Greg in VA

What type of shooting are you looking to do? Greg in VA

Don't be afraid to take it all the way down, it's really simple to do and to put back together. I used to load for a police department on a 1050 and I took that one down so much I could do it in my sleep, and I really mean take it down, when I finished it was a bare frame. Remember to take some pictures before you take it apart so you can see what it's suppost to look like..... Greg in VA

Tom , I was replying to your comment of making them shoot a specific event with a specific gun: ie..Metallic must shoot Barricade.....Production must shoot Plates.....Open must shoot Mover. Let them pick the event they think (the team) will give the shooter and his/her gun the advantage. (Strategy)Some will choose to shoot the plates with the open gun because a missed plate is 10 points...if they choose that gun for plates then they must shoot the other two events with the other two guns...ie..barricade with the production ...mover with the metallic, or barricade with the metallic and mover with the production. I'm with Alan on dropping the usual restrictions on the team membership thing...I think pick up teams would be very cool. Greg in VA

I don't think a Division requirement should be included, let the team decide which event to shoot for each style of gun, that wil allow strategies to come into play on the selection of which guns to shoot what events with. Greg in VA

I would do it, but I would also like to see it as 1 shooter from each division: Open, Metallic, Production. Greg in VA

You can go the NRA web sight and look at the rule book, and print it if you want to. Greg

I use nothing but SLIP2000 products on all my semi-autos and revolvers. Greg

The problem I had with them was you had to shoot them so fast to get the accuracy you needed, If I remember it was around 1000 fps. I used AA#5. Greg in VA

Of all my revolvers only one will meet the weight.....it is my distinguished PPC revolver and my gunsmith had to make it heavier so it would pass at the Nationals. Greg

Getting a new rule book is as easy as going to the NRA's web site, and either ordering one or looking at the rule book online. I've shot revolver at the Cup for 6+ years and I started with a Stock 6" model 66 then moved to a Stock 586 with a 8 3/8" barrel. I have moved into the metallic catagory with a 587 heavy barrel that's 8" long and a very smooth and very light trigger, revolvers work great for the cup stuff. As far as stuff, a good holster I started with a 012 and moved to a speed comp holster. You will need 8 speed loaders and the usual safety gear. Greg in VA

I use Brownells D'solve in my cleaner at home..........the one I have at work I use Slip 2000 725 in it......for really tough stuff I open up a jar of the Carbon cutter and place the item in it and set it over in the cleaner and turn it on, it will clean a M249 gas manifold in about 20 miuntes........... Greg

I won't pick on someone just because his feet show on his drivers license photo. Greg in VA

A few years back their was an article in the Blue Press about a guy that used his 550 to load his ammo for a Bench Rest match, I believe he did quite well. Greg in VA

What are you looking for............. Greg

I did not want to start an argument, So I'm done with the .223 part of this post. I know that they are very busy making bullets as fast as they can and are trying to keep up with orders, I don't know why they are out, but I will call Friday and ask and I'll let you know..... Greg

Zero bullets does not make any .223 cal bullets..........I am sponsored by them and just wanted to let you know this, now I'm not trying to start anything be saying that but I have talked to ZERO today and once again was told they do not make any .223 cal 55gr FMJ bullets. Greg in VA

I did not know that Zero made .223 cal 55gr FMJ bullets, can you tell me where you got that info? Greg in VA

Brownells sells a part called the crane alignment tool. On all the revolvers I work on I start there, I make sure the crane is right, then I get the cylinder to run smooth, then I get the cylinder to run smooth in the gun. After I make sure the cylinder is right I move on to the other stuff. The tool comes with instructions on its use. Greg in VA

Before you go to any trouble like buying shims or turning the barrel out, check to see if the crane is bent. What you are describing sounds like the crane is bent and causing the cylinder to drag on just a few chambers and missing the others. Greg in VA

I used to shoot them in a SS with a single port comp, they would shoot better than anything else. I used AA #5 and it was always single digit numbers (sd) across the chronograph. Greg

Have you looked at the new ones from SureFire.......I believe they are about 10 bucks...or the newest ones from them that are Electronic and fit in the ear? Greg

Yes its suppost to be in their. I can remember when we would make our own and put inside the spring to create a hidden trigger stop for trigger over travel........... Greg

You can put a soldering gun tip in the screw and it will just heat the screw you are trying to loosen with out hurting any of the others. Greg in VA

I have several 1911's, I have a STI Trojan 5" in 9mm, excellent gun, I also have the Target Master in 9mm, excellent gun, I have a custom built Les Baer 6" in 9mm excellent gun......I would shoot what I have unitll I decided what I wanted.........Then remember, you will never be happy with anything you buy if you are settling for something that you don't want. Been their done that......... Greg in VA