Blackstone45
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Posts posted by Blackstone45
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Is it possible to do dry fire splits of 0.2-0.3s without any noticeable movement of the sights?
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lol didn't realise this was a bump. Antny seems to enjoy his old threads
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Focus on the front sight, equal light, equal height. A common mistake is people start their aiming with the sights aligned, then look past their sights trying to chase the center of the target. Then when the shot breaks, the sights were no longer aligned. Just accept that you can't hold absolutely still, let the sights circle around the middle of the target, but focus on ensuring they stay aligned at all times. Misaligned sights will throw a shot off much further than any natural drifting of your gun.
My shooting background is primarily in slow precision fire at 10 to 50 metres, beginning with air pistol and then cartridge pistol. I've only taken up practical in the past few months.
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I do cam my wrist, but have eased off it slightly in favour of tilting both hands inwards towards the gun. Might be a matter of my wrist/arm strength in my support hand, as I have difficulty camming it as well as applying pressure inwards and squeezing hard.
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Doesn't having a really heavy recoil spring cause the gun to dip after recoil? The issue I'm currently having is that the gun tends not to come all the way down after recoil.
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On 15/04/2018 at 2:00 AM, himurax13 said:
I would take the DPMS and toss it over my shoulder and install a CGW SP01 guide rod and the yellow 11# recoil spring.
I can assure you that your gun will track for you quite a bit faster and more consistently.
Sent from my VS987 using Tapatalk
If I'm going to be shooting a mix of 9mm factory ammo, would the 11lb spring be best for this?
As for the guide rod, one of these things? http://www.ipscstore.eu/en/cz-75-sp-01/2052-13-015239-cz-recoil-spring-guide-rod-steel-for-cz-75-sp-01-shadow-new-design-2000000020525.html
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I'm not at the stage where I reload ammo yet, so it's all factory 124g for me at the moment. My understanding is that the factory Shadow springs at 16lbs. But when I bought the gun, it had already been tuned by its previous owner. It came with two springs, and unfortunately I don't know their weights
Can't order from CGW as I'm based in the UK (in a region that permits handguns for target shooting).
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6 minutes ago, hitman_usmc said:
Incorrect. A heavier spring does slow the slide down but springs work both ways. A 10lbs spring being compressed also pushed back into your hand with 10lbs of force from the spring itself. Add reciprocating mass and the recoil from the round going off and it can add up quick. Many people try to lighten the slides to lower the reciprocating mass and run the lightest spring possible that will reliably run the gun. This provides a flatter shooting gun than a heavier spring.
Oh wow, looks like I got it completely wrong. Will change the springs back to the factory ones and see what happens during my next range trip. Thanks for the info.
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2 minutes ago, PatJones said:
Why? Pistols typically function better with standard springs in them. You're slowing down the slide before it hits the frame, just as you need that slide velocity to eject the spent case. It could also be contributing to the sight tracking weirdness you describe above.
Sorry, but the latter half of that doesn't make sense. The heavier recoil spring should reduce recoil by preventing the slide moving fully to the rear. So I don't understand why this could cause the sight tracking problem.
I haven't had any malfunctions since installing the springs, they have functioned perfectly in my gun.
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12 minutes ago, sfinney said:
What weight recoil spring are you using?
A stronger/proper grip on the gun (obviously) would help. Post a pic of your 2 handed grip?
I'm using a DPM triple recoil spring (https://dpmsystems.com/)
I'll try and get a picture of my grip tomorrow.
7 minutes ago, IHAVEGAS said:If you have Enos's book he talks about this a bit on page 43, I just fiddled with my grip until I found something that worked.
I'll read that section again, thanks.
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I'm currently at a block in my shooting, caused by an inability to have the sights return to target automatically after recoil without any input from myself. This is crucial to shooting good split times. When I shoot, the gun usually ends up tilted upwards slightly. I use a standard thumbs forwards grip. My grip strength is pretty weak, I struggle to close a #1 CoC gripper, and that's something I'm working on. However, to my knowledge, having the gun recoil back on target has little to do with the strength of the grip, but rather how the gun is gripped.
I use a CZ Shadow, which is a pretty big gun. I recently acquired a Sig P210 which is a bit smaller, and found the recoil more consistent on that. My hands aren't exactly small, so I don't think it's a physical limitation. Does anyone have any suggestions or idea as to what I'm doing wrong?
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Man I actually get the exact same thing when shooting plate racks. My hit rate just goes way off. I suspect it's to do with shooting reactive targets. I think my eyes end up looking past the sights and onto the target, expecting them to fall down.
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very sad to hear, RIP
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Even a change in the light conditions can cause you to see the sights differently, and therefore affect your point of impact.
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16 hours ago, gsc0tt said:
Just took TPC with ron avery, girpping the gun completely different now.
The main effect is a completely different sensation, that now makes every other piece of the fundamentals much easier and simpler.
yeah would love to know what you're doing differently now
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There's more than enough time to wait for the round to rise clear above the gun before you release the slide and make the catch.
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Yeah I've been running into a little problem since gripping super hard with my weak hand. My groups have started drifting to the left a little when I speed up. Working on grip strength training with CoC trainers.
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When pulling the trigger at some significant speed, I get some wobble in the sight alignment. It's nothing serious, but would make a significant distance out to 25m
It does seem to be caused by my middle finger moving slightly as well. Is it physically possible to train the trigger finger to move quickly without moving the middle finger?
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2 minutes ago, TennJeep1618 said:
With that gun, I'd recommend a DA first pull (if you're using it in Production), then simulate an SA pull for each additional target. Let the trigger out to the point where it would reset if the gun had cycled, then pull it back to the frame.
Okay, thanks for the advice! I suppose pulling the trigger back to the frame as fast as possible without disturbing sight alignment would be a good way to practice trigger discipline?
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5 minutes ago, TennJeep1618 said:
What kind of gun are you using?
I'm using a CZ 75 SP-01 Shadow (SA/DA with a thumb safety when the hammer is back)
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When practicing dry fire, how do you deal with multiple target setups? Obviously when dry firing, you will only get one true trigger squeeze. So for multiple targets, do you just simulate the trigger squeeze with as much pressure as would normally take to break the shot?
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You should definitely be able to feel a difference in the recoil. You may also feel a difference in that the trigger won't reset
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You should dry fire at least as much as you live fire
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I use a bit of blu tac (not sure if it's called the same in the states) to keep my glasses from slipping down my nose
Ammo Catching @ match
in Little things I've Noticed
Posted
I rack the slide and at the same time throw the gun up slightly, as if to help the round fly out as well. But I won't let go of the slide and begin to catch until I see the round has cleared the ejection port. I think that almost completely eliminates any chance of the round getting caught by the extractor.