IHAVEGAS
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Posts posted by IHAVEGAS
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13 hours ago, Toolguy said:
Yes, the trigger pull gets lighter as you pull it. Essentially, it smoothly gets lighter and lighter till it's gone, but very controllable. If you go to the website, you can see what the trigger is doing in the video. I invented and built a new kind of trigger pull gage to show this. A regular trigger pull gage only gives the highest reading.
If you already have a 6# or under trigger, you won't be able to tell much difference with the new hammer. Don't change it.
This kit is for those who don't want to spend the time and money to send their gun off across the country for who knows how long. They can get the kit sent to them and have a great trigger by doing their own, or taking it to a local smith. It is also for gunsmiths who want to have an easy, good trigger job. This way, you don't have to be a Master Revolver Smith (not many left) to get a really good trigger.
Got it. Thank you!
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I don't fully understand the initial post. It reads like the pull weight can start at 7 lbs (with new springs and soft primers) and drops as you pull the trigger if I am reading it correctly.
My tuned & tweaked 929 is right at 5 3/4 # throughout the trigger stroke, so if I am looking at things right I really don't know which I could shoot better.
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1 hour ago, SGT_Schultz said:
Sometimes risky plans come with big rewards and even one more round can provide some extra confidence.
It is sort of neither here nor there, but after he won the world IPSC shoot B.Stoeger made the comment that he felt like he won out over others because he avoided risks, taking a safety shot on fast moving swingers and etc. Just thought that was interesting.
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6 hours ago, Boomstick303 said:
It made a difference at a couple of stages at nationals. A classifier was 24 rounds exactly and a couple of stages were in the 20 round count, where 24 made it acceptable to run the stage without worrying about a reload.
That is interesting. Planning for all 24 or nearly all seems more dicey than finding enough movement to allow a 'free' reload, not saying that it is (B class hacker here) but when I was shooting limited (20-21 in mag) I can't remember a stage that didn't allow opportunity to keep plenty of rounds in the gun.
Do the pros ever shoot their high capacity mags dry?
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How often does starting with 23 instead of 24 make any difference?
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I'll never understand why USPSA doesn't just put the r.o. course on video like the entire non shooting sports world has been doing with more complex subjects for the last 40 years or so. Many here have likely been to OSHA contractor safety training or other work related safety training, video training + someone generally knowledgable with the subject to do the short field verification just flat out works.
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13 hours ago, LmtdOne said:
So like the title implies, if I change the hammer spring out for a heavier one, is there any additional tuning required?
It is not tuning, but for what it is worth any time I fiddle with the firing bits I will start testing with 1 bullet in the gun and no mag in the gun. When something is not right and they go full auto that is exciting.
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18 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
No one knows that the pistol that killed an RO was so modified.
Somebody knows, but I can't find the information either. Seems very strange that this much of a basic detail would not be shared.
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19 hours ago, SouperMan said:
Some folks like the “security” of a firing pin block. I don’t really care, nor am I a pro enough shooter to feel the difference in the trigger.
I think we tend to take the non FPB guns, install extended firing pins, install reduced power firing pin springs, shoot the softest primers we can find, and then blame the manufacturer when the modified gun is no longer drop safe. Having owned both versions, I agree that the trigger on the FPB guns can be excellent.
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35 minutes ago, SGT_Schultz said:
I don't care how others define it.
+1
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The best option I have found to protect my hearing from the really crazy loud, body vibrating, minority of open guns is to stop working majors and hand off the timer at local matches.
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17 hours ago, AHI said:
Again If you have a problem using this Don't.
Personally I appreciate both suggestions for a fix on this thread, thanks to all.
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3 minutes ago, HOGRIDER said:
I just looked at the primer slide pic in the Manual..............."now" I'm thinking the mangled/damaged primer is being pulled back cause it's still/stuck in the primer hole of the slide.
Duh........
I think you are most likely correct.
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16 hours ago, HOGRIDER said:
You state above:
Now I'm wondering if there would be a safe way to take say, a spent primer, and demonstrate exactly how this can happen? Having owned/operated an RL1100 for just under 2 years, I have experienced upside down, crushed, and side-ways installed primers! But I have never had one drug back under the remaining column of primers! And I can assure you I respect the fact that I need to keep the priming system on my press clean and well maintained as a top priority!
What used to happen on my 1050.
1. Primer hangs onto depriming pin and pulls back into brass.
2. Primer is mashed by swagger , moron doesn't stop because he feels something wrong.
3. New primer gets mashed and pulled back into priming station, blue thingy gets mangled.
For what it is worth I have had one primer detonate in the press, made my right ear ring and startled me but that was it.
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13 hours ago, Hdiamond said:
Despite the flaws I do have a deep love for the '84 version,
The 84 version is the only movie I have ever walked out of, I am cheap and I really have to hate something bad not to suffer through until the end. I will say that it was not as painful for me as "The English Patient" though, which many enjoyed.
Hoping the new one is completely a different experience, loved all of the Frank Herbert Dune books and liked some of the newer ones.
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11 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
Which sight is made that way so I avoid it?
https://www.leupold.com/deltapoint-pro-fde-red-dot To the best of my knowledge there is nothing at all wrong with that type or brand of sight.
It would be interesting to ask CGW about actual base cut tolerances for typical sight construction (rounded - some type of coating over the aluminum, hollowed, etc, like the one in your pictures for example). I am going from memory here but I think CGW told me that the slight interference was expected and typical.
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9 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
If you can take in and out by hand it's not an interference fit, even if you have to wiggle it in and out. Even a small amount (.0001 - .0002") of interference will need either a temperature differential or some mechanical force to get things together.
What you have is still a slip fit, thought it might be very close. So close that the slightest misalignment will not let the parts go together.
Did you send them your optic? Other than dumb luck, that's the only way to get the pocket and/or the posts machined that close.
If the sight bottom was a solid piece of metal you would be on track.
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51 minutes ago, slavex said:
I've never seen a hammer spring really lose power, at least not after the initial set. I've got main springs in guns that have had hundreds of thousands of rounds through them and they still weigh out as expected.
My Tanfo production guns are good for about 10,000 trigger pulls before the lightest weight hammer spring stops reliably lighting off deep seated federal primers. CZ is a different animal though, so I was curious.
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15 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:
Direct milling HAS to leave a small gap between the front and rear of the optic and the slide cut. Otherwise there is no way to install and remove the sight, despite what anyone might have led you to believe.
Cajun gun works was a slight interference fit on my CZ compact, impressive actually, I do not know if that is typical.
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I had Cajun Gun works mill my CZ compact (picked a sight & went with direct milling I prefer less slide weight and a dot height closer to the iron sights height).
They did a great job.
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13 hours ago, Lightj75 said:
Which one ? the 8.5#
Was wondering how many trigger pulls the lightest hammer spring is good for before it gets weak enough to cause light strikes.
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S2 no decocker
in CZ
6 hours ago, yigal said:What cruelty.
DQ, and Open div.
Eventually the competitor was executed?
Ideally, eventually the competitor will get the right call, or no call.
I find discussions of this stuff, including devil's advocate questions or commentary, to be instructive.
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S2 no decocker
in CZ
15 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:I can't send a limited shooter who starts with a selective action pistol at half cock to open because there is no rule that I can cite that allows me to do that.
You can't construe a rule out of similar circumstances in a different division.
I don't disagree.
It took a while to get my head around why I can do the same thing with the same gun but it is only a penalty if I am using the gun for production. Since the production ruling is part of Appendix D4 rather than the main body of the rule book and spelled out very clearly, that explains that.
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26 minutes ago, Tunachaser said:
I have a 8.5# hammer spring in both my 9 MM SP-01 and BS, with ext. firing pin and have never had problem lighting off any of the primers in factory ammo. I have not tried them all and never any of the steel case ammo. YMMV
Any idea how many rounds/dry fires that spring is good for in the sp01?
Preferred Brass 9mm for CZ 75 SP-01
in 9mm/38 Caliber
Posted
+1 , have played with getting fancy (same headstamp) but with the CZ 75 variants I have not been able to find any reliability or accuracy improvement so I use whatever is cheapest. Have found several cases split over the years, likely from 9mm range brass that had been loaded major, those rounds shot fine.