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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

IHAVEGAS

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Posts posted by IHAVEGAS

  1. 21 minutes ago, 10mmdave said:

    How "tight" are the rounds in the moon clips you folks are using ?

     

    Winchester in the revolver supply clips that I measure at 0.044 is too tight for me to be able to use a BMT sooner/demooner, or at least to want to. The brass does turn freely after loading.

     

    Same brass with the 0.035 feels right to me, but maybe the real revolver gurus would want tighter.

     

    Got this in an email from David Olhasso, referring to the 9mm Super GP 100:

     

    I personally prefer TK .040 moons. I use RP brass and special TK moons cut to hold the RP brass properly. If I wasn't using RP brass, I would be using Winchester.
     
    The issue is, depending on your Crane length and b/c gap, you may not be able to use .040 without some modifications. I suggest getting.035 and .040 samples and determine which is best, or just resign yourself to using .040 and cut back the crane and barrel if necessary.
     
    -dave
     
     
     
    Would be interesting for me to try the TK Custom clips (likely would measure at 0.040 instead of 0.045). 
  2. 17 hours ago, Toolguy said:

    The Ruger rep told me that they make the cylinders the same hole spacing as Smith cylinders so the same speedloaders and mooclips will work in both.

     

    Just tested.

    With pristine 9mm Winchester white box these work in a 929 and Super GP100.

    https://www.revolversupply.com/moon-clips-extreme-9-mm-38-super-s-w-929-stainless-steel/

     

    They are listed at 0.040" and I measure them at 0.044. 

     

    These also work in both guns with the same pristine never fired ammo. 

    https://tkcustom.com/products/moonclips/ruger-8shot-supergp-100-035-b-s-9mm

     

    They are listed at 0.035" and I measure them at 0.035"

     

    With real world ammo the Ruger is damned particular, the most particular gun I have owned and by a margin. Full moon clips that check fine in the 929 may or may not be ok with the Ruger, anything that goes in the Ruger is a breeze in the 929. Am tempted to consider a roll sizer or having the cylinder reamed to match the hole diameters of the 929 (as noted above), passing a Hondo case gauge after being sized by a Lee U die is not good enough. I had D.Olhasso bob the hammer on my gun and ream the chambers deeper to accept longer ammo & 0.358's but maybe I screwed up by not asking him about increasing overall whole diameter as well. 

  3. 12 hours ago, Cuz said:

    What is the main problem with leading? Is it an accuracy, reliability, or safety issue?

     

    You tend to start throwing curve balls. 

     

    In Glock barrels leading is blamed for Ka-booms, the book "The Glock in competition" describes testing they did to explore why burst barrels were sometimes reported. With traditional rifling  I am not aware of a safety issue. 

  4. My super gp 100 so far (9mm).

     

    Disappointed that the chambers are a lot tighter than the 929, the moon clips I had for my 929 would not work for the GP and the brass needs to be darn near perfect. Anything that fits in the GP works easily in the 929.

     

    Trigger is more gritty than my 10mm GP100 and will bind in the fully rearward position on occasion. Working on that, have done the same polishing on both guns. Trigger is a gritty / clunky 7.5# , does not compare to the 929 and is noticeably more gritty than my 10mm GP100, working on it. 

     

    Had to send the gun back to Ruger to get the pawl replaced. First pawl would intermittently drop the plunger/cylinder stop too soon on a couple cylinders. Crappy that they sent the gun out that way, but they turned the gun around in 10 days so that was very nice. They emailed me on receipt of the gun and sent me lead time estimates and progress updates, without my asking, very nice customer relations experience. The demooner they ship with the gun is too large in diameter to work with spacing of the 8 shot gun ammo - not a great sign for attention to detail.

     

    Have not found a load that the gun likes, hard to find different bullets to play with right now. At the moment I can shoot better groups with my 4" 10mm GP100 and a lot better groups with my 929. 

     

    Fits my hand the best. 

     

    My 929 in comparison

     

    After I found it wanted 0.358's it stopped leading and it shoots very well. Trigger is a nice smooth 5.5 - 6#.

     

    Took S&W 4 months to fix a damaged crane. Am concerned that my gun will be a lemon in this regard, seems that the V of the crane lines up very marginally with the crane screw plunger and that allows for minimal contact area. While they had the gun it was impossible to find out anything regarding when they would have it back to me, very frustrating to try and get any info from S&W. 

     

    For a while every screw on the gun seemed anxious to come loose. Loctite has been employed. 

     

     

     

    For what it is worth. 

  5. 24 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    Like everything else, it’s situational and some common sense will sort out what you can honestly call, and cannot.

     

    And thank heavens we tend to be blessed with a big majority of honest shooters.

     

    "Dammit I did it again" is something you hear pretty often. 

  6. 33 minutes ago, MikeBurgess said:

    100% yes

    revos are almost like having (in this case) 8 different guns, when I crono ammo I am too lazy to write it all down and number chambers but I can see the repeating patterns when I review the velocities, some holes are faster than others.

     

    I have wondered about the consistency of indexing each chamber relative to the forcing cone. 

  7. 5 hours ago, Pnut said:

    This could alsk explain why when K shoot the .3565 I always get one or two flyers. At 25 yards they are off by an inch or so. 

     

    If it was me I would:

    Mark the two wholes that were smaller.

    Set two targets at the distance you are interested in.

    Shoot a few moon clips 6 and two at the targets. 

  8. 4 minutes ago, DKorn said:

    I might or might not be able to tell. It really depends on the array.

     

    I get what you are saying. Depending on what the array distance/viewing position/array spread/tired old ass/other things needing looked at/shooters back and shoulder,  allows me to see I usually think I know. However, the level of absolute certainty that I would require for calling a safety dq (for example) is usually not possible for me. 

  9. 33 minutes ago, MemphisMechanic said:

    What am I absolutely certain that I saw? If I’m positioned where I’m looking down the slide over his shoulder, and I can clearly see which target he’s aimed at? He’ll get an FTSA if I see him fire zero shots in it’s direction. I need to be able to see which target he is actually aimed at.

     

     

     

    In a tight array, particularly if there is a bit of distance involved, I don't think there has ever been a time when I could tell you I was absolutely certain that I knew which target the person was shooting at.

     

     

  10. 11 hours ago, SGT_Schultz said:

    They are not the same thing

     

    Certainly no reason that you can not choose to think about it that way. I assume you think of wear as weakening due to micro fractures from mechanical working, and realignment of the grain structure, which you can accelerate by compressing the spring for long periods, and by heating if you want to more significantly reduce tension as something else.

     

     You hand me a new 8" spring and a shortened to 7.75" spring and I view the shortened spring as showing an aspect of wear and the 8" spring as a new spring. Not important, just semantics. 

  11. 1 hour ago, Sean_Doe said:

    I’m using a lee factory crimp die. I pulled some bullets they still measured .356.

     

    Given that Speer and Montana Gold bullets are sold at 0.355, I am wondering what a good rule of thumb would be for 'swaged enough to cause a problem', realizing that beyond a rule of thumb it would likely be gun specific. 

  12. 11 minutes ago, Makicjf said:

    Tangentially, where could I locate a full length  yoke screw to sidestep the whole issue?

     

    For a 929 I pulled the plunger and spring out of the yoke screw & installed a piece of drill bit, cut to length and pointed to approximate the plunger tip shape. 

     

    For what it is worth, best I can tell is that on some guns the yoke V is better centered relative to the yoke screw than on others. If your gun is fitted a bit flakey (like mine) the plunger may just be contacting a minimal portion of the V and more susceptible to damage than another gun. 

  13. cz851.jpg.462a012667c52fc8d63d438732ea0d2b.jpgbrag1.jpg.f7ae0b17a53abff23e363948568163d7.jpgbrag2.jpg.e4c688853ef4f395b04f3f736343e143.jpg

     

     

    I do not know if all CZ85"s shoot this well or if that gun was a fluke. It had the CGW bushing in it but nothing else besides trigger work. 

    20 yards, the optic is the triangle style, was amazed both at the gun and at how well you could shoot using the tip of the triangle. 147 SNS TC 0.356

  14. 929.JPG.c55e3ed342f52ed060af874aec7c8f94.JPG

     

     

    I am not a great group shooter, particularly with a wheel gun shooting double action, and that is not the best group I've shot with the gun/load combination. It would be interesting to see what the gun/load is capable of with a better shooter or a ransom rest. 

    Anyway , 20 yards, 0.358 SNS (or Bayou have had same results) coated , S&W 929, Lee undersized die.

    The results I get are good enough for my purposes, the barrels do not lead (other guns are 0.356 though), theories aside I am happy with the U-die. 

     

    2bullets.jpg.26cf9b3813964eabd651b318df9de7e3.jpg

     

    Interesting I thought how well coating adheres (bullets fired into a tree). 

  15. 2 minutes ago, noylj said:

    The main reason to use them is because you can't seat a bullet coaxially with the case, so you get a case bulge where the bullet presses out on the case at the bullet base. Learn to seat the bullet properly and throw away the crutch.

     

    I use mine because in a 9mm wheel gun it prevents bullets from walking out of the brass and I have not found any negative performance results in any of my guns,  there may be other cures for bullets walking that I am not aware of.  

     

    I'm not sure that swaging the portion of the bullet that is not left exposed is necessarily a concern. As I understand it the base of the bullet needs to deform when you fire the gun in order to seal well enough to prevent gas blow by from creating leading (too hard of a bullet creates leading as does too soft), so I'm not sure that the gun knows if part of the bullet was swaged by the brass. 

  16.  

    1 hour ago, dmshozer1 said:

    When the RO is scoring a target that has two misses, he automatically added a failure to engage penalty.

     

    Interesting topic.

    At r.o. class the instructor will tell you that counting shots is a good habit.

    On a "very complex memory stage" the r.o. may know that you forgot a target (counting) and he may even know which array you were shooting when the target was forgotten (more counting), but as noted elsewhere the r.o. may not know which particular target you forgot until the scoring is being done. 

     

  17. I bought some 0.40 coated from a new local vendor and a few friends did also. We all had leading issues, the vendor said it had something to do with how he applied the coating and offered refunds.

     

    A major coated bullet supplier had a thermocouple failure that resulted in overcooking the alloyed lead. These leaded horribly also, the vendor stated that you could tell the problem batches by smacking bullets with a hammer and noting if they seemed brittle.  

     

    I've also got one gun sold as 9mm that will lead severely if you try to run coated through it that is less than 0.358 . 

     

    For what it is worth. 

  18. 17 minutes ago, iflyskyhigh said:

    “Price gouging” is a myth and the language of the left.

     

    When we are outside the bounds of human decency, buying up essential commodities (gas-food-water) during a crisis and reselling at 15 times cost for example, I can't think of a more accurate term. 

     

    For things that are not essential, ok. 

  19. 11 minutes ago, ChuckS said:

    Not really. A new spring will take a set the first (few) time(s) you use it.Then it will wear from cycles of use. This is what I have seen over the years and has been explained to me by a guy who makes magazine springs and an automotive engineer who designed compression springs.

     

    I don't know what you mean by "not really" we seem to be saying the same thing. If you prefer the spring to shorten through normal use rather than attempt to condition it statically that is fine, I just prefer to minimize how much the spring performance changes during use.  

     

    Can't find it at the moment but one of the spring manufacturers suggests testing their springs against competitors by placing one of each in a vice overnight and measuring shrink the next morning, then repeating the next night & etc, according to their add hype there is significant variation in how long it takes springs to reach a 'final' length and how far that is from the initial length. 

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