Blackstone45
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Posts posted by Blackstone45
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Thanks for all your replies. I do have the Armanov click adjustment knobs on both measures, so I guess I'll stick to recording the settings on that.
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10 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
As an example, here are 3 different powder funnels that can be used in a Dillon RL1100. However, each one requires a different vertical adjustment of the die AND powder measure to get the desired results.
The Armanov quick-detach is simply an easier way of removing the powder measure, and replacing it, such as when your emptying powders or switching powders. The die/funnel vertical settings will not need changed/adjusted as long as your using the same, exact powder funnel case expansion requirements.
9 hours ago, ddc said:The quick detach system let's you change dies quickly but you still have to install and/or remove the powder funnel from the die do you not?
The fact that you have a quick detach system doesn't change that unless I'm completely misunderstanding your setup.
Do you have two dies and each has it's own funnel?
Or do you have one die and you have to remove one funnel to install the other?
I am not changing the die or the funnel. Only the powder measure itself. The reason is because I have two different loads for 9mm, and I don't want to keep adjusting the powder throw when I switch between the two loads. So I have two powder measures set to drop different amounts of powder.
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6 hours ago, ddc said:
Do they have exactly the same profile? Are they exactly the same length?
How do you get them in/out of the die without affecting the adjustment of the die?
I'll have to check the profile.
But I have a quick-detach system by Armanov that lets me easily lift them off the die.
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I have two Dillon powder funnels. When attached to the expander die, they seem to expand the case mouths differently depending on which one is installed. No other adjustments, for example to the expander die itself. Is this expected?
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Any indication if a side charger will be available for custom builds?
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13 hours ago, 42Danis said:
I will be sighting it in at, I believe, 25 yards, for best use between USPSA & Steel Challenge.
Pics:
Important Parts List:
Parts:
Rainier Arms Ultramatch 10.7”
Maxamundi Compensator + 6” shroud p&w
Smoke composites carbon fiber handguard
JP short stroke enhanced bolt
Kynshot SS Buffer + Sprinco Orange
Elftmann PCC trigger
Vltor A5 buffer tube
Cerakote by SC ARMS
Angstad upper & lower receiver
AEMS Optic
Just out of curiosity from a complete PCC novice, why go for a short barrel + long shroud, as opposed to just a longer barrel?
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I've got one ordered, but it'll have to be a custom job with the barrel cut down to 8" (plus the compensator). Any ideas if the shorter barrel might interfere with the operation of the roller delayed action?
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I wet tumble only. One pass with just water and steel pins to remove most of the gunk, then 1 hour with detergent and some citric acid. Rinse and leave to dry. I deprime with a hand deprimer while I watch TV.
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10 hours ago, mule169 said:
Not sure what happened but after giving it a deep clean and firing it again, no issues. I did go to a 10lbs spring but unsure if it is related or not.
I had a similar issue with some reloads, occasionally the round would not chamber fully, and would get jammed pretty hard. Definitely wasn't an overall length issue. Hasn't happened in the last 200 rounds though. I load 125gr coated bullets at about 130PF and run a 10lb recoil spring.
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On 3/27/2022 at 7:38 AM, KommBat said:
Hi Mule, could you please get a bit more into details about your FTFeed?What recoilspring die you use?
Do you put too much pressure on the side of the slide with your Supporthand thumb?
We shoot the Redback in the Team since 2018 and had no replicable problems. We shoot reloads and factory loads 115-147gr with 9-11lbs springs.
If I use a light spring and don’t clean the gun for approximately 2000rds, the slide becomes a bit „sluggish“. But lub or cleaning helped always.How about the big brands? Do they also make problems?
Please keep us tuned to your issues.Rob
What recoil spring would you recommend with 124gr 130PF loads?
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Redback 2 is mostly that it comes optic ready I think.
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20 hours ago, bigdave24 said:
Does anyone know if there is any smaller option for LH safety on the Redback? I’d really prefer not to grind it.
Yes the factory has a small/slim left hand safety lever (and conversely a large right hand safety lever). You will probably need to contact a local distributor to see if they can order it in.
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10 hours ago, AHI said:
Did you try a longer oal yet?
I've loaded 50 to 1.125" and just need to test them.
9 hours ago, Chappytactical said:I know CZ's can be real picky with certain polymers but then I've seen some run great with them too! Do you have any FMJ's you can load that are the same profile?
No FMJs unfortunately
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10 hours ago, HesedTech said:
The bulge is from the heavier bullets with a blunt OGIV (nose profile) being deeply seated in the brass. It bulges the lower part of the case, especially with CBC brass. Chambers have different tolerances amongst guns. My Tanfoglios are slightly larger than Glocks but have a shorter throat or rifle landing. I can load fatter but not longer for the TF than a Glock. My PSA 9mm PCC has the shortest and tightest chamber of anything I own.
Again, we load for the guns we shoot, and all rounds should easily and smoothly chamber and then drop out when tilted upside down. If you have to force or apply pressure to load or extract it then it is too tight and you need to work on your load.
If you peruse the forum most reloaders (if not all) use a sizing die which slightly undersizes the brass. A Lee "U" die and the stock Dillon dies are such. You will also notice most set the crimp, not by size, but by the mark it leaves on the bullet, which should be hardly noticeable.
Hope this helps, but you really should search the forum because all these things have been discussed many times over.
And no the round should never fail to chamber easily and a heavy recoil spring is not a fix for badly prepared and loaded rounds.
I do use Dillon 9mm dies, and do have quite a pronounced coke-bottle effect. I'm loading with coated bullets that have a diameter of .356
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2 hours ago, Chappytactical said:
What type of projectiles? FMJ's? Polymer? Etc
Polymer coated
1 minute ago, Farmer said:Is the chamber clean? I mean really clean? If you’ve been shooting lead there could be some lead blow back in the chamber causing Some rounds that may have slightly thicker brass to stick.
It should be clean enough. The gun is relatively new (only 2000 rounds through it) so possibly still needs to be shot in?
49 minutes ago, HesedTech said:As people read this thread don't forget the issue is a stuck round, one which won't chamber completely.
If this is true it isn't a feed issue, it's a quality of reload problem. OAL, or a case bulge are the only two things which may cause this. Of course the chamber could be so fouled they get stuck, but I doubt that is the problem.
Answers to these questions may help sort it out:
1. Bullet profile, weight, and size, i.e. .355, .356, .357, .358.
2. Which brass manufacturer is getting stuck?
3. What reloading equipment/tools are you using? dies, press, etc.
As has been previously stated, a round which plunks shouldn't get stuck in the chamber.
Yes it's an adventure and challenge to perfect your reloading process.
Case bulge (Glock?) is a possibility I suppose. Out of curiosity, if you slowly ride the slide forwards when chambering a round, is it common/expected for the round to fail to chamber? After all, the guns are designed to cycle quickly and violently. I've always been told to pull the slide back and let go, rather than easing the slide forwards for this very reason.
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1 hour ago, dansedgli said:
Unsure how it is possible to pass a plunk test then need to force it out like you describe. Are you sure you are plunk testing correctly?
Short ammo doesn't feed in my shadow 2, the nose sometimes hits the top of the chamber and wont go in but it will always eject ok once its in there.
I only need to force it out when it doesn't fully chamber. That same round will plunk, spin and fall back out just fine. But for some reason, when it's being fed from a magazine, it hits the chamber at the wrong angle or something and won't fully chamber.
57 minutes ago, Kletus said:Buy a Hundo Case Gauge from the pro shop. Every round I make gets run through the Hundo and then boxed in 100 rd boxes. It's an essential part of the reloading process. Any ammo issues show up quickly. The most important part isn't the actual dimensions, but being able to easily see/feel all of the primers so that you see an upside down primer or the worst case, a primer that isn't seated all the way and will cause a slam fire.
It's so easy a 7 year old can do it:
I do have a Hundo case gauge and all the rounds passed the gauge. Hence why my original question (which nobody seems to have read) was whether a round could be too short.
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25 minutes ago, HesedTech said:
Are you checking every round after loading?
I learned very early in the reloading process every single round has to be checked, especially if one is using a Lee progressive press.
All my ammo, not just pistol, get a chamber check after reloading. Reliable chambering is essential.
What length does, beside chamber OAL issues, to feeding is contribute to nose diving when coming from magazine.
I feel it's a bit much to be chamber checking every round, but perhaps for match rounds, it would give added reassurance.
Would nose diving be caused by a cartridge that's too long or too short?
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On 1/21/2022 at 10:25 PM, fluffybadbad said:
Did you ever get your aftermarket trigger to fit and function?
I had to get a gunsmith to help me fit the Eemanntech CZ ultimate trigger. It just needed a bit removed as it wasn't resetting in double action mode.
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2 hours ago, RangerTrace said:
Take your barrel out and plunk test your rounds. The may be too long or you may have some Glock bulge keeping them from seating. One other possibility is the case could be in front of the extractor rather than between the extractor and breach face.
The rounds are definitely not too long, hence why I asked if it was possible to load rounds too short for reliable feeding. Glock bulge is a possibility, so I proceeded to plunk 50 rounds that I had already loaded, and they were fine.
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I'm running a CZ Shadow clone. Occasionally, a round will not fully chamber (the slide ends up about 3mm out of battery) and the round gets stuck pretty hard (I have to grab the slide with my left hand and "punch" the grip forwards in order to rack the round back out). When the round comes out, it looks like the case neck was the bit that got caught. I crimp to around 0.378" so I don't think that's the problem. The rounds plunk just fine.
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Hi guys, I know that having a OAL that is too long for the chamber of your gun can result in rounds not chambering/feeding. But can having an OAL that is too short (within reason) also affect chambering?
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On 11/10/2021 at 1:58 AM, gundoc123 said:
yes, i used a dremel sanding drum and proceeded slowly and checked periodically. not too challenging. Initially tried filing, but it was too slow of a process.
So I also ordered an aftermarket Shadow 2 trigger, and realised that the Phoenix factory trigger bar pin is too big for the Shadow 2 trigger. Did you experience this too? In any case, I've ordered some OEM CZ trigger bar pins.
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I've got a CZ clone where I've got the double action to a nice weight. It's also smooth for most of the pull, but near the end, there's some pretty heavy stacking. What would be the part(s) that might need polishing or even changing out altogether?
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3 hours ago, gundoc123 said:
Blackstone,
Happy to hear! When the disconnector arrives, it will likely be too thick to fit in the hammer strut assembly. I removed material on the left side of the disconnector to ensure proper fitment to hammer and trigger bar. What does the cz competition disconnector do to the reach for the DA pull?
Unfortunately I don't know, the manufacturers don't say anything about the DA trigger reach, only the SA pre-travel: https://www.ipscstore.com/en/cz/8359-eemann-tech-competition-disconnector-for-cz-shadow.html
Noted about the disconnector being too thick. So just have to sand it down until it fits?
Replacing safety on Phoenix Redback
in "Other" & Pistol Comparisons
Posted
It took me a bit of effort to push the spring and plunger into the safety so I could push the safety back into place.
I think the right side safety is held in place by the left side safety.