at Dillon yesterday seemed concerned that using a brass tip could increase the likelihood of a primer detonation and made a point of telling me they wouldn't warranty the machine. I was also confused by that statement because the 1050 doesn't have a warranty in the first place. And then when I asked him if it had happened, he said he had never heard of it happening. So then....I thought to myself after the phone call was over, why did he mention that in the first place? Why bring up something as a concern that he had no knowledge of ever happening? I'm perplexed by this.

not telling....

Cool....please let us know.

I just sent a PM to dillon (on the forum). When I hear something, I'll post it up here. Maybe this is the fix to all of our problems?

I talked to Dillon again today, and we think it's the tip. I switch it out again until I find one that will work. I like the idea of using a brass tip. In fact, I just called Dillon when I read jmorris' post. At first, there was a lot or resistance from the gentleman I spoke with. I told him I was having all kinds of trouble with the plastics ones and asked about the brass tip that's used in the 650. He said they have looked into it in the past and Dillon decided not to do it. I pressed the issue and couldn't get him to give me a reason why. All he said is that if there was a primer detonation, they wouldn't warranty the machine. I asked if there was ever a primer detonation caused by the brass tip, and he told me that he had never heard of that happening because he didn't know of anyone using the brass tip. So....I ordered one. They're ten bucks.