Blackstone45
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Posts posted by Blackstone45
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2 hours ago, 11MM said:
No different that a catastrophic gun jam or any other equipment issue - should be corrected on the clock. My concern/question is what to do with the firearm. Grounding was mentioned above. Is that legal? What can you do with a firearm if holstering is not an option when you need to correct some kind of wardrobe malfunction?
10.5.3 in the rulebook
You can put a gun down during a course of fire, but you have to comply with a number of conditions. You have to maintain full contact with the gun all the way until it's on the ground (ie. no throwing or dropping it). You have to remain within 3 feet of it. And quite importantly, the gun has to be either unloaded (empty chamber, magazine out, action open) OR the firearm is in the "ready condition". So if loaded, the hammer should be down or the safety should be on. I could be wrong though with my interpretation of the rules.
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I guess a shooter should deal with this by safely placing the gun on the ground and then fixing the belt, then pick up the gun again and continue with the COF?
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1 hour ago, BoyGlock said:
Fun fact. If your draw is good then think of properly gripping the gun just before the beep to draw, more often than not, you will have a bad grip
Bit confused here. Are you saying that if you think of properly gripping the gun, you'll end up with a bad grip?
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That was the advice I was given in my first "official" IPSC match this weekend. I thought...how bad could a miss be? You just lose out on the 5 points you could have gotten for an alpha, right?
Well at the conclusion of the match (with 3 mikes), I found out that misses were actually penalised. I had thought you were only penalised for not attempting to shoot at a target. Just one of the many takeaways from my first match. I still came 10th out of 39 in my division, so I guess all those years of shooting experience helped somewhat.
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To my knowledge crimp just ensures the round will feed? So if it passes the plunk test, it's good to go.
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My first handgun was a second hand SP-01 Shadow which had been tuned by its previous owner with a competition hammer, trigger and competition sights.
I picked up a Shadow 2 earlier this year, and wasn't impressed. The single action trigger had noticeable creep on it (maybe it just needed a few hundred rounds through it) and the double action trigger was much worse than my tuned Shadow 1. This was rather disappointing since the Shadow 2 had been marketed as being competition ready out of the box.
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I also had a similar concern about a slight bulge in my loaded rounds. My friend told me it's because the dies are sized for the lowest common denominator, which is the thinnest brass expected.
Reloading is something we should rightly be overcautious about as newbies
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5 minutes ago, xdf3 said:
Can you link some? Last time I tried searching his name, I didn't find anything.
I'll try this C-clam grip, I hope it works as expected. In the video I watched it didn't seem to be really clearhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wDNZBhpE4Fc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXyAdbEXtFA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXXuUzNcZ_o
I struggle to believe that searching for "ron avery grip" gave you no results.....
I also don't want to come across as rude, but I think you have your priorities wrong if you're looking for a magical grip that will let you shoot 0.10 splits, when you're struggling to shoot groups at medium distances from your previous thread.
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I have a lot of difficulty focusing on the front sight with two eyes open, so I do the Stoeger-esque target focus on everything as well. If I'm shooting precision disciplines, I'll just use an occluder.
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The Vogel grip seems to be very physically demanding though, I think that's the main advantage of a c-clamp style grip in that it doesn't require you to brute force the gun down.
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8 hours ago, elguapo said:
You can try all the mickey mouse fixes already listed or you can do the job right (and permanently) in less than 5 minutes.
Oh this looks interesting, I have a few scratches on my CZ from the previous owner, I could take care of this as well
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My CZ SP-01 shadow front sight seems to have been dinged, and a bit of the finish has come off. As a result, the top left corner often LOOKS LIKE it's missing the corner, when in reality it's just the light shining off the now naked metal. What's the best method to blacken this? I've seen people using lighter-based sight blackeners. However, I've got a fibre optic road in my front sight, and don't want to risk melting it.
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I recommend this thread re: shooting very fast splits
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1 hour ago, xdf3 said:
Any video that explains C-clamp grip techniques? Is that from Kim?
There's this one from TPC
Also check out some of their other videos, including those by the late Ron Avery about wrist tension etc..
But Kim also explains it very well in his paywalled Recoil Management Series video
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Great thread, helped answer some questions I had recently about how I could shoot fast splits when my sights felt like they were taking an age to come back down
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There's no reason to rush when you're not on the clock.
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I also find it impossible to keep the sights still when pressing the trigger really quickly (like 0.3s splits speed). But the front sight doesn't drift by much, and never leaves the rear notches. This would make it an appropriate sight picture for close targets. It really does feel impossible to eliminate any sympathetic movement in my other fingers when I move the index finger at speed. I know one way is to grip the gun harder with the support hand, as that helps reduce any movement. However this seems to cause the gun to recoil up and to the right. I wish I could dedicate hundreds of rounds in a session to test the effects of different grip tensions etc...
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Perhaps it's a way of reducing fatigue if you use a very strong grip. But I think a lot of the more recent front-back C-clamp grip techniques, along with the pliable hands is aimed at not needing to deathgrip the gun.
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6 hours ago, Rnlinebacker said:
So the only division you'll see crazy splits like that is open. otherwise, the top guys are NOT shooting .15s on every target. They're calling shots and the splits are what they are but typically .20 or less.
Are you ready to shoot when the gun is ready or do you pin the trigger to the rear??
Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
I've been focused on seeing if my sights return to alignment, so I haven't gotten to the point of resetting the trigger mid-recoil. At least, I'm not doing it consciously yet.
Watching this video of Ben, he shoots close targets incredibly quickly.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MnjzVWQkgww
There must be a degree of manually helping the gun down, instead of just waiting for the sights to settle automatically?
Although having read his latest book, he does talk about not even looking at sights for really close targets.
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So I have my sights returning roughly to alignment by themselves about 90% of the time now. But it seems they take too long to do so (I'm talking about what feels like .30s splits). What kind of changes would help with this? How are the top shooters shooting <0.15s splits at close range
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1 hour ago, MixLord said:
It was an idea from Rob Latham.. and also JJ Racazza.
The idea is, to not think about pulling the trigger . We shouldn't think about it unless we're doing bullseye.. im not saying use poor trigger control. Start slow, work faster. Your either pushing it left, yanking or pushing straight back.
I'm sure you guys are better than me, thanks for the feedback..
Perhaps it's aimed at people who already know what a good trigger pull feels like
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2 hours ago, MixLord said:
Have you tried..
Just sitting on the couch, watching something you really like.. and , of course prepare the area and weapon for safe manipulation.. then, just watch your show/movie.. and while doing that, just rack and squeeze/push trigger back.. do this as frequently as you can.. going faster and faster. After a week of this, 1 hour minimum a day, you wont be thinking about the trigger.. just bring gun to eye quickly with great intention and push out, as soon as the front dot gets between your eyes path to target, fire.. do bill drills after you spend a week with the mental training.. you might be suprised.. could just be mental..
Dont look at the gun while watching the movie.. just rack, fire.. faster and faster.. it works
With respect, I think this is bad advice. Dry firing should be deliberate practice without distractions. Contrary to popular belief, repeatedly performing the same action doesn't necessarily mean you get good at it. How do you know you're actually squeezing the trigger correctly? You could end up ingraining a bad trigger pull instead.
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As others have said, that amount of movement on target is normal. You say there is no problem with your trigger pull and sight alignment. But you only know that to be the case in dry fire. In live fire, the target seems to be telling a different story. I've seen many people claim they're not flinching or jerking the trigger, and it's only when I load their magazines with a mixture of snap caps and live rounds, that they can see what's happening for themselves. I'm not saying that's definitely what's happening in your case, but at this stage, you need to find someone who can help you in person.
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1 hour ago, DKorn said:
I believe Hwansik Kim does as well.
I could be wrong, but from his latest Instagram video, he doesn't have his support index finger wrapped around the front of the trigger guard.
point of aim vs point of impact
in Handgun Techniques
Posted
It helps if you have a question.
My 9mm is sighted in for 25m, and at 50m, I find I have to hold just under the black on a standard 50m bullseye target