Blackstone45
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Posts posted by Blackstone45
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6 hours ago, George16 said:
The FCD swages the bullet down to .355”.
That's probably bad? If I recall correctly, the 125gr polymer coated bullets I'm loading have a diameter of .356 or .357
I did notice that a couple of my bullets appeared to be tumbling downrange.
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Thanks for all the replies so far.
I'm currently loading on a Dillon XL750 with all Dillon 9mm carbide dies. I used to load on a single stage press with Lee dies. I took the rounds that were failing and put them through the Lee factory crimp die, and that has fixed them. I definitely feel some significant resistance when I put the rounds through the FCD. I think the FCD fully resizes the case, whereas the Dillon crimp die just crimps the neck? After checking the round after it's been through the FCD, I can see clear marks near where the bullet bulges out the case below the neck. I'm now worried that the FCD might be deforming the bullet when it resizes the case.
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14 minutes ago, George16 said:
To the trash pile they go.
Is this the trashcan or the practice ammo pile? I wouldn't mind throwing away just the cases, but it's finished rounds that are being gauged
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About a fifth of my rounds are not gauging, the rim ends up poking out of the gauge (not my image, but indicative of the issue).
These rounds plunk fine in my CZ and SIG P210 barrel. I used a marker and found that the round is getting caught above the rim. From what I've read, it's an issue with case bulge at the bottom where the resizer can't reach. Do you guys experience this too, and how do you deal with it? It hasn't been a problem until this weekend when I had a malfunction. I couldn't diagnose it as I was on the clock, but I think the round didn't chamber and the gun didn't go into battery.
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Looks like Eemanntech now have Redback springs https://dealer.eemann-tech.com/en/718-phoenix
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How far do you guys disassemble your gun down to before cleaning with the brake cleaner?
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Shots going low and left for a right handed shooter is a sign that he is milking the gun with his firing hand, causing shots to be pushed in that direction. Try telling him to relax his firing hand a bit, and squeeze harder with his support hand to compensate.
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I had one squib that I almost didn't catch. I think the recoil and noise felt normal, but I was probably wrong. My next shot went click. I racked the slide and out came a case covered in black soot. I thought this was odd, then decided to carry on. But at the last moment, I thought I'd better check the barrel, and I'm glad I did. The bullet far down the barrel enough to allow another round to chamber. I inspected case, and the primer strike mark was very shallow. I'm still not certain what caused the squib, but I suspect the case wasn't fully resized, the bullet might have come loose, and so the ignition didn't generate enough pressure. Hence the very sooty case.
Now had this have occured in a match, I almost certainly would have sent another round down the barrel. I would've just assumed the case didn't eject for whatever reason, but wouldn't have had the time to look closely at the case. My gun is a Shadow 1, but I can't remember if the hammer was fully cocked. Definitely seems strange if the gun cycled enough to cock the hammer, but didn't eject the case.
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4 hours ago, KommBat said:
I can not confirm that.
We have tried every ammo brand we could get our hands on and never run into a single problem with any of our guns.
As for bullet weight... 2 of my boys like 145/147gr, one just changed to 130 and I rather like light bullet weights. 115 is great but I also shot 124gr S+B bulk box ammo.
What we don’t recommand is this MaxxTech ammo. We belive that it is unsafe.
it’s the Indian, not the Arrow
this is defenatly the downside of the Redback. You can’t blame the gun anymore
cheers,
Rob
Thanks as always. Yes I've run about 400rds total, a mix of Geco, Fiocchi and Magtech through the Redback and haven't had any stoppages. Maybe Lee at ASL was just trying to sell me more Fiocchi
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Handled a loaded magazine while in the safe area. Luckily nobody saw, but I've been very careful and it hasn't happened again.
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Hi, I think I've seen you post this on the IPSC Facebook group, it's good stuff, thanks for the content
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14 hours ago, Zerofade said:
I run 147 in my Redback.
I remember one of the guys at the factory told me that it could be a bit picky with regards to ammo. How long do you load your rounds?
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11 hours ago, KommBat said:
Great, I would like to know and see the DK Holster. I know that there is a decent guy makeing Kydex rigs. I belive its DKYX. They made me a great TQ holder.
I have started with the Guga Ribas Race Holster. It is safe and fast but the adjustement is takeing some time. Now run the Guga Ribas Neo. Ist Looks funny but it is my Favorit now. I just like „closed“ Holsters more than Open race Holsters.
cheers,
Kommbat
I bought this one: https://bjorntactical.com/product/pro-competition-holster/
Again, I haven't been able to try the gun in the holster yet because of the pandemic and not being able to travel to Switzerland
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1 hour ago, Zerofade said:
I tried a DAA Alpha-X with a RedBack insert. I don’t like race holsters though, I eventually had a holster made by a local guy that builds holsters. It’s very simple, but it works great. I have heard of others using the Guga Ribas Neo GX holster, I don’t have any experience with it though.
I got a Guga Ribas universal closed holster myself, it's ok but it feels a bit blocky. I ordered a custom one from Denmark, but haven't been able to the gun to test the holster.
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18 hours ago, Zerofade said:
My local supplier had a decent stock of parts when I wanted them. Also, this winter I decided to build a decent parts inventory just for myself. I sent an email of parts numbers and quantities, I had my full order in less than 2 weeks (shipped from the factory to my supplier, then forwarded to me). The cost of the parts was very reasonable as well. I bought stuff I likely won't ever use, but I like being prepared!
What kind of parts did you get? I'll be visiting the factory at some point and will likely pick some up direct.
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2 hours ago, KommBat said:
Hi Blackstone, sorry for the late response.
The Factory recoil spring is 15lbs AFAIK.
I like a 11lbs and 10lbs spring shooting 115 and 124gr ammo.
I would not go low as 8lbs, unless you shoot some realy slow and heavy bullets.
Get yourself a set of CZ recoil springs with different weights and give it a try.
How did you got along with the shortened 1911 hammer spring?
AFAIK you can´t use a CZ hammer spring.
I hope EEmann is coming out with a full line of Redback springs.
There is also a "competition trigger set" in the pipeline, but Covid has slowed down everything.
Have you made it to Interlaken?
Cheers,
Rob
HI Kommbat, thanks for this information. No unfortunately I haven't been to Switzerland since 2019 because of Covid. So my gun has been stuck there this whole time. Hoping to go this summer for the Eidgenössischen Schützenfest. I'll be sure to get a set of spares off Armin.
With the 11lb recoil springs, do you install any recoil buffers?
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On 9/12/2020 at 3:31 PM, mvmojo said:
Au Contraire! I check every case for powder with a video camera pointed down into the case and a monitor right next to the case (on a Dillon 1050). At least I "thought" I checked every case! But, after loading hundreds of thousands of rounds over many years it finally happened. I was having some press problems, had to back up and fiddle with the press, etc., and even though I thought I was being super diligent, somehow one slipped by. Mea Culpa. Fortunately the RO screamed STOP (and I heard him and obeyed) when he heard a primer only bang. Bullet was about 2" into the barrel. No damage, but definitely a lesson learned. When having press problems, stop everything, unload every station, figure out the problem and fix it rather than trying to fix on the fly!
Interesting, did the primer-only detonation have enough power to cycle the slide? I guess in the heat of the moment, the natural instinct is to "tap rack and bang" anyway.
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19 hours ago, Paulie said:
Do you wet tumble like me?
likely culprit?
I do wet tumble, but I let my brass dry for a LONG time. Still, can't rule out that being the culprit.
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19 hours ago, Paulie said:
I had a squib on the last round of the last magazine I shot at practice today.
I was packing up, so I showed clear (for myself) prior to casing the gun and a soot-covered piece of brass came out.
Bullet was 1/3 of the way down barrel and would have chambered another round. I might of had a ka-boom on the first round of first stage tomorrow.
After I cleared I shot a 10 round group to make sure it was functioning.
First squib. Hope it’s my last!
Nearly the same thing happened to me. Recoil and noise all seemed normal. Gun "cycled" enough to cock the hammer, but didn't eject the case. Gun went click. Racked out a soot-covered case. Almost carried on with a new magazine, before I decided to check the barrel just in case. Glad i did, bullet was also lodged 1/3 way down the barrel.
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On 1/2/2021 at 7:16 PM, IVC said:
There is a big confusion between "flinching" and "anticipation" (driving the gun) on follow-up shots.
Flinching is when you don't have the correct trigger control and cannot execute a slow trigger press in accuracy mode. One can argue that flinching is also if you cannot execute a fast pull-through trigger pull, but I personally would call it a "grip and trigger pull issue" rather than flinching. If you can do both, i.e., you can shoot accurately (enough) in bullseye mode, and, you can take the sight picture and on timer pull the trigger in about 0.2s or less without missing, say, the upper A zone at 15 yards, you don't have a problem with flinching.
What happens when you start shooting fast follow-ups is something quite different. There is extensive coverage of this issue and it takes central part in all advanced shooting books, goes hand-in-hand with calling the shots and it's usually confusing to both understand and master. I believe Stoeger (and others) call it "predictive shooting," where you don't have enough time to do the usual cycle of "aim, confirm sight picture, pull the trigger." Instead, you're pulling the trigger as you *know* the gun will get back into position and you are *confirming* good hits via "shot calling."
What helped me understand the concept was trying to figure out how to explain it to others, so I use a visual of "shooting a fully automatic firearm." Do you aim when shooting full-auto? Of course. Are you going through the process of "confirm sights, pull trigger, follow through?" Of course not. As long as you hold the trigger down you are in a follow-through mode, where you're holding a bucking gun on target as the bullets fly. The main goal is to prevent it from "climbing," where each shot puts it higher. Instead, you put a steady and correct pressure into it to keep it "on target." (And, you *identify* shots as they are fired, so you know if you missed any.) Now, this pressure can be quite passive, where you let your body and posture passively return the gun to where it needs to be, or you can "lean into it" to keep it where it needs to be. If there is a misfire as you're leaning into the gun, the muzzle will slightly dip and it will look like a flinch, but it's not.
So, trying to fix driving the gun with the techniques for preventing flinching is useless. It's not the same problem and it's not the same cause. That's why people get frustrated when they are way past the flinching phase, yet they pull some shots low and left in competition or training.
I think this describes me perfectly. When shooting doubles, I've caught myself myself freezing on the trigger on the second shot, and noticing my gun dipping down. But it's not a jerky dip down, as you would see in a real flinch, it feels like a smooth motion as if I was steadily wrestling the gun back down from recoil. The general method for fixing this seems to be to grip less hard with the strong hand, and make up for it with more weak hand grip?
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8 hours ago, 1911in9mm said:
Where are you at charge range, with 124 grain? From what I’m seeing 3.9 to 4.4 grains looks like my ladder.For Ba9 1/2 using 125gr coated bullets, my final load is 3.9gr, OAL 1.08" for an avg velocity of 1030fps
They're loaded that short because I'm shooting a CZ SP-01 Shadow, and also because the bullets are conical nose ones
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I use 9 and 91/2, but the load data they publish on their website is pretty far off.
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The primary optic on my rifle is a Primary Arms LPVO and I have an RMR on an Arisaka offset optic mount. The Arisaka mount lets me mount the red dot at either a 35 degree or 45 degree angle. 45 degrees is the standard, but I do like the 35 degree option as it lets me maintain my cheek weld. The main issue with the 35 degree angle is that the windage turret of my scope obscures about the lower left quarter of the red dot. I'm wondering if this reduced field of view might be a problem or if it's an acceptable tradeoff.
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17 hours ago, MemphisMechanic said:
(If you’ve ever wondered why a veteran RO might hold the timer behind his back, now you know.
)
I always thought it was so that the scorer can see the time, but no reason why it can't be both!
Rounds not case gauging
in 9mm/38 Caliber
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I don't think it's a sizing issue anymore. I resized 20 cases, and they all dropped into the gauge perfectly. But after I loaded them, a couple ended up like in the picture. I suspect it's the bulge at the base of the bullet. The crimp is at 0.377" so I don't think that's the issue. I'll give my pistol barrels a good clean and then plunk test all of the "failures". Sounds like an issue that's just inherent to coated bullets and mixed brass.