HOGRIDER

slow: Thanks for sharing your details! I so have some 147g Acme and Bayous that are .356". Also have some Bayou 135g coated at .356". I think I'll load a few of the Acme and the Blues, and see what diameter the S2 prefers. I did notice that Blue offers their popular 9mm bullets in .355" AND .356"! Thanks again!

George: Thanks for your detailed explanation! Sure helping me to learn the aspects of reaming (or not)! Always a pleasure to read your posts!

slow: I forgot to ask.............what diameter bullets did your S2 prefer for consistency and accuracy? The .355" or .356"? Thanks!

slow: I could go to 1.125" with the Blue FPs, but I think I'll try a small ladder with them at 1.120" and see how they shoot and function. Thanks for your feedback!

IHAVE: I saw this also; and decided I'd contact Angus about barrel reaming. Thanks for your feedback!

two: Since I've never owned a pistol that needed the barrel reamed, I guess I'm a bit ignorant on the benefits of doing so. And since this is my first CZ, that I love to shoot, I thought I'd run the idea of reaming by Angus for his opinion. He replied: Guess I'll leave this barrel as is for the time being; but I appreciate your opinion and feedback! Thanks!

Everyone: I forgot to mention that the BB's I have are sized .355". Of course this sizing works perfect with the Zero 147 JHPs that makeup my match loads. However, when using a coated lead bullet, do the CZs normally prefer a .356" sizing or will the .355' Blue Bullets produce great results? Thanks again!

Nathan: Modifying this particular barrel is just not an option. I hope to find a suitable coated lead bullet that can use a COAL I can trust and get acceptable results with. Thanks for your feedback!

Mark! LOL! I'm really glad to hear that you have mastered the Dremel process to that level of perfection! Now I feel confident that with your new tools and level of OCD, you'll have that Redding TC die polished to perfection! Just don't forget to use a little One Shot on those super clean cases!

two: While I can fully appreciate you having your barrel reamed for that standard OAL range, I can no way justify modifying the barrel in my S2 Orange when it's producing groups like this with my reloads! These match reloads have an OAL of 1.125" and will work just fine in the S2O, and all my other 9mm pistols. I can go with an OAL of 1.120" with the BB 147g FP, and definitely look forward to your feedback! THANKS!

slow: One of my reasons for gathering some feedback here was so that I wouldn't be wasting a lot of time and consumables trying something that just may not work in the CZ! And I have no objections to trying some 135g rounds; just going down another rabbit hole and trying a weight/brand bullet that seems to be extremely popular with the USPSA crowd. As you and others have noted, the CZs require a shorter OAL; and what I found doing a thorough max OAL test was the BB 147RN maxxed out at 1.125" while the 147FP could go to 1.136". I always reduce my COAL by .015"; so basically I would do 1.120" on the FP and 1.110" on the RN. I just not warming up to the new RN profile............ Thanks for your feedback!!

Shooting Production with the S2 Orange, and have an excellent Match load using N320 and Zero 147 JHP. Would like to develop a practice load using the N320 and a lead coated bullet. Or a plated bullet ......though I have NO experience with them. Since The Blue Bullets is the #1 reloaded bullet in the 2020 USPSA Equipment Survey, I ordered a sample pack of the 147 FP and RN. Not really impressed with their new RN profile plus I would have to seat it .015" shorter to clear in the CZ barrel. And I have shot neither through the CZ; just don't want to waste time and precious components if the CZs don't like the BBs. Any SATISFIED shooters here competing and/or practicing with Blue Bullets in a CZ platform? Thanks for any feedback!

George, moto: Do you guys prefer a certain supplier's recoil springs for the CZ? CZ-USA/CZ Custom? CGW? Thanks!

moto: I appreciate your experienced feedback! And I understand your position on the importance of making sure I have a solid, proper grip! THANK YOU!

Sig: I think it will be well worth your effort. Looking forward to hearing your results. DirtBag: Sorry for high-jacking your thread..........

Hey Mark! Saw your post and wanted to share what fixed my Redding TC die that was having the same issues! Got this info from my friend at Redding: His reasoning on why they stick: After following his advise while being very cautious with the polishing, I eliminated 99% of the sticking from the TC die. I normally don't like or recommend having to work on expensive dies such as these, but a little bit of effort made a huge difference! Of course, I lube the cases with Hornady One Shot which I'm sure helps also. Hope this helps!

I went through something similar when a defective piece of brass (flash hole) slipped into my RL1100 and caused a stoppage at Station #3. I'm using the Redding Titanium Carbide sizing die. Decided to contact a friend at Redding, and he sent this info in an email: Definitely supports the great info from AHI!

George16: Thanks for your helpful information!

After following the previous post concerning which recoil spring for an S2 w/SRO, I wanted to see how the experienced competitors actually determined their optimal recoil spring weight. As a "renewed" USPSA Production competitor shooting my first CZ, a S2 Orange, I have been using a 10# CGW recoil spring with a 11.5# hammer spring. Have an exceptionally accurate reload using Zero 147g JHP, N320; and averaging 132-133 PF. In the previous post, it seemed most were using an 11# recoil spring! Wanting to optimize my sight recovery with the correct recoil spring, I'm wondering how those seasoned shooters determined their perfect spring weight? I realize grip/PF/etc can affect the ending spring weight; but is a video recording of the actual recoil of the pistol during, say a Bill Drill, the easiest way? Or would it be primarily determined by time/splits? Thanks for your feedback!

I would first strip the barrel and recoil spring assembly out of the slide, lube it well, and just cycle the slide on the frame back and forth to see if it's simply the tight, hand fitting of the slide to frame. If that doesn't identify the problem, then add in the barrel only and try again. Finally put the recoil spring assembly back together and see if there's any component binding. IMO, after experiencing the same thing with my new S2 Orange, you just need to shoot the gun! If it hangs going back into battery, just bump the back of the slide and fire again. Of course this is after well lubing the slide, frame, and barrel contact mating surfaces You will appreciate the tight fitment of the slide to frame once it wears in a bit! These are premium, hand fit pistols!

ezra: IIRC, I just used common 8" zip ties that probably came from Lowes.......zero issues as they've been on there over a year now!

Ties are working just fine on the RL1100!

mid: I think most of us using a S1050/RL1100 has fought with that priming system at one time of another! When mine is set up correctly, the silver block that attaches to the primer magazine is ~ 4" to the middle seam with the toolhead all the way down. (see pic) Also, as ddc has mentioned, the lever needs to be just off the bottom of the primer slide frame and as close to center as possible to the brass roller. (see pic) Hope all this helps!

Yes! New RN profile on the left! I have not tried either in the S2O, but my initial impression is I don't really care for the new profile..........

Some of this info might help............. https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl1100-product-videos.html